The Judsons, Best Ever Hosts

It's been way too long without sharing some thorough information about my host family, the Judsons. I've been focusing on my observations and adventures, but no adventure has been more meaningful than getting to know six incredible people, from little Isabelle to my host-parents, Nina and Simon. They have all welcomed me into their family, and it's amazing how comfortable we all are with each other after only six weeks. I spend my days playing soccer, teaching, coaching, and sometimes traveling, but I've spent more time with the Judsons than all of those combined. It's the bonds that I form with my family here that will last the longest.

Sebastian

I also regret that I do not have nearly enough photos of us as a family. I'm quick to pull out my camera and snap a picture of anything interesting I see, but I've yet to get a photo of all of us together. It's a work in progress--I promise to get plenty of pictures, and the minute I get a family photo I will put it up on the blog. 

It takes the whole group to function. If someone is having a bad day, all of us pitch in a little bit to try to help out. This is a new experience for me, and certainly a learning one. Though Miranda and Sam are younger than me, there isn't such a big age gap. Sam has always been able to stand up for himself and roll with the big kids. Here, I often wonder if the Judson kids see me exclusively as an older brother, or if the big age gap makes the relationship different. I know that I've acted as both a friend and a role model for the kids, though it's always the most fun when we get to play and good around. 

With Alexander and Isabelle

I'm sure each of them see me differently, too. Luke (9) is easy to relate to. He's a lot like I was when I was younger: focused, compe-titive, in love with all things sports, hates being late.  I've helped coach Luke in baseball on and off the field, and it's always good to debate sports with him. As I mentioned in another post, he's a sports encyclopedia, and I sometimes have to admit to myself when we're talking Bundesliga: yes, he does know more than me. His biggest passion, though, might be pop music--I wouldn't be shocked if he grew up to be a DJ.

Isabelle (2) is also easy to entertain; I can show her a picture, play a song on my iPhone, or simply lift her up in the air and swing her around a bit, and she breaks into giggles. With Izzy there are a lot of why? questions, and it often seems like she's already asking the next question before she hears the answer to her first one. Izzy is content with daily cuddling on the couch or observing me while I'm typing on my computer. The big dinner time question is always whether or not she wants me to sit next to her--but often that changes minute to minute.

Luke

Sebastian (7) and Alex (4) can be so easy and fun for hours and hours, but eventually one of them hits a breaking point. I've found many useful tricks to get Alex to at least smile when he's been scolded for doing something naughty. When the goofy faces, gentle poke in the stomach, or the "Guess what I did today Alex?!" methods don't work, then we know it's probably time for a nap or bed. He's still so young, but I'm surprised every day when he comes up with a thought or figures out a puzzle that seems far beyond his years. What's great about Alex is that I can be goofy with him 99% of the time, but he really does understand when I'm trying to be serious and teach him something.

Sebastian kind of lives in his own world, which at the present may or may not be interfering with the one in which the rest of us live. Sebastian fits both the goofy approach that I bring to Alex and the "big boy" attitude I take with Luke. I sometimes forget that he is only seven, because he loves mixing it up with me and testing the limits. My favorite thing I've done with Sebastian so far was teaching him all fifty states. I brought a map with the state quarters imbedded in it as a gift, and Sebastian took to it--first identifying Massachusetts and a few other states. Simon made it a goal for him to learn the names and locations of all fifty states, so for a solid two weeks we studied the map together. I found it took him a while when I asked "Where's Arizona?" but when I pointed to a state and asked for the name, he almost always knew it immediately. 

Izzy sleeping--she loves her milk!

I've learned so much from each of the kids, because I don't often interact with children their age. But often my favorite part of the day is coming home after a soccer practice and talking with Nina and Simon while I eat my dinner. They come from very different backgrounds, and a lot of the conversation centers around worldly issues and topics. Simon has been everywhere, though he is very true to his British origins. I love hearing his perspective as a European compared to Nina's an an American who is completely adapted to the European way of life. I offer a third perspective as an educated but inexperienced high school graduate, and I try to soak it all in.

I don't want to try to sum up the Judson family or make any overarching judgements on my time with them so far, because while I know them so well already, I experience something new every day. They have all opened my eyes in so many different ways that it's hard to say in a word everything that I've learned. I think the little details and interactions are the best, and I'll continue to write about the Judsons as long as I'm here. I cannot say thank you enough to them for being such wonderful hosts.

Oktoberfest (No, Not the One in Munich)

Kirdorf Village, marked by its two steeples at sunset

Oh, Kirdorf...

Kirdorf is the small, northwestern neighborhood of Bad Homburg. Nothing about the village jumps out at you, save perhaps the twin steeples. I was told in my first week that if I wanted to get home, look for the two steeples. Though Kirdorf isn't gorgeous or flashy, it definitely has its own identity--something that I've grown to appreciate. When I make my bike ride home from school during the week, I always feel a small sense of satisfaction when I climb the small rise and pass through the traffic light that brings me home to Kirdorf. 

I experience this sense of identity every time I play soccer at the DJK. Though my club is called DJK Bad Homburg, it's true home is Kirdorf. This past Saturday, I got a chance to feel the true unity of Kirdorf in the DJK's Oktoberfest celebration. 

