Scotland Trip, Part Three: North Berwick Golf Club

I thought, after my gloriously entertaining round at Gullane, that I knew what to expect heading to North Berwick. After finishing my round, however, I believe it is impossible for anyone to truly understand links golf without playing North Berwick. Let me explain, starting from the beginning.

North Berwick Golf Club

I found grey skies, cool air, and a stiff breeze when I arrived in the lovely town of North Berwick--a thirty-minute train ride east of Edinburgh. The town descends towards the sea from the base of North Berwick Law. This conical hill is not tall but is visible from almost anywhere in the town and on the golf course. As I made my way towards the coast, I could see Bass Rock looming far out in the cold  ocean waters. 

Looking back towards the town, the clubhouse on the right, and North Berwick Law

I was not as jittery about arriving at the course as the previous day, though I knew I was in for an even bigger treat. When I rounded the bend and finally saw the course, I was a little surprised. Was this St. Andrews? Just like the famed Old Course, the first and eighteenth holes at North Berwick share an immense fairway, and the eighteenth green sits directly in front of the clubhouse and very near the streets. It will be easy to see the comparison when I write about St. Andrews in Part Four.

I took in the views--the coastal town visible in its full splendor to my right, and the rocky islands sitting off shore in front of me. To my left, the first and eighteenth holes running parellel before the course veers left and out of town. It seemed the most innately perfect place for a golf course--I can see why the grounds have been used for this very purpose for so many years.

I received a warm introduction and shared a few words with the man stationed in the clubhouse. He was there for that very purpose: to brief the visitors on the club's rules and make them feel welcomed. I certainly did, and I'm sure he enjoyed talking to a high school graduate rather than a retiree. 

Dunes, beach, rocks, ocean--golf on Scotland's coast

In the small starter's house, I found myself standing in line next to two Americans. Not wanting to play alone, I asked the starter if there were any groups I could join. Before he could answer, one of the guys in line jumped in and invited me to pair up with his twosome. He was named Scott, and he introduced me to his long time golfing buddy Tony. They were in their mid-fifties, huge golfers back home in New Mexico, and big fans of playing in Scotland. Both had played in the British Isles before, but on their current trip they were hitting many of the big name courses.

After a few putts and a gear check to make sure all of my extremities were covered, I joined Tony and Scott on the first tee. A tame first shot--"Hit it 175 yards and no farther," the starter told us--and we were off.

North Berwick West Links

It's not every day that one plays the third oldest course in the world. The West Links at North Berwick has housed the game of golf since 1832. The course, carved out of the dunes by Mother Nature and decades of foot traffic well over a century ago, plays parellel to the ocean on nearly every hole. Because the course was discovered rather than built, many of the holes possess a certain quirkiness that cannot be constructed on modern courses. It's impossible to find a bad course with strong par fours, and North Berwick's par fours were the best collection I've ever played. Each hole was unique, making the journey along the ocean and between the dunes a true golfing adventure.

Holes to Note

2nd Hole - "Sea" - Par 4 - 429 Yards

The ocean views hit you from the first tee and continue throughout the round, but no hole plays closer to the beach than the second. A "cape" style hole, the dogleg challenges the golfer to bit off as much of the beach as possible. It shows that risk-reward golf has been at the heart of course design since the game began. 

Cut off as much as you like on the drive over the beach on Hole #2

The fairway undulates and plays through waves of dunes. Unlike most of the fairways at Gullane, at North Berwick and especially the second hole, a flat lie is hard to find. 

Incredible fairway undulations; typical at links courses but very prevalent at North Berwick

11th Hole - "Bos'ns Locker" - Par 5 - 546 Yards

One of only three par fives (which coincidentally are holes 8, 9, and 11), this slight dogleg left plays close to the ocean. The views from the elevated tee box are incredible, as the golfer has just made the turn back towards the town. The fairway hides below the large dunes on the left, eliminating some of the wind and offering the option of going for the green in two. Like many of the holes, the severe sloping of the green makes an accurate approach even more necessary.

Avoid getting caught by the views as you drive right of the dunes on the par five 11th

13th Hole - "Pit" - Par 4 - 387 Yards

One of the most famous and quirkiest holes on the course,  the "Pit" is a medium-length par four playing down a narrow fairway chute, though it's the second shot that grabs all of the attention. An old stone wall runs parellel to the hole on the left side. On the opposite side, squeezed between the wall and the dunes, sits the sunken green. A drive down the left challenging the wall offers a better angle into the green, though hitting it is no easy task. I've never played an approach shot like the one over the wall on thirteen.

Looking back on the sunken green and the fairway separated to the left by the wall 

15th Hole - "Redan" - Par 3 - 190 Yards

Is is the best par three I've ever played? The uneducated golfer might not think much of the hole at first, because of the initially unimpressive view. The green hides behind a large dune and two cop bunkers, but fortunately, I knew what sat just out of view. "Redan" comes from a military formation, and this hole--the most copied in the world--has a formidable structure in its green site. The typical Redan design has a deep angled bunker flanking the left of a green that slopes from fron to back and right to left. One can attack the pin directly or play to the safer right side and let the slope take the ball towards the pin. Though I missed my par putt by an inch, I left the hole asking myself, "Does this hole deserved to be copied all over the world? The more I think about it, the more I believe that the fifteenth lives up to the hype. And though I've yet to decide whether it's my favorite short hole or not, it is without a doubt the best designed par three I've played. 

