Retracing Memories in Munich

A You'll-Get-The-Point-Eventually Introduction

In 2009 I hadn't yet discovered the power of Google Maps. As I set off with my Dudley buddies for my first trip across the Atlantic, I knew little about where I was heading. My European and German geography skills were more than competent, as I always loved studying maps and answering those "where in the world" questions. For whatever reason, though, I hadn't bothered to zoom in on any of the German cities I'd be seeing. And why bother? My travels would be decided by the group's itinerary, and while racing around the country,  it seemed we didn't have time to remember every little place and street name.

I went back and read through my journal from that trip before flying here in August, and as I read, images and memories flooded back. I wish I had flipped through my photos from that trip, too. What didn't appear were the visual maps that I have accumulated throughout my travels this time around. Though I spent three full days in Berlin that summer--longer than nearly every trip I took over the past four months--I have absolutely no idea what a map of the city looks like. My memories from Berlin are still vivid (and some of my favorite from that summer), but I struggle to organize them geographically.

As a solo traveler, I've had to plan every adventure for myself, which means a lot of time studying Google Maps. When I think of the cities and places I've visited, I picture my favorite sights and unique discoveries. I can't help, though, in visualizing a map of the city. Perhaps I've forever moved on from the innocence of uninformed travel, and that's not all bad. My memories wouldn't be what they are without a little simple preparation prior to my trips.

Still, returning to Munich this past Friday felt like an homage to my former self. I wanted to retrace my steps from 2009, and hopefully uncover some forgotten memories. My glorious summer of tramping around Germany with my Dudley buddies was one of the best of my life. Without it I probably wouldn't be here right now. It felt only right to spend my final day trip in Munich, bringing everything full circle. Except this time, instead of merely being peeking into the beer halls, I'd have free reign to stroll right in.

I think I took a picture of the Rathaus from this exact spot in 2009--still just as impressive!

My Last Day Trip, My Last ICE Train Ride

I don't know if any trains in the US can get up to 320 kilometers-per-hour, but even if they can, I doubt I'll be riding them any time soon. The straight shot to Munich never fails to spark some excitement in me, as we pass through the hills of Wurtzburg, cross state borders, and pick up speed past Nuremberg as Bavaria's capitol draws ever closer. I realized it would be my final day riding the ICEs. German public transportation has treated me well--at least well enough to sip me down to Munich and back in a day. Without fail, I always arrived at my destination, and without fail, I always made it back home.

Though the Christmas Markets were in full swing throughout the city, I spent a shorter amount of time exploring them than any of the other cities' markets. And this had nothing to do with the quality of the stalls, food stands, and Christmas decorations. I wanted to feel the December atmosphere in Munich, but more so I went for the Bavarian atmosphere that I've come to love.

As I retraced my 2009 steps, first to the CVJM Youth Hostel and then towards Marienplatz and the heart of the city, I realized it was too cold to spend all day wandering outside. I would turn onto a street and think, I totally remember this, and then a few seconds later realize, Damn I'm cold. And what better way to warm up than to visit any of Munich's traditional restaurants.

I started my day's feast with a bratwurst, pretzel, and weissbier brunch at Augustiner. Only the Germans have figured out a way to make beer totally appropriate for breakfast. I followed that up a few hours later with a fried potato pancake dish from the market. There I met a couple from the US who have been traveling to Germany in December for over two decades. I haven't seen too many Christmas Markets, but you really have to love German nutcrackers and gluhwein to make these winter festivals a yearly destination.

Two photos of the Alps, looking south from the Munich Rathaus Tower. 

I was limited by hours and cold, but I still managed to see a lot. I made a trip up the Rathaus Tower (something I've become accustomed to) and was struck by a fabulous view of the Alps. Wild, twisted, and covered in snow, the mountains had a certain mystique and allure to them. I wanted to hop on a train heading south to see them up close, but I'll have to save that for another day. Looking out over Munich, I realized that my Dudley friends and I really didn't explore much of the city. It certainly felt like we walked all of the main streets, especially when we were allowed to roam around at night, but I was able to see nearly everything I remembered pretty easily. I guess we had our fun in other ways, like running through the fountain near our hostel. I returned to that spot for a photo and found it covered in a skating rink!

My final Bavarian meal came at the Weisses Brauhaus, where they serve wheat beers from one of my favorite breweries: Schneider Weisse. Somewhere over the course of my schweinhaxe (pork knuckle, you could call it) and my conversation with two older Germans, I discovered my favorite German beer to date. Straight from the source at one of the most traditional and soul-warming places in Munich--it doesn't get much better! I reaffirmed my loved for all things Bavarian, especially when it comes to food and drink.

Back Home, and Soon Really Back Home

Fresh images of Munich flashed through my mind as I thought back to 2009. That trip was one of the greatest adventures I've ever had, but it wasn't necessarily the country that made it so much fun. While I credit most of the fun on that trip to my Dudley leaders and peers, this time around, it's because of the country. After my 2009 summer I had no reason to believe I would return to Germany within three years, but I have come, and I have learned to appreciate so much more. Now, I know that I'll start dreaming about my next Germany trip the minute I arrive home. 

I made it safely home from Munich, and now, my last leg of the adventure draws near. It wasn't easy to write thank you cards on the train ride home, because I knew that once those were finished, my time would nearly be up. 

I fly back this coming Sunday, anticipating my month at home during the holiday season. But it's difficult to say goodbye. I've been touched by so many people and places that it will be hard to suddenly pull the plug. I sincerely hope that Germany doesn't change while I'm gone, for when I return, I want it to be exactly the way I remember it.