First, a bit about Oktoberfest 

The name "Oktoberfest" (and I shouldn't have to translate it for you) applies to any autumn celebration in Germany. There is the world famous celebration, The Oktoberfest, held in Munich, but it's not like the rest of the country doesn't join in the festivities. Stuttgart holds a version of Oktoberfest called Cannstatter Volksfest, which attracts a cool 3.5 million visitors to place second biggest behind Munich. But it's not only the big cities that host Oktoberfest parties: the tiniest villages, including Kirdorf, can hold their own celebrations. And I don't think it's much of a stretch to say that no matter the size, these parties are fun. 

I may make my way to some of the larger festivals over the next couple weeks, but the Oktoberfest I attended at the DJK is and always will be my first. 

Oktoberfest at the DJK

Following my match on Saturday afternoon and postgame shower and pizza, I walked down to the DJK clubhouse (cabin, as they call it here). The club usually serves drinks and small meals on the weekends, but for this occasion a big (and heated) party tent had been set up--doubling the capacity for tables and benches. Oktoberfest streamers and banners hung from the walls, as well as the DJK's full repertoire of awards, plaques, and posters. You have to feel some respect for an athletic association that's been around for 125 years. The back room had been transformed into a buffet serving only the most traditional German foods, and the bar area was full stocked with large glassware and specialty Oktoberfest beer on tap.  The beer is some of the lighter stuff you find in Germany, but unlike cheap light beer in the US, it's delicious. I couldn't have celebrated my first Oktoberfest without having a liter (grosse) beer. I have to say, it does make you feel pretty powerful.

Many of my soccer friends from both my junior team and the men's team were in attendance, so we stuck together for most of the night. It was easy to slide between groups of people; simply hold up your beer and say "Prost!" and everyone smiles, touches glasses, and takes a sip. 

This wasn't a party for only the soccer players--far from it. Many of the local Kirdorfers made appearances--decked in typical Oktoberfest outfits. And the traditions didn't stop there. The music that carried on through the night was the same songs that one would hear in Munich--and they probably haven't changed in decades! Everyone knew at least the chorus to the songs; (I felt like I did, too, since it seemed the same five songs repeated over and over for four hours). Men, women, and children sung and chanted, and I particularly enjoyed a song that prompted one table group to stand on their chairs, lift the table in their left hands, and gulp beer with their rights in between the slurred verses. 

I have nothing spectacular to report about the venue or any impressive displays the club put on. This celebration was the essence of what Oktoberfest in German culture is all about. It was so simple but so much fun. I can understand why Oktoberfest has evolved into such a tradition, because above all, it is a gloriously entertaining time.

Soccer Manifesto, Part 3

Two very different teams, both a lot of fun...

I wrote Part 1 and Part 2 of the ongoing series "Soccer Manifesto" having just arrived in Germany. Then, I barely knew my training schedule, the names of my teammates, and exactly what to expect from the German brand of soccer. I still sometimes get that feeling of not knowing what to expect come training, but after over a month with two different squads through DJK Bad Homburg, I feel completely comfortable with my playing situation. Let me explain...

In any given week I have the opportunity to play soccer six times. Sundays are always an off day, and I split the others between my U18 team and the First Team. I can train all I like with the men, but since I'm not eighteen yet, I can't play games with them unless they want to pay a large amount for an exemption. I can hold my own with the men, but it would take a very special seventeen-year-old for the First Team to give him a jersey. 

Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays are with the men. I've found the coaching to be excellent--there's a lot of stress put on possession and style of play. We get anywhere from fifteen to thirty players at practice, depending on whether the coach wants to scrimmage full field or not. And we do scrimmage a lot. I've found myself playing center back for the second team, matched up against the quickest and most skilled strikers in the club. They've started to let me go forward on corners, too, after I hit the crossbar with a header. When we're not scrimmaging, most of the drills involve agility, technique, and shooting. It's almost a given that there will be some type of finishing drill every training session. A fitness coach comes on Wednesdays, too, so for the first half of those practices, we spend little time with the ball and a lot of time out of breath. 

On my other team--the one I'm allowed to play games with--there have been a lot of ups and downs. The initial coach had to part ways with the team two weeks in, and now our new trainer is just settling in and getting a feel for the players. Our new coach Mark is an incredibly nice person. He's a teacher, and he definitely takes that mindset onto the pitch. Practices are usually very good and never too difficult. Still, it feels very much like a high school team, while playing with the men is college level. The team is small, so sometimes there are only ten or twelve guys who show up to training. If everyone came we would have around eighteen, but so far there hasn't been a practice or match when someone wasn't missing. This I don't mind too much; in an ideal world everyone would be committed to the team, but then I might not have quite as much flexibility to travel. Most of my teammates work or are enrolled in apprenticeships, which can get in the way of training. I definitely see a different side of German society than the wealthy kids whom I teach. 

There are a couple guys that speak good English and who have reached out to me. Though I haven't gone to hang out with any of them too much, I would definitely call them my friends. Leo and Luca are probably my closest friends on the team--both really nice guys who love the game of soccer. 