The famous Redan bunker and green configuration; though it's the most
copied par three in the world, only one has Bass Rock in the background. 

16th Hole - "Gate" - Par 4 - 378 Yards

The spectacular (and one-of-a-kind) green sites just keep on coming. Sixteen is the most diabolical hole on the course, and might just have been my favorite. The drive plays over a deceiving burn, but the water is the least of the worries. The green sits at a forty-five degree angle to the fairway, with a four foot swale running through the middle. The swale cuts the green on a diagonal, making the back section even smaller and harder to reach. All three of us failed to find the correct section and had fun putts up the slope. With the condition that the pin is in the back, this may be my favorite hole of the whole trip. 

The deep swale separating the sixteenth green into two sections;
it's nearly impossible to attack the back pin position.

Final Observations

Is there a more fun golf course out there? Though I hope to play golf for my whole life and take my clubs wherever I travel, I doubt few courses I find will best North Berwick in the fun category. The collection of drastically varied holes coupled with incredible views on nearly every hole makes the West Links a special place to play golf. Add in perhaps the most interesting set of eighteen greens I have ever seen, and the result is a day of pure golf, as fun as it comes. 

This sign has seen plenty of action, and the wall has
blocked many approach shots on the par four third.

I loved the out-and-back routing. On most courses having hole after hole play in the same direction is boring, but at North Berwick it felt only fitting. A round of golf should be a journey, and I can say that no journey has been more exhilarating for me than this one along the East Lothian coast. After turning back towards the town, hole after hole on the back nine wowed me. Standing on the tenth tee box, I felt so far away from the clubhouse and town. It's a purposeful challenge, daring the golfer to attack each of the incredibly unique back nine holes one shot at a time in order to get home. I started the homeward journey by chipping in (for bogey) on the tenth, and though no easy pars were out there, each swing was thrilling. I could have reviewed every hole on the back nine alone--they were that different and that much fun. 

I didn't even have room to mention some excellent holes. The third, playing over a stone wall; the fourth, a beautiful double-plateau green set among the dunes; the twelfth, my favorite of the non-famous holes, the fourteenth, dubbed "perfection" due to the blind second shot; and eighteen, finishing right in front of the clubhouse, remarkably similar to the final hole at St. Andrews. The variety in the holes gave the West Links an immeasurable amount of character. 

Tony and Scott and I settled ourselves in the upstairs dining room of the clubhouse, and we had a lot to talk about. In that moment, looking down upon the eighteenth green and out over the dunes to the Firth of Forth, the pure golf scenery was impossible to match. They were wrapping up a two week Scotland trip, which included rounds at the Old Course, Muirfield, Cruden Bay, the new Trump course, and many other links gems. I asked about each course, seeking their recommendations and experiences. I loved hearing the first hand account of Scotland's best courses, but though they played over a dozen and I only two, we all agreed that North Berwick was one of the most fun places to play. 

Happy as can be among the fairway dunes of North Berwick

I fulfilled my dream of golfing in Scotland, and immediately I began wishing for more. If I have any say in it, I'll be back to the British Isles soon, clubs in tow, excited for all of the courses slated for play. I know one thing, however: I must make it back to North Berwick some day.

Click here to see all of my photos from North Berwick.

Scotland Trip, Part Two: Gullane Golf Club

With my rented TaylorMade clubs in tow, I boarded the X24 bus heading east from Edinburgh. It was my first morning in Scotland--a glorious one at that--and I was just hours away from my first round of golf on the historic links of the British Isles. I always anticipate a round of golf with excitement; for one in Scotland, my heart was racing well before we reached Gullane.

This post may be a bit heavy on golf course details and could fringe on golf nerdiness. Though my individual experience will always remain in the forefront, I want to write about the course as if I was reviewing it for a golfing audience that cares about the details at least half as much as I do. 

Gullane Golf Club

Gullane Golf Club, with the first and second holes in the background

Located in the heart of the East Lothian "golf coast," Gullane Golf Club features three eighteen hole courses. The clubhouse sits on south side of the town of Gullane, and Gullane Hill separates it from the ocean. 

It felt only right that this spectacular location was home to so many golf courses. I passed several on the way in, and I knew that just beyond Gullane lies Muirfield--top ten in the world--and North Berwick, where I would be headed the next day. 

My excitement grew as Gullane Hill drew closer, and as I would discover, it's the true centerpiece of No. 1. Gullane No. 1 is named because it's the oldest, dating back to 1884. As with some of the oldest courses in Scotland, the design is attributed to Mother Nature, though Willie Park Jr. had his hand in the evolution of the course when he designed the No. 2 in 1898. Willie Park was one of the most influential of the original golf course architects, and he happened to also build one of my favorite courses, New Haven Country Club. 

The red holes make up No. 1, beginning and ending in the town
and following a routing all the way out to the ocean.

I checked in at the Visitors' Clubhouse, changed in the locker room, and made my way to the practice grounds for a much needed warm up. It had been over two months since I'd last touched a club, but after hitting a few dozen balls I felt great. I picked up some souvenirs at the Pro Shop near the first tee, and then introduced myself to the starter. I was slated to play alone, but I asked to be paired up with a group if possible. Soon, I met Gary and Arti on the first tee--a father and son visiting from Finland for a week of golf. Like me, they had a strong appreciation for the game, and as we teed off and worked our way up Gullane Hill and then back down towards the ocean, I began to enjoy their company more and more. 

Gullane No. 1 - Holes to Note

2nd Hole - "Windygate" - Par 4 - 379 Yards

My first experience with real dunes. The second hole is a straight shot up Gullane Hill, flanked on both sides by massive, fescued dunes. The flanking hills were imposing, demanding only straight shots up to the subtly bunkered green. 

Approach shot uphill on Hole #2

3rd Hole - "Racecourse" - Par 5 - 496 Yards

Chosen by one golf publication as one of the best 500 holes in the world, the third owes as much to its views as it does to its design. The tee shot downhill towards the ocean is spectacular, and though bunkers discourage an agressive second shot, reaching the green in two is possible. I would agree it is a top level par five, but the fifteenth hole can certainly challenge for the best on the course as well. 

Approach towards the ocean on Hole #3

7th Hole - "Queen's Head" - Par 4 - 398 Yards

One of the few spectacular par fours on the course. To be considered elite, in my opinion a course needs its strongest holes to be par fours. Whereas this is true with North Berwick and my favorite course, Taconic, Gullane has many good but few great par fours. Seven was one of the great ones. Playing down from the highest point on the course, the views may distract from the quality of the hole. Bunkers are strategically placed so that they can stop misplayed shots, but they also create channels that feed the ball towards the green.

Looking down Hole #7. Parts of course No. 1 and No. 2 in the background,
followed by the beach at low tide, the Firth of Forth, and Edinburgh in the distance

9th Hole - "Corbie" - Par 3 - 151 Yards

A gorgeous short par three playing towards the ocean. Much of the green slopes inward in a punchbowl fashion to collect shots, though anything left, right, or long is bound to find a bunker or kick off a slope into the fescue. From the green you can look down the beach and shoreline to the right and see Muirfield. 

Arti on the green, with the best tee shot of the group.

13th Hole - "Hole Across" - Par 3 - 170 Yards

Another stellar par three, the thirteenth featured the most prolific bunkering of any hole at Gullane. Playing across the valley made the hole seem long, and because the green is built into the upslope of a hill, many come up short. The best shot clears the high lip of the bunkers on the left and feeds towards the hole. The green collects shots towards the middle, but it is a hard one to hit. 

This picturesque par three has everything to do with the bunkers.
See the bottom for another picture of the thirteenth.

15th Hole - "Pumphouse" - Par 5 - 537 Yards

Though not as stunning as the par five third hole, the design of the fifteenth--especially its green--makes it a top level golf hole. Playing uphill past a white she--the "pumphouse"--the drive needs to favor the left side of the fairway, while the second shot needs to end up on the right. When the pin is in the back of what was the craziest green on the course, it's impossible not to come up short with the third shot. My putt from the front of the green rolled past the hole, stopped, and trickled back down the slope two within two feet. 

The first set of bunkers are a factor on the drive, the second set influence the approach.

Gary standing at the top of the steep and undulating fifteenth green.

Final Notes

The round closed out heading down Gullane Hill and back towards the town. After a series of emotional high points throughout the round, the eighteenth offered a calming, picturesque end. I wished Gary and Arti good luck, and walked back to the Visitors' Clubhouse for a drink and a bite to eat. The restaurant overlooked the eighteenth green of Course No. 2, and though the afternoon had turned cloudy, it was still a treat to watch groups finish. 

My first round in Scotland was nothing short of amazing, and more importantly, I had fun from the moment I woke up to the moment I left the town of Gullane. One round of true links golf will change the way you think about the game. I sat on the bus remembering the round, and it was the consistent stream of quality holes that impressed me the ocean. Playing on the ocean on a beautiful autumn day didn't hurt, either. It was a treat, and I couldn't have imagined my first round of Scottish golf going any better. The club was beautiful and classy, and the people I met were all kind and quick to share their golfing backgrounds. I would play No. 1 again in a heartbeat, though if (and hopefully when) I return, it would be fun to get a 36 hole day in with a round on No. 2. A great course with great people in a ideal location--it doesn't get much better.

On the thirteenth tee box. Couldn't have been happier.

Click here to see all of my photos from Gullane. Check back soon for Part Three of my Scotland adventure, where I will detail my day at North Berwick. 

Scotland Trip, Part One: An Overview

I have just completed my biggest European adventure of my four months here. Up until last week, all of my travels were limited to Germany. Limited is not the right word, for in Germany alone the possibilities for travel are endless. Still, I wanted to do something a little bolder, a little grander. It was over a month ago when I conceived the idea of connecting with Ian and Lauren Clausen in Edinburgh. When they gave me the thumbs-up for a visit, I immediately began planning and dreaming about the trip. 

Airplane view

Arthur's Seat

Scotland is a beautiful country with plenty of sights and things to do, but I bought the plane ticket for more than just sight-seeing reasons. Yes, Scotland is the home of golf, and as an golf enthusiast--more specifically a golf history and architecture enthusiast--I planned my trip around the golf. I am breaking up my adventures into what will most likely be four posts. In this first one, I will refrain from talking about my rounds at Gullane (Part Two) and North Berwick (Part Three) and my day at St. Andrews (Part Four). I could write an essay about any new course I play, so when it comes to historic Scottish links, I at least need to dedicate a blog post to each. 