Games have been up and down as well. We're probably in the middle of the pack in our league, but we've faced two of the strongest teams already. They put up big numbers on us, but we turned it around last week and won 6-1. We went to what seemed the middle of nowhere for the game, though they did have a nice turf field carved our of the forest. Now I know how the Albany kids feel when they come to Williamstown for game against our Ajax team. Since I play center back, I don't get a chance to score too many goals, but in that game I did manage a nice lefty strike for my first goal of the season. 

It's not really a group that's fond of taking photos, so I don't have any pictures of the team yet. I've had fun so far, it's a great group of guys, and I think we're heading in the right direction with the new coach.  Nothing is better than playing soccer every day, and no matter how my day goes, I always have a training session or game to look forward to in the evening.

Hopefully it won't be too long until I add a new piece to my soccer manifesto.

Two Kinds of Football

A Weekend of Sports Viewing in Hannover and Gottingen 

It's always nice to have a weekend with absolutely no commitments, but it's even better in Europe. The travel options are endless, and I have a bucket list of destinations that I need to start crossing off. 

This past weekend I made plans with my Dudley friends Lukas Ebeler and Moritz Dehl to meet up in Hannover. I consider Hannover my home city in Germany, because in 2009 I spent three weeks there through Camp Dudley's exchange program with German YMCA Camp Abbensen. At the German camp I made so many friends, many of whom have attended Dudley through the exchange as well. It seems Lukas has visited Dudley more than any German. I remember him leading one of my canoe trips when I was thirteen; that was one of the hardest trips I've ever been on. 

Before I talk about the visit, I want to mention how much I love having a rail pass. I purchased my multi-country Eurail pass back in July, but the trip to Hannover was my first chance to use it. Basically I can ride anywhere I want within the selected countries. The pass is based on traveling days, too; on each one of the traveling days, I can take as many trips as I need or want. On Saturday's ICE train from Frankfurt to Hannover, I sat down in first class by mistake. Since they often don't check tickets for much of the train ride, I enjoyed an hour or so of first class comfort before being told I was in the wrong compartment. (Maybe I'll do that every train ride). 

Hannover

The city was buzzing when I arrived. Moritz met me at the train station, and for a few hours he took me on a tour of the inner city. I remembered a lot from 2009, but it was really neat seeing the streets, shops, and buildings again. We stopped for a lunch of Doner and walked over to the Hannover 96 Football Club fan shop where I bought a shirt. Everyone was sporting 96 gear, so I had to try to fit in. Plus, I'd grown out of my shirt that I bought in 2009. 

Hannover 96 v Werder Bremen

AWD-Arena was packed on Saturday with 50,000 passionate fans

An hour and a half before the game agains rival Werder Bremen, Moritz and I made our way to the Nordkurve Bier Garten. Only two-hundred yards from the stadium, we could see the masses of people flooding in. Nordkurve is the section of the arena that seats the supporter clubs, and the beer garden also hosted some crazy fans. 

We found seats at one of the eighty or so red tables, ordered a couple Weissbiers, and waited for the game to begin. It was a great time for people spec-tating--all shapes and sizes of Hannoverians were out in support of their club. The tables and benches were packed well before the game, but that wasn't most interesting. About twenty minutes before kickoff, many fans left the beer garden and moved towards the stadium. I guess it's cheaper to drink beer outside the stadium than it is inside. Within minutes many had left to find their seats, but they were replaced at the Nordkurve with a new crowd of supporters. These people obviously didn't have tickets for the game, and their arriving time fit immaculately with the other group's departure. So as the whistle blew for kickoff, the beer garden was again packed with well over a thousand fans, all staring up at the big screen.

The pictures don't do do the number of fans at the Nordkurve justice;
the ring around the tables was up to ten people deep.

The rivalry bout turned out to be incredible. Hannover scored four minutes in off a free kick. We were so close to the stadium that we heard the cheers for the goal before we saw it on the screen. Moritz and I found ourselves getting high fives and hugs from anyone and everyone sitting near us. Then Hannover scored again, and ten minutes in, it looked like the game was over.  But Bremen earned a PK towards the end of the first half, making it 2-1. The visitors thoroughly dominated the second half and scored the tying goal with fifteen minutes remaining. The cheers from all around us had turned to groans. Twice when the score was tied did Bremen have goals called back because of offsides, and from what I could see, either could've been counted. Hannover was now hanging on for a draw. The crowd grew restless; they did not want a tie against their rivals at home. Then, in the 93rd minute, in one of the most thrilling thirty seconds of my life, Hannover stole the ball, played it up to the left flank, and served it in to striker Szablocs Huszti who a spectacular bicycle kick goal. (Click here for the highlights, go to 1:20 for the epic goal). The only time I remember going that crazy for a goal was Donovan's stoppage time goal in the 2010 World Cup, but then, I was not in the middle of a huge crowd of fans or right next door to the stadium. People were standing on tables, showering beer, and hugging anyone they could get their hands on. 

I hope that it won't be long until I make it into the stadium for a Bundesliga match, but that day in Hannover was a pretty awesome introduction to the world of German professional soccer. 

Other Notes on Hannover

The city was still celebrating the victory late into the night, and Lukas, Moritz, and I joined in some of the festivities. Hannover at night isn't loud or unsafe, but people were definitely enjoying themselves after the successful day for their club. 

I stayed with Lukas, and the next morning we managed to find an open bakery (nearly everything is closed on Sundays) and got chocolate croissants. 