In this segment, I will give an overview of the trip, write about the city of Edinburgh, talk about my wonderful hosts, and conclude with a list of highlights other than the golf. And there's plenty to write about. Even if I wasn't focusing my trip on golf, I still would have had a blast in Edinburgh. I'm thankful I had time to explore the city and also spend evenings with my hosts. So here we go.

Edinburgh

The biggest and most vibrant city in Scotland, Edinburgh and its half-a-million people certainly enjoy a special location. Steeped in history, the city unfurls in all directions from the Royal Mile--a pedestrian street where the cobblestones climb upwards towards the Edinburgh Castle. Unlike all of the German cities I've visited, Edinburgh has plenty of hills. The castle is perched high up on a rocky mound and looks all the more impressive because of it. The Royal Mile separates the Old Town to the south from the New Town to the north. The windy streets of the Old Town feature many tourist attractions, old architecture, plenty of fantastic shops and restaurants, and a bit of a labyrinth feel with all of the closes (covered alleyways) leading down from the main streets. 

Edinburgh Castle

The New Town was considered an architectural and planning masterpiece when it was constructed in the late eighteenth century (and they call it the "New" Town!). It helped rescue the Old Town from filth and overpopulation, and now offers some of the best restaurants and shopping in the city. There is also a beautiful park in the shadow of the castle, as well as the Sir Walter Scott Monument (which I'll get to later) and the famous Balmoral Hotel. 

In the east sits Holyrood Park and and old volcano dubbed Arthur's Seat (which I'll also get to later). Leith is the district of the city on the shore, and going east from Edinburgh is East Lothian--the "golf coast." 

My Hosts, Ian and Lauren Clausen

Ian and Lauren were so gracious in taking me into their home for five nights. From Indiana, they married after college and moved to Scotland where Ian is finishing up his Ph.D in theology. They both love the city, but the plan is definitely to move back to the States within a year or two. They are expecting their first child this winter, however, which may complicate things a bit! I got the contact from Erica Maker--cross country coach at Williams and wife of Mike Maker, the Ephs' basketball coach. Ian is Erica's younger brother, and while Mike and Erica were up at Dudley with their young baby Jack this summer, we got talking about the chance for me to visit Scotland. I am so glad I made the effort; Ian and Lauren were great hosts and incredibly nice people.

They made sure I ate well, and most evenings I returned from an exhausting day to find a delicious dinner nearly ready. Even though I did all of the sightseeing and travel alone, they made sure to check in with me about my plans, answer any questions, and give suggestions. Even better, they listened with great interest each evening as I gave the details of my day. It couldn't have been more perfect; I stayed with the nicest people, right near the city center, and still had the flexibility to do everything I wanted.

Best Moments (Excluding Golf) of the Trip

I'll go through my trip chronologically and recall the highlights. First off--and I could make a new section for this--the weather was phenomenal. We all know image painted by stereotypical Scottish weather, but I experienced little to none of it. There had been intense rain and flooding the week before I arrived, and it was pouring when I made my way to Lauren and Ian's place on Wednesday night. But from Thursday onward, it didn't rain a drop. Thursday morning was spectacular, Friday was cloudy and windy but dry, Saturday's clouds lifted and it was gorgeous by noon, and Sunday was the best day of all--genuinely warm. The perfect weather definitely contributed to my overall enjoyment of Scotland. So, here we go with some highlights--photos are at the bottom.