That afternoon I sat through a field hockey game, which was the first time I'd ever watched the sport. I'm sure like all sports it can be entertaining when played at a high level, but Lukas's team was so far superior to the opponent that it was hard for me to be excited. 

Shortly after the game it was back to the station where we boarded a slow train heading south to Gottingen, where Lukas goes to university.

Gottingen

It was straight to a friend's apartment from the Gottingen train station, because we had a different type of football to watch. For non-Americans, Lukas and his friends were well versed in the NFL. Here, ESPN America has one game in each time slot, and a German network covers another game. Everyone agreed that the German announcers were awful, so we watched the Eagles-Ravens, which kicked off at 7 PM. I also streamed the Pats game to my laptop, which was a bad decision since I suffered through Tom Brady 3-and-outs and an awful field goal miss. Still, watching football is always fun, and though the Chinese food we ordered was average at best, I really did enjoyed myself.

The next game slated for ESPN America was Jets-Steelers, a 10:15 kickoff. There's a reason I named my Fantasy Football team the Sunday All-Nighters, because we watched straight through the end of the fairly boring game. Lukas and I then said goodbye to his friends, walked twenty minutes back to his flat, and turned on the pre-game for the late 49ers-Lions game. I made it through the first quarter, finally falling asleep at a cool 3:30. 

Gottingen is perhaps the truest university city in Germany. 25,000 of the city's 100,000 residents are students, and another 10,000 or so work for the school. Every building from the oldest, elaborate houses to the new apartment buildings house students. Though I didn't get too much of a chance to explore the old part of the city and walk the pedestrian-only streets, I can tell that it's a nice place to go to school. It's no private American college--no German university is--but it's a great place for education.

Wrapping Up 

It was great to see my see my friends and to spend a few nights in different places. The highlight of the trip was definitely witnessing the Hannover 96 victory, but each day held something different and special. I'm sure this won't be the last time I meet up with Lukas, as we've already begun scheming travel plans for the upcoming weeks. I've got a lot of great trips lined up, ones that I've been dreaming about for months. We'll see where the European transportation network takes me; like I said before, the possibilities are endless.

LOVES & Hates, Part I

First, an update on how I am doing, and what I am feeling...

As of Thursday I have been here for four weeks, and in only a few days it will be a whole month. Adapting to Germany hasn't been without difficulties, but what an amazing time it's been. I couldn't have hoped for a better introduction, and now I feel completely comfortable in my family, my soccer program, and my school. Plus, traveling is a breeze. As I move forward I plan on taking fewer day trips and more long journeys. I am settled in, and now it's time for me to start utilizing every opportunity. I don't ever want to say "no." 

So far in this blog I've made a lot of observations about Germany, but I've been doing plenty more than watching from a distance. My best memories so far are those moments when I am the most involved--when I feel the most alive. It doesn't matter where I am in the world; those time will always make the biggest impression. It could be an intense soccer practice or a family dinner when all seven of us are sitting and eating at the same time. Those descriptions don't have anything to do with Germany, but to me, they mean the most. I want to start sharing more details about the relationships that have been so important to me so far, so expect those in coming posts. 

LOVES & Hates, Four Weeks In

For now, I want to have a little fun and share insight into those things, big and small, that I have liked and disliked about Germany so far. Trust me, I could write pages about what I love (that's the reason it's all caps in the title), and the "hates" will seem trivial. This is a running list to which I'll add as I experience more and more. By December I am going to have a long list of "LOVES" that will be tough to leave. So here we go... enjoy. 

LOVES

These are not necessarily the things I love to do the most, as those have been covered in other posts. Instead, I want to list the differences I've discovered and enjoyed the most in the lifestyle. In no particular order...