• On my first morning (Thursday), I took the bus heading east to Gullane for my round of golf. The ride alone was a memory I'll not soon forget. First came the sights of Arthur's Seat, gleaming golden in the morning sun. Then we passed Musselburgh Old--a golf course that claims the longest continuous play on its grounds. St. Andrews will always be the home of golf, but Musselburgh is 1A in terms of history.  Soon after passing through the town, we turned left and ran straight into the coast. At low tide, the views down to the beaches and up to the windswept dunes were spectacular. In the distance I could see Gullane Hill sitting just off the coast. That was when my heart started racing--I was minutes away from getting the the club and playing my first round of Scottish golf!
• I thoroughly enjoyed the Scottish Heritage souvenir shops that seemed to line every street. I'm sure there are some Scots who don't love the kilts and bagpipes stereotype, but for cheesy tourist shops, these stores were pretty neat. There were a lot of cashmere and wool garments with traditional plaid designs. I think I liked them because they were so different than the tourist shops I've been seeing in Germany, and though I was not looking to pick up a kilt for myself, it was still fun poking around. 
• Friday Ian and Lauren went out to dinner and the theater to celebrate her birthday, so I had the evening to roam around the Old Town--which also gave me the choice of any restaurant for dinner. After stopping by a few shops and navigating the cobblestone streets, I settled on a dinner at Deacon Brodie's on the Royal Mile. The downstairs is strictly a bar, but in the upstairs restaurant area I managed to get a window seat looking down upon the pedestrians and lights. I ventured forth and tried the haggis served with "neeps and tatties" (turnips and mashed potatoes). Though the stuff may be illegal in the U.S. for health reasons, no one has a problem with it in Scotland. And the haggis was tasty. The wild boar burger was the star of that night's show; overall an incredibly enjoyable meal.
• More food stories: after a lot of walking Saturday and a successful trip to and from St. Andrews (I'll get to that in Part Four), I was craving a mid-afternoon meal. Thankfully, I found Oink--where they serve one thing and one thing only: pulled pork sandwiches. If you're not put off by the full roast pig sitting in the window (see photo below), it's a creation to be admired. The pork was not quite as sweet as what you find in America, but with haggis and barbecue sauce, my sandwich was one of the best things I've ever eaten. For desert, I stumbled upon an Italian pastry shop. The window display (see below) was quite a bit more beautiful than Oink's, and as far as chocolate cake goes, the piece I chose was exquisit. 
• Sunday I had the whole day to roam Edinburgh and hit the attractions high on my list. It began with the Edinburgh Castle. I had views of the imposing structure each day, but it wasn't until the beautiful Sunday morning that I got to go inside the walls. It's definitely aimed at tourists, but I appreciated the vast amount of historical information offered in the many small museums and exhibits inside the castle's many rooms. My favorite parts included seeing the Crown Jewels and the Scottish History of War museum. 
• Part two of a busy Sunday: while waiting for my bus to get out to Tynecastle Stadium for a Hearts FC match, I saw the Sir Walter Scott Monument down the street. I figured I could climb up the steps, get some photos, and climb back down, within fifteen minutes or so. It wasn't quite so easy, as the spiral staircase became narrower as it went upwards. I reached the second highest platform easily, but then I ran into a logjam going up the final stretch. The steps were so narrow that it was impossible for anyone going down to pass. Twice we nearly reached the top before having to back our way down. One the third attempt I made it. Though I only spent a minute up there, the views were worth it. 
• I raced back down the steps to catch the bus headed out to the stadium. I wouldn't say I was joining a flood of people going to the game, but there were plenty of fans sporting the maroon and white colors. Hearts is one of the more famous Scottish clubs, but compared to Celtic and Rangers they're not quite on the same level. The game was a lot of fun. The small stadium was probably two-thirds full; they announced 11,500 in attendance. The Motherwell fans apparently don't travel well, because their section was nearly empty. Hearts bagged a beautiful goal off a long left-footed strike from the outside back, and though the game was uptempo and entertaining for the rest of the time, no more goals were scored. I sat in the middle of the Hearts supporters right behind the net and loved the view for the whole match.
• My last and possibly favorite memory from Edinburgh came on that glorious Sunday afternoon. I mentioned Arthur's Seat earlier; after seeing the rocky hill on the first morning, I knew I had to climb it. A near staircase zigzags up the hill, due to the immense number of hikers. I started on the west and probably steepest side, but in no time I was near the top. To my left were the Crags of Salisbury; past them, the city of Edinburgh and the castle rising from the streets. The valley created between the Crags and Arthur's Seat offered an excellent view out towards the ocean and the Firth of Forth. I chatted with locals and visitors alike at the top, all enjoying the sun and the views. I could see the castle, the stadium, and out to North Berwick. It was cool looking back on my four days from the highest point in Edinburgh. 

Deacon Brodie's Restaurant

Oink's hog roast--they close up for the day once the pig is gone!

Some fantastic pastries and cakes

Large cannon at the Edinburgh Castle

Sir Walter Scott Monument--287 steps to the top

From the top of the Sir Walter Scott Monument--the Balmoral to the left,
Waverley Train Station below, and Arthur's Seat in the back left.

Hearts FC match at Tynecastle Stadium

Arthur's Seat

Salisbury Crags, the city to the left, ocean to the right

At the top of Arthur's Seat

Click here for all of my photos from Scotland.

Some Lists Reflecting On My First Two Months

As I am typing this post, I sit in seat 9A on the first leg of my journey to Scotland. Though I'll probably be posting this on a later day, it's currently been exactly two months since I exited the plane which brought me to Germany, and now, for the first time, I'm leaving the country. Today's flight lands in Amsterdam, where I will hop aboard another plane bringing me to my final destination of Edinburgh, Scotland. Rising through the clouds, I can't help but think back to the beginning of my grand adventure in August. The final hugs and goodbyes seem worlds away, and though the two months have flown by, I feel completely different. I am still the same person, but the exposure and experience during my time in Europe has had a profound impact. I cannot judge my whole gap year before most of it has happened, but based on the past two months, I can guess it's a decision I'll cherish for the rest of my life.

Hopefully my blog has given a little insight into the adventure. It's fun even for me to look back on the early posts and see how far I've come since then. Sometimes you can be so eager that it's easy to miss the most important parts. I feel so comfortable in my home and in Germany now, and though I am still as excited as ever to find new experiences, I'm learning to slow down and appreciate the little bits of magic that might not reveal themselves right away.

I've had some amazing adventures so far, met some incredible people, tried all sorts of foods, studied the German culture from an outside perspective, formed relationships that I want to continue even after I leave, and most importantly had so much fun in the process. If you haven't been following the blog, this post may be a good place to start. I want to offer a handful of lists that summarize and highlight the best parts of my time in Europe. It's impossible to whittle down all of the details I've described into one post, but hopefully this covers the best of the best. Enjoy this, and then prepare to follow me on the second half of my trip. If it's anything like the first, I'm in for a real treat.