Parking Problems

• Biking Anywhere & Everywhere - Bad Homburg may have as many people in it as Pittsfield, but German cities are built a little differently. It's so easy for me to hop on my bike and get where I need to go. The two sports venues are three minute rides, two minutes for the nearest bakery, five for the grocery store, and only twenty to the other side of town where I teach. It's easy, sensible, and not a terrible thing to work up a bit of a sweat in the mornings. 
• The Cheese - Cheese is a major staple of German cuisine, and its not the classic American or Cheddar, either. We probably have eight different types of cheese in the refrigerator right now, my favorite being a Spanish Manchego that definitely cracks the top five on my all-time best cheese list. Goats cheese is also very popular, which is just fine by me.
• Recycling - Eventually I am going to focus a whole post on the recycling system here, because it is so much more advanced than in America. Nearly everything has a place that isn't the garbage can, and the system works so well that we spend less time dealing with it here than all of the trash back home.
• Fresh Bread & Pastries - Germans expect freshness and quality in their bread, and it's no surprise that town and cities have developed with bakeries lining nearly every street. And you don't buy a loaf of sandwich bread for the whole week; no, German housewives are expected to get the homemade bread and rolls everyday. In my home it's a little different, but there's still always a variety of fresh options to choose from. I enjoy stopping at any of the bakeries to grab a pastry, and even better, everything is half off in the last hour before closing.
• The German Hello - I'm not talking about speaking "guten tag" or "hallo" when meeting someone, I'm talking about the sports team greetings. Before setting down your bag or taking off your shoes, it's expected that you walk around the room or circle of players and shake hands with everyone, saying hello as the bare minimum. There isn't much joking, and it doesn't ever take long; it's just a nice way to arrive when participating in a group activity. 
• Sandwiches Any Time in the Day - I credit Hank Barrett for really getting me hooked on the craft of making delicious sandwiches. Even before arriving I considered myself a pretty decent sandwich chef. Well, I've certainly had the chance to practice my skill, as sandwiches are an acceptable meal, snack, dessert, anything. In addition to the freshness and variety of the breads, rolls, and cheeses as mentioned, the meat possibilites are right in my wheelhouse. I find myself throwing together a sandwich at random times in the day because it's easy and most often delicious. 
• Windows & Shades - German's are fond of their own craftsmanship, and when it comes to most things "Made in Germany," there's a tremendous amount of precision and skill involved. All of the houses are built well, and some of my favorite features are the windows and shades. Windows can be locked, opened like a swinging door, or cracked slightly--all based on the position of the handle. Shades go on the outside of houses, they are made of study wood panels, and can be lowered from the inside. They are crafted so that even at high noon a room can become pitch black. 
• History in the Air - I absolutely love United States history, but if it's an age competition, Europe wins every time. Some things feel old; the don't have to stand out or be impressive, they just seem a little special. I walk by a wall each time I help at school, and it has a small plaque that says it was built in the fifteenth century. It's just a wall in a small neighborhood of the city, and I'm sure most people in Bad Homburg don't even know about it. Still, it's been standing since before Europeans even knew about the Americas.
• The Weather - If you look down the page you'll see that I have "The Weather" listed under my "Hates" list as well. So, here's why I like it: I arrived in a heat wave that gradually cooled to an absolutely stunning two weeks of end-of-summer warmth. Every day that I traveled was perfect--cool in the morning, warming up to a glorious day. You'll read the down side to the weather later. 

Hates

It's not a long list. Sure there are things that annoy me and things I wish were slightly different, but those don't merit mentioning. Again, in no particular order...

• The Turf Fields - It's hard to complain about turf fields in a country when come November the grass will be unplayable, but I'm not a fan of turf quality here. Most fields seem better for field hockey than soccer, and even the soccer specific fields have short, sparse grass and too much rubber. Even with turf shoes it gets pretty slippery.
• Bubbly Water - One of the most disappointing things that can happen to an athlete coming from America is getting stuck with only bubbly water to drink. It's possible to get normal, bottled water, but for the most part the German athletes prefer the big glass bottles of bubbly water for hydration. Trying to quench thirst with that stuff is nearly impossible.
• The Weather - While I've had excellent weather so far, the way people talk about the climate here makes me think that it could start hailing tomorrow and never stop. I'm going to have to deal with my fair share of rain, and the winter season is slushy and gross. Damp cold is the worst, so I'm crossing my fingers for sun as the days begin to get shorter. 

I suspend my lists for now, knowing that by the end of the day I will think of more items, at least for the  LOVE portion. Expect at least a few more posts adding to my LOVES & Hates lists.

Glad I Don't Have To Live Without It

It's no secret that we live in an incredibly globalized world. There are the positives and negatives that stem from being connected nearly every moment, but I'm not going to talk about that now. For me, the advances in communication have been a nice change. I remember the summer of 2009, barely three years ago, when I spent a month in Germany through Camp Dudley's exchange program. Then, if I wanted to call home, I had to find a pay-phone, enter multiple codes and extensions, and finally dial the number. The system worked, but it seems ancient now, when I can pick up my iPhone and FaceTime or iMessage nearly anyone free of charge. The world is shrinking to the size of the smartphone in the palm of your hand.

I introduce my post in this way because even though I am thousands of miles away, I don't feel far from home. For fun, I want to share a few things I enjoy from back that I've been pleasantly surprised to find here in Germany.

• Subway Sandwiches - While McDonalds is far and away the most popular American fastfood chain here in Germany, it's the lone Subway in Bad Homburg that was fun for me to discover. I'm playing soccer a lot, and because I'm often preparing for practices and games, my thoughts often drift back to my days at Mt. Greylock. It's actually not the soccer but the basketball I remember; for every long road trip we were treated to Subway sandwiches and homemade cookies during the bus ride home. Subway also makes a great pre-game meal, so it's been fun having the quick-stop sandwich shop in town. 
• Snyder's Pretzel Pieces - These honey mustard and onion flavored nuggets of goodness were the only reason I made it through AP exams, so when I saw them featured in the local Rewe grocery store, I had to throw a bag in the basket. I savored the bag, though I've yet to go back for more, namely because they only sell small sizes for disproportionately high prices. But no matter the price, they're still my favorite (unhealthy) snack. 
• Aunt Ina's Relish - If you've noticed a food theme here, well, good for you. I haven't made my final decision on whether I like German food more than American, but in the meantime I've enjoyed trying just about anything. Still, I've missed nothing more than my mom's and grandmother's home cooking; Sunday nights here aren't quite the same as the family dinners at the Storey's in Williamstown. I brought a jar of the Storey specialty homemade Aunt Ina's relish as one of my gifts, but it seems that the Judsons aren't quite as keen about it as I am. They've  all tried it and said they liked it, but I'm the only one who digs it out of the back of the fridge every once in a while to put it on a sandwich.
• The NFL & Fantasy Football - These are a slight exception to the rules of my list, as I am really the only one I know of who spent this past Sunday night in front of my computer from 7 PM to 1 AM watching low-quality streaming of the Patriots and other NFL teams. At the same time I watched my Fantasy Football team's stat-tracker--following each of my players as they racked up points. It's amazing what you can do with a computer, but what I find even better is that I can watch the Patriots at the same time as my brother back home and message him throughout the game about the plays and our observations. Sports connect us in more ways than we know.
• The BS Report - I wrote about this in a previous post, but one of the highlights of my day is waking up with a twenty minute bike ride to school while listening to my favorite podcast, the BS Report. I've been able to stay in tune with American sports (it's exciting to follow the Patriots right now, not so much for the Red Sox) and put my time on the bike to good use. 

 

Despite the American products that have infiltrated the German market, consumerism here is very different than back home. I am a strong believer that being immersed in a new culture means doing it their way. If the Germans can live without it, so can I. Trying new things is and will be one of the highlights of this trip for me. I have already discovered a few German products and aspects of the lifestyle that I want to have back home. When I leave in December, I know I will leave behind so many favorites that are uniquely specific to living in Germany.

In my next post I'll turn this topic around and share my Love/Hate list of German products, customs, and expectations. 

Heidelberg: Good Sights, Good Conversations

More than one person told me that Heidelberg is a must-see destination, and so, seeing the beautiful forecast for Friday, I prepared for my day trip. The expectations were high--the city is one of the most popular tourist stops in Germany. With that comes a positive and a negative: a high potential that I would run into crowds, but also a good chance that the city would be easy to navigate. So, when I borded the EC train heading south, I was pleased to see plenty of open seats. 

A little history: Heidelberg is home to the oldest university in Germany, which is located at the center of the Altstadt, or Old Town. Throughout the narrow cobblestone streets and baroque architecture, there is an international feel that comes from the diverse student body and sheer number of tourists. The city sits between two small mountains and on both sides of the Nectar River. Perched 300 feet up on the Konigsstuhl mountain is the Schloss, or Heidelberg Castle. Partly destroyed, the massive ruins loom over the Old Town.

The sun emerging from behind the massive castle

My train arrived on time to the Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof, and I quickly set out west. It's an easy bus ride from the train station to the center of the Old Town; from there, a short but steep hike takes you straight to the castle. Each step offers a better view of the city. Weaving between high stone walls and under low archways, I reached the tiny ticket office. Three euros for a student (I used my Williams rec. pass since I don't have anything from Middlebury yet) and I on my way, again heading upwards.

The pictures do a lot of the explaining, but at each turn I anticipated the next sight to see. From the extravagant (and most likely restored) statues to the gigantic ruins of towers and walls, I was more than impressed by the entire experience of discovering the castle for myself. Not to say I was the only one there; the grounds were packed with (mostly) American and Asian travelers. Still, as I wandered from sight to sight, occasionally stopping to eavesdrop on a tour group, I felt that sense of amazement that's sometimes difficult to find. Maybe that's the reason I wanted to come to Europe so badly.

The main wall of the front of the castle

The massive scale of the partly ruined courtyard

The view from the top of the castle, looking down upon the
Old Town and Nectar River, between the two mountains

The Heidelberg Tun--the biggest wine barrel in the world

The intricate designs found on the inside of the courtyard

On Friday, the sky in Heidelberg was one of the bluest I've ever seen

My morning at the Heidelberg Castle was well worth the early start. I tried to take in everything that the historic fortress had to offer; while this may be the case, I wouldn't be surprised if I end up returning in the coming months. I say this partly because I feel I barely scratched the surface on the rest of Heidelberg. Even though it feels touristy, there is so much to be explored. I couldn't possible have done it in one day.

Descending from the castle heights, I formulated my agenda in my head: first, find lunch (preferably not at a MacDonalds, Burger King, or German chain bakery); second, buy new shoes (I needed a Euro-style sneaker classy enough to wear when I teach and when I travel, but comfy enough for a lot of walking); and third, make sure I make it to the train station by 2:30 to catch my ride back to Bad Homburg.  If I had extra time, I would walk around and see what's worth a look.

In the heart of the Old Town is a street called Hauptstrasse--one mile long, pedestrians only. The area is definitely geared towards tourists and students, as the two most common types of stores are pubs and souvenir shops. I wandered down a busy side street lined with restaurants, and found Vetter's Brauhaus. It looked like a popular stop, and the outdoor seating was perfect for the beautiful day. I sat down and flipped through the menu. The menu advertised the beer much more than the food, but they had bratwurst and schnitzel so I decided to go for it. Using my limited German language skills I read that one of the beers once held a record for being the strongest in the world.