Five Favorite Adventures

• Oktoberfest - Waking up well before sunrise, itching to get off the train and into the fairgrounds, seeing a beer tent packed at ten in the morning--Oktoberfest can be pretty extreme. People will go great lengths to get there and to join the celebration. I'm so fortune I got to meet up with Will Plumb and Kirk Horton, and enjoy the festival with friends while making new ones. It's probably in one of the top ten things to do before you die, and now I can check it off my list. And I would come back in a heartbeat. 
• Joining Two Soccer Teams - I came here to focus on my soccer, and it's been the greatest of adventures rediscovering the sport I know best in a different country. No matter what the circumstances, when I am on the pitch with my German teammates, there are always those "wow" moments. The training has been exactly what I wanted, but more importantly it has given me the best possible opportunity to meet people.  
• Family Trip to the Schloss Westerhaus Vineyard - With young kids, it's hard to go on long trips together or find activities that suit all seven of us. But when we do get out together, it's often my favorite day of the week. The day at Schloss Westerhaus was the best--fun for the whole family as we picked grapes and enjoyed the German countryside. 
• Hiking in the Black Forest - Only last week, on what was probably one of the last gorgeous autumn days, I hiked the Teufelsmuhle with Lukas Ebeler and our host Leo. We were debating on whether or not to go into France, but I am so glad we decided to turn the day into a hike. Lunch at the top followed by a long game of cards was probably one of my favorite meals so far in Germany.
• My First Bundesliga Game in Stuttgart - Meeting up with family friend Blake Little in Stuttgart insured me an excellent stay in the city. Seeing Stuttgart play versus Leverkusen was the cherry on top. I loved the city and my time with Blake, but for a soccer fanatic, nothing was better than getting to watch and experience a Bundesliga game. 

Five Favorite Foods

• Bratwurst - It's hard to go wrong with a bratwurst, and it tastes delicious no matter what time of day. When I am walking around and I start to feel hungry, it seems there's always a bratwurst hot off the grill right around the corner. 
• Doner - There's a reason that Doner stores dot nearly every city street in Germany. It's a tasty lunch or snack, and comes in a normal pita pocket, in a wrap, or even on a pizza. 
• Chocolate Croissants - Bakeries don't mess around in Germany, and though I've tried just about every pastry imaginable, it's the classic chocolate croissant--freshly baked and still a bit warm--that I love the most. 
• Ute's Rice Patties - Ute comes on Tuesdays and Thursdays to help with the kids, and I could add a category of "Five Favorite Things Cooked by Ute," but her most popular dish is a rice patty with onions and cheese. I could live off of those.
• Flammkuchen - German style pizza is a delicious spin off of the traditional pie. The creme, garlic, and onion base nearly turns the crust into garlic bread, and with any variety of German meats and cheeses on top, it's a delicious meal. 

Five Favorite Little Details

• Toothpaste - The German brand, Elmex, sells combo packs of toothpaste--one to use in the morning and one to use at night. 
• Beer Glasses - It's nearly unlawful to pour a beer in a glass with a different logo on it. There's more to the overall quality of beer than just the ingredients.
• Bike Rides Home From Training - I never feel the cool evening air until I hop on my bike and speed down the hill. It's less than a kilometer to get back to 24B, where I undoubtedly find something delicious in the fridge to heat up for dinner. 
• Reaching Top Speed on an ICE - I've ridden my fair share of ICE trains by now, and it amazes me time after time how fast those things can go. Heading down to Munich we reached 320 kilometers per hour. 
• Daily Play Time with the Judson Kids - There's never any lack of excitement or fun when the kids are around. I can tickle Izzy, pitch to Alex in the basement, wrestle with Sebastian, or play foosball with Luc. And that's just getting started. I love being part of the family. 

Five Ways Germany is Way Different than the US

• Space - I am used to it now, but it's easy to see the effects of eighty million people crammed into a country so much smaller than the US. The whole concept of living space is different here, and people simply don't expect and need as much to get by. It's still easy to get out of a town or city and find great views, but where there are people, it gets very crowded.
• Food - I'm sure a vegetarian could survive in Germany, but it would take a huge effort. German cooking is heavy. There's meat for every meal, lots of bread and cheese, plenty of potato dishes, and not much in terms of greens. Thankfully the Judsons eat healthy and balanced meals, but when I'm traveling, I sometimes long for a light vegetarian meal once in a while. 
• Language - Kind of an obvious choice, but for me, I've enjoyed this first-time experience of living in a foreign country with a different language. It definitely keeps me on my toes, and though I use English ninety-five percent of the time, it makes me feel really good when I understand or accomplish something using Deutsch. 
• Structure - The biggest difference between the German people and Americans is the way they go about their days. There is a purpose, and there is no time for trivial nuisances to slow the down. For this reason the Germans are incredibly and almost comically honest, and when there is such a high level of trust, things tend to run very smoothly. 
• Transportation - Cars don't take precedence here like they do in the US. With a high-functioning public transport network and high fuel and parking costs, most people don't need a car. No one that I've met under the age of twenty-five owns a car, and even those families who do often use it sparingly. 

Five Favorite Photographs

Ferris wheel at Bad Homburg's Laternenfest

Grapes at the Schloss Westerhaus Vineyard

The Hippodrom tent at The Oktoberfest

Sebastian peeking out from the corn

A one-of-a-kind tree in Bad Herranalb

Life is Good When Life is Simple

Three Days in Karlsruhe and the Black Forest

For the second leg of my five-day journey, Lukas Ebeler and I jumped on a train heading south to Karlsruhe. The city is home to the Karlsruhe Institute of Technology, where Lukas's older brother Moritz and a close friend from Hannover named Leo study. Exhausted from the previous evening and early wake up, I lugged my suitcase through the city--the handle had fallen off the night before. We met Leo and went to his apartment where we would be staying for the next three nights. I soon found out that Leo was a master at fixing things, and his apartment had all of the tools one could ever need. Within five minutes he pulled out a drill for me, and I worked on making new holes for the suitcase handle. So far my craftsmanship has held up!

Leo was the nicest of hosts. A long time friend of Lukas's, he wanted to make sure we enjoyed ourselves--and the food. We explored the campus a bit on the afternoon of our arrival and snacked on Doner Pizza (two of Germany's favorite fast-foods combined into one). It was the type of slow day I needed, and it was especially nice to go home in the evening and cook dinner for ourselves. Lukas and I did the shopping, mainly several packs of Maultaschen--a mix between a dumpling and ravioli. Sliced up and sauteed with onions, bacon, and cheese, it was delicious. 

In front of the Karlsruhe Palace with Lukas and Leo

I got to meet some of Leo's university friends. Jimbo and his Italian girlfriend came over after dinner (the only way for them to communicate is using English) with a big Italian salami for everyone to share. The next morning I met Connor and squared off agains him in Fifa. Let's just say I was a bit rusty. 

Friday we cooked a feast for brunch and slowly eased into the day. The skies were threatening rain, but we decided to make an attempt to see the royal palace. The city was planned so that the palace was the hub, with the main streets fanning out in a circle. Though it was raining by the time we finished our walk, we still managed to see the sights and snap a few pictures.

By far the highlight of my trip, however, was the hike on Saturday. We left on an S-Bahn heading out of the city, and soon the hills of the Black Forest rose around us. The hike was a fifteen kilometer, A-to-B day trip, from the small town of Gernsbach to the slightly smaller town of Bad Herrenalb. Thankfully I  had borrowed a pair of boots from Leo, because soon we left the streets and were moving upwards. After a few breaks for kohlrabi and some photos, we reached the summit. It was a solid effort of almost eight kilometers, and we were all pleased to see that the restaurant on top had not yet closed for the winter.

Looking down on the small Black Forest towns

Walking into the warm restaurant, sitting down next to the wood stove, and ordering some Black Forest Ham felt that much better after the hike up. We took a long break and enjoyed the food, playing cards all the while. It was hard to get up to leave, but we wanted to make it back to Karlsruhe to go to dinner at Lukas's brother's flat. The walk down wasn't quite as scenic as the one up. Upon reaching our final destination of Bad Herrenalb, though, we encountered a sight that made us all stop and stare. The quaint and old-fashioned spa town featured a church dating back to the thirteenth century. Outside the church was an archway, and on top of it grew a tree that must have been forty feet high. The roots ran down either side of the arch, all the way to the ground. The idea, the design, the execution--all flawless.

Never seen anything like it--the tree growing
from the top of the arch in Bad Herrenalb

A tree growing from the top of an arch? Just one of the little details that my extended stay has allowed me to discover. Those are the best moments--when something makes you say "wow." And more times than not, it's a little detail that I would have easily missed had I just been city-hopping around Europe. I am trying to see as much as I can, but the memories I take home will undoubtedly come from those times when I slowed down and found something simple to appreciate.

Lukas and Leo were so nice to me over the few days we spent together. I loved my stay in Karlsruhe, and I am glad we decided to go for the hike--no reason to sit around on a beautiful Saturday! It's getting a bit colder now, and rainy too. If that was the last glorious day of autumn, then at least we made the most of the warm air and beautiful German countryside.

A Brewery Tour with Abbensen Friends

A normal Wednesday for me consists of teaching, some time with the Judson kids, and a soccer practice in the evening. This past Wednesday went a little differently. I caught a train right after school heading up to Hannover, and by late afternoon I was with a group of friends from Camp Abbensen. It's a CVJM camp (Germany's version of the YMCA) and has been part of a fifty-one year exchange program with Camp Dudley. I spent the summer of 2009 in Germany through the exchange, attending the camp and touring with other visiting international groups. Many of my friends from the camp have made it to Dudley, and others I remembered from 2009.

Our group of twelve ventured out to the Herrenhauser Brewery on the west side of the city. The buildings were big, old, and a bit foreboding. Although the atmosphere of the tour was quite friendly, I was happy we skipped over the basement to get up to brewery's pub on the top floor. It was nice to sample the different types of beers and rid my palate of some of the smells from the production rooms. They made a big deal about the Icebeer during the tour, claiming to be one of the few German breweries to produce this type of beer. Nearly everyone wanted to sample it first, and I would say that most, myself included, were unimpressed.

Still, the atmosphere was warm and friendly. Like Dudley folk, Abbensen friends tend to be the nicest of people. I enjoyed seeing friends, some of whom I hadn't spoken to since my last time in Germany, and reminiscing about the camp. It's a special place, and though it will always be difficult to pass up a summer at Dudley, I would love to lead the exchange program when I get a little older. 