Within a minute of my sitting down, two men and a woman took the table next to me. One of them had a Boston Red Sox shirt on, so I introduced myself and asked if they were from my home state. Jeff, the one with the Sox shirt, lived outside Boston, and the other couple had lived and worked in Germany for twenty odd years before moving to Charleston, SC for early retirement. Working for the military has its perks, as Mark said. (Heidelberg is home to one of the larger American posts in Germany). It was no time before they invited me to sit with them--they wanted to hear how I ended up in Germany and what my plans were for the road ahead. I talked while they consumed a large quantity of beer (not the strong stuff, though!). Jeff and Mark were both IT guys, and while neither of them they loved their job, they said it's a field where a smart person with a little training really go places. Also, they said that working overseas for the government can be a great career--Mark made a lot of money in Germany and the government paid for his house. Most of the ex-Pats that I've met so far have some connection to the government. Marty, who gave me a ride home from Heidelberg, also works in the military base, but I'll get to that later. As the US gears up for a crucial election, I've seen the extent of our interactions overseas. It's amazing how far we extend our influence (and our spending), especially in the military.

I enjoyed eating and talking with the three Americans (they even paid for my beer), and it was great to hear their perspectives. For me, that's partly what traveling is about--meeting people and hearing different perspectives.

After the long lunch, I walked down the Hauptstrasse searching for a shoe store while making my way back towards the train station. Soon I found a pair of Adidas that fit what I was looking for, and I wanted to wear them right away but decided against it.

I found a bus heading east and by 2:20 I was at my pick up spot. Marty, Luke's baseball coach and whom I've been helping since I've been here, had told me earlier that if I ever wanted a ride to or from Heidelberg, he'd be happy to help me out. At baseball the night before I told Marty I was heading down for a day trip, and although I said no to a ride down at 6 AM, the return fit in just fine. Right on schedule, Marty pulled up in front of the MacDonald's next to the train station, and we were on our way home. Currently, the Lufthansa Airline workers are on strike, which made us worried about the traffic, but it wasn't unbearable. (My family, however, who drove to Switzerland on Friday afternoon while I stayed to play soccer, didn't fare so well. The four hour ride turned into seven, as everyone in the state of Baden-Wurttenberg to the south of us seemed to be traveling on their last weekend of summer vacation. The states in northern Germany start school much earlier than those in the south.)

Marty talked a lot about his job as an environmental consultant for the Army. For a while he's been helping the American soldiers and families at the Heidelberg base "catch up" to the Germans in terms of recycling. I will probably write a whole post about recycling in Germany, but basically the country has 80 million people living in an area the size of Montana, so there's no room for land fills. Everything gets reused, recycled, or composted; the small amount of trash gets burned, with the heat being used to produce energy. The country is known for efficiency, and that has certainly been clear to me so far. So, Marty put in a system to help the American military families understand and implement large scale recycling, and now the Heidelberg base is a model for the other bases around Germany.

I was home by late afternoon--the thoughts and images from the day still swirling through my head. From now on I hope to start traveling further from Bad Homburg--the day trips becoming weekend getaways. As for now, I'm content with my day in Heidelberg, and I would return to the city in a heartbeat.

Click here to see all of my pictures from Heidelberg

Laternenfest

My Introduction to German Festivals

There's never a bad time to experience German culture, but I am here for what is casually referred to as the "fest season." Though summer vacation is over, the German people love to celebrate the waning warm days as they transition towards the colder months. For about six weeks beginning in mid-September and running through October, fest season takes over the country. All of the schools shut down for at least two weeks some time during this stretch; whether or not people head to Munich for the Oktoberfest, there are festivals to be enjoyed in nearly every city and town. 

This float signifies Laternenfest--literally, "Lantern Festival"

Bad Homburg gets an early start on the celebrations with Laternenfest--a four-day party that is unique to the city. It's a homecoming of sorts, and the people traffic over the past week has been barely tolerable. Literally, it's the "Lantern Festival." Beginning in the post war decades, Bad Homburg shops and restaurants hung lanterns outside their buildings when the evenings became darker to alert customers that they were open. Soon the tradition evolved into a festival, and now it's the city's biggest event of the year. 

The pedestrian-only Louisenstrasse fills up quickly each night

I enjoyed each of the four days differently, trying to get the full picture of this unique event. On Friday I spend a late evening at the center of the party with a few of my soccer teammates. Yes, Germany loves its beer, and yes, the drinking age is sixteen. And just like everything else, I am trying to handle it maturely. So far, German beer has lived up to the hype. The photo to the left was taken in one of the main festival areas; by sunset it was packed with people young and old--all having a good time. One item to note: all of the beer vendors charge as much or more for the bottle or glass than the alcohol. When you finish, you can return the glass and get your money back. This system goes great lengths to keep the streets clean and prevent broken glass.

Bad Homburg claims to be home to the oldest golf course in continental
Europe; while that may be true, the course is only a 6-hole par-3 layout. 

Saturday was the night of the parade. Every club and organization in Bad Homburg prepared a float, and as I ate dinner in a local pizzeria, I could see every float and marching band heading out to the edge of town to line up. It turned out that the parade began at the fire station only a block up the road from my house, so as darkness fell we lined up with the neighbors at the end of the driveway and watched the procession. The town is celebrating the hundredth year of the royal spa, so each float displayed a bit of history. Some of the floats had musicians performing, which reminded me of playing trumpet in the Westport, NY Fourth of July parade. Representing Camp Dudley in that event is always fun, but for an overall spectacle I would choose this one any day of the week.