Stuttgart, Courtesy of Blake Little

I'm a bit behind on posting about my travels, but I hope to catch up before I leave for Scotland on Wednesday. Last weekend I spent two days in Stuttgart, and I can infer it’s the type of city that takes a little bit of inside information to truly appreciate. Some cities or famous locations have a handful of attractions that are impossible to miss--enough to keep uninformed tourists content for a weekend. Others, like Stuttgart, are a little different. Maybe it was because I arrived in a downpour or that the train station is undergoing major construction, but I was initially a bit unimpressed.

But then, I met my host Blake Little.

Blake is a family friend through Dudley, and he was at camp when my mom was a staff member and my uncle was a camper. Like my uncle, he went to St. Lawrence. He’s always been involved in the teaching and athletic training world, but half-a-dozen years ago he left his home state of Ohio to teach at DODS (Department of Defense School) in the north of Italy. After a successful five years there, he moved to Stuttgart and is doing the same thing in a new country.

I had never met Blake before, but within a few minutes I knew he was going to be an excellent host. When you have Dudley as a common denominator, it’s easy to become quick friends. We talked as we made our way back to his (awesome) flat, and thought it was still raining when we got there, I could tell I was in good hands for my time in the city. I was with someone who had the inside information about Stuttgart, and that made all the difference. 

A quick run through of what we did 

Traditional German architecture in Esslingen

First off we hopped on the S-Bahn heading east out of the city to visit the historical town of Esslingen no more than ten minutes away. Would I have known that the small village contained some of the most fascinating and classic examples of traditional German architecture? Blake took me down the windy cobblestone streets and beside the small canals. Vineyards covered the steep hills on either side of the town--it’s amazing how every bit of available space is utilized.

We returned for lunch at Calwer-Eck-Brau--perhaps Stuttgart’s finest microbrewery. The second-story restaurant was near the center of the city, and some fascinating interior woodwork separated the main room into distinct sections. It turned out they serve an all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays, so I filled myself with the German, and more specifically Schwaben, style food. From what I know, Stuttgart is the benefactor of Black Forest heritage, which lends itself to the region’s unique food and beverage. I, for one, really enjoyed it.

After biking through the city for a while (the clouds had separated while we were eating lunch and the sun had come out), we prepared for the evening game. Stuttgart was matched up against Bayer Leverkusen in a Bundesliga tilt--and I was going to see it! The Mercedes Benz Arena finished a long-term renovation a few years ago, and now the stadium is spectacular. There’s room for over 60,000 spectators, and while it wasn’t sold out for this match, it’s still pretty loud when 50,000 cheer for a goal. Our seats were in the upper and left section of the Cannstatter Kurve--behind the net where the true fans sit. Below us was standing room only--packed with the club’s most loyal (and inebriated) supporters. Men on platforms held microphones, megaphones, and drums; they insured that the noise did not stop for one moment.

Stuttgart currently sits near the bottom of the tables, and when Leverkusen scored a easy goal off of a goalie mistake, I wondered whether the team and the fans would let down. We found out soon after that this would not be the case. The home side earned a penalty kick and promptly buried it to tie the score at one apiece. As the cold air set in the stadium stayed warm with the energy of the fans. I must have heard the cheer "Scheisst Ein Tor! Scheisst Ein Tor! Auf Geht Stuttgart, Scheisst Ein Tor!" about a hundred times. Following halftime, Stuttgart came out and scored one of the nicer goals I have seen live. The left wing beat two defenders going down the sideline before taking it to the end-line and sliding it across for an easy finish. Though Leverkusen tied it soon after on a nice header goal, the energy remained high until the final whistle. Not a bad experience at all. I feel very fortunate that the game lined up with my trip to Stuttgart and that Blake was so willing to help with tickets.

Three-story statue at the Cannstatter Volksfest

The fun didn't just end there. It also happened that I visited during Stuttgart's Cannstatter Volksfest. The fairgrounds are located right next door to the stadium, so along with nearly every other fan in attendance, Blake and I walked over to the festival. At half the size of Oktoberfest, it feels a little less touristy. Still, the party can still get pretty wild at the second biggest of Germany's fall festivals. Blake knew one of the bands playing in a smaller tent, so we listened to them sing anything from traditional German songs to "Sweet Caroline" for an hour. It wasn't like Oktoberfest where every square inch was packed, which made walking around easier. We saw some of the bigger tents before heading away from the grounds to get dinner.

We took the S-Bahn to one of Blake's favorite pubs, which served delicious local cuisine and specialty beer brewed in the Black Forest to the south of Stuttgart. I tried Flammkuchen--the form of pizza found in Germany's southwest. It has no tomato sauce; instead, a "creme fraiche" coats the crust, with the cheese, onions, and mushrooms or meat on top. It was delicious--certainly a well earned dinner. 

Monday was all about seeing the city--from the highest points possible. Blake drove me around in the morning to both of the hill spines that frame the city. The sun was out, and it was prefect to enjoy a casual morning in a beautiful place. Blake talked as we explored, and it's that type of tour guide which I enjoy most. Blake took time to show me around and make sure I enjoyed myself. I'm finding more and more that people are willing to go out of their way to make me feel comfortable--helping me to make the most out of my time here. 

I closed out my Stuttgart trip with a hike up to the top of the train station tower. The old stone staircase spiraled upwards for ten floors. I was sweating (a lot) by the time I reached the opening to roof lookout. It was a cool way to say goodbye to the city, one which definitely made a big impact me over my short stay.