The festival also features a typical fairground with rides and games

Sunday, Simon and I took Sebastian and Alex (the two middle children) to the fairgrounds. I remembered back to my 2009 summer in Germany when I went to the Hannover Schutzenfest; that fair had been spectacular, so I had high expectations for the one at Laternenfest. Everything at this fair was cool, and I loved the slight disregard for safety in order to cram more people onto the rides. Even with the huge crowds, we never stood in line for more than five minutes. And you can't beat a few rounds of bumper cars.

Laternenfest was capped off with a second parade and a firework show on Monday night. This procession was less flashy; a small crew of drummers leading a dozen men with torches. Behind them, all of the young kids in the district and their parents ambled along, chatting and trying not to lose one another. The students all had lanterns that they'd designed at school, and the glowing lights speckled the crowd. The parade meandered through the park and down one of the main roads before reaching the open field where the fireworks would occur. Around 9:30 the light show kicked off. The fireworks were orchestrated to fit the songs coming from the loudspeakers--everything from the German pop group Toten Hosen to U2. I was impressed, and the show left me very satisfied with my first German festival. I know that they will get bigger, but I'll remember Laternenfest for a long time. 

Click here to see all of my photos from Laternenfest

My New Career as a Gym Teacher

Volunteering at the Accadis International School

A completely irrelevant, somewhat interesting panorama I took in Mainz

This past week I added a new element to my weekly schedule, something that I had planned but about which knew few details. In the spring I contacted the Accadis International School with a reference from my host family, saying that I was looking to volunteer. From being a big brother to working as a counselor at Camp Dudley, I know I have part of that teacher gene in me. It seemed working with kids would be a fun way to fill up some of my time. They were excited about my interest in helping out, and by June we had a meeting scheduled for shortly after my arrival. Still, I did not know what to expect. 

When I interviewed, I was told that they needed the most help in the physical education classes. Initially, I didn't know how to feel. My gym classes were often the highlight of my school day at Mt. Greylock, but I didn't know how the Germans operated P.E. And, I would be working with kids ages five to thirteen--slightly different than my coaching and Dudley experience. I had helped as a Student Teacher last year in Greylock's Middle School, but then I had known what I was signing up for.

I anticipated my first day--meeting Mr. Cormier and the students and getting a feel for the place. Accadis is bike-able from my house; after twenty minutes of the cool morning air hitting my face, I felt fully awake and ready for the day. (On a side note, the bike rides have been a great opportunity to catch up on my favorite podcast--"The BS Report." I try to catch most of what Bill Simmons has to say, and even though I won't be watching too much American sports while I'm here, I still want to stay connected. Plus, Fantasy Football is upon us.) 

The Old Sports Hall

At 8:15 I stepped into a nearly brand new and very cheerful school building. I said hello to Ms. Gunold, with whom I had interviewed the week before, and she walked me to the teachers' lounge where I met Mr. Cormier. To the kids, he is Mr. C. I was glad when he quickly established that we would be on a first-name basis, because there always will be only one Mr. C in my life.

So, a little bit about Darrell Cormier: he grew up in Toronto speaking French and English, and then went off on a baseball scholarship to the University of Oklahoma. From there he moved to Kansas to get a degree in physical education, meeting his future wife along the way. She is German, and when she returned home to the Frankfurt area Darrell found a job at Accadis. As he learned German, he said, he lost French. In the States he trained for and completed a half-Ironman, but now he has a dog and a six-week-old baby girl to keep him busy.

I knew immediately that we would get along and that it would be easy to work together. Right away, he told me that I should take as much time as I need observing and getting comfortable with the kids; once I know the routine, however, he wants to challenge me to plan and teach some of the classes. My routine goes as follows: teaching three days a week, with three classes on Tuesday, three on Wednesday, and four on Thursday. Since the school is still building a sports hall for themselves, we have to walk about fifteen minutes with each class to one of two gyms. The new gym is spacious and well lit, while I don't think I'm wrong in saying that the old gym (pictured above) is over a hundred years old. Darrell said that the one thing he didn't practice in his graduate program was entertaining a whole class while the students walk.

After three days, I know that my decision to commit to Accadis is a good one. It seems that every teacher has made a point to introduce themselves to me. They want to hear my story of how I've ended up in Germany for this fall. I think this genuine interest stems from their own experiences. Accadis being an international, bilingual school brings a unique group of faculty together. More than half did not grow up in Germany, and very few are Bad Homburg locals. There's a definite energy created by the (mostly) young and passionate teachers. I've enjoyed hearing their stories--how they came to teach at Accadis and what their perspectives are on German society and culture.

Working with kids is never bad, either. It's interesting trying to figure out the dynamics of each class (20-30 kids per grade). Darrell is incredibly observant and knows the kids really well. Countless times he's pointed out a situation to me and talked it through as it's occurring. With each I learn a little bit about the students. I'll be working more with the older grades, fourth through seventh, which fits well with my Camp Dudley experience. I figure that when I know all of their names, I'll be ready to step in and begin teaching classes. And it's going to be everything from soccer drills to the "Whoosh" game. I could write a whole post about the "Whoosh" game--I might be able to fit that in somewhere.

Helping out with elementary school gym class doesn't seem all that earth-shattering, but so far I love my situation at Accadis; I know that I'll be able to take a lot away from it.