Bamberg: A True Bavarian City

I've finished most of my big travels, but with plenty of time left in Germany and some days still available on my Eurail train pass, it's time for a series of day trips. This past Friday, with the best weather November has offered so far, I rose early to make the trip to Bamberg. Located in Bavaria's northwest region called Franconia, Bamberg is a beautifully preserved city that exemplifies the German and more specifically Bavarian way of life.

Would you rather visit a city with enough Medieval buildings to merit a UNSECO World Heritage Site distinction, or a city featuring the most breweries per capita in the world? Fortunately for me, there was no decision necessary.

Starting With the Architecture... 

Even though Bamberg is only slightly bigger than Bad Homburg, it feels like a real city. Perhaps it's because the Altstadt is really an island in the Regnitz River. Everything is compact; the jumbled streets and riverfront houses squeeze into the river valley below the seven hills of Bamberg. I managed to capture two of my favorite photos of my entire time in Germany as I wandered through the Altstadt.

The first photo is of the Old Town Hall (Alt Rathaus). It's incredible how the half-timbered section of the building hangs over the river, and equally as impressive are the colorful murals and baroque sculpture on the sides. Walking down the river only a hundred meters or so, I found myself staring across at the most picturesque riverfront scene I've ever seen. It's no surprise that this stretch of town is called "Little Venice." The panorama I shot here is one of my favorite photos I've ever taken. (Click the photo for a bigger version). 

Though it was a quick-stop-here, quick-stop-there type of day, I was wowed by the city. The sights and atmosphere alone make me want to return. Some places have a certain timeless feel to them. Though I love United States history, we're lacking a bit on the age front. Everything in America tends to grow and expand, while a place like Bamberg feels like it has and never will change. I know I'm exaggerating, but it's the only way to describe the city.

The baroque-style New Palace; it's only been around for four hundred years. 

Bamberg's Brewing Tradition

I promised to get to the part about Bamberg's brewing tradition. First a few thoughts: almost all German beer fits into either the pilsner or weissbier categories. While I've found some great versions of those styles, the average German beer can be pretty underwhelming. Though Germans brew dozens of kinds of beer, it's often difficult to find variety.

Schlenkerla: Rauchbier has been brewed here for centuries

Getting to sample a city or region's beer is an awesome perk to traveling within the country. And what better place to stop than Bamberg. I've enjoyed learning about brewing history as much and if not more  than sampling drinks, so preparing for my Bamberg trip was a lot of fun. The city houses nine breweries, many of which sit in the long established quarters of the Old Town. In alphabetical order: Ambrausianum, Fassla, Greifenklau, Kaiserdom, Keesmann, Klosterbrau, Mahr's Brau, Spezial, and Schlenkerla. With so many options, the styles available cover the entire scope of German beers.

Brauerei zum Spezial: Bamberg's other Rauchbier brewer

I loved the unobtrusive building fronts and classic interiors. Small rooms, low ceilings, views of the tap from everywhere, stained glass windows--the restaurants fit their purpose beautifully. They connect to the main brewery operation, making supporting the local industry irresistible. And the breweries only sell their product within the confines of the city.

The city is any beer lover's paradise, and whats more, it's the home of an obscure and perhaps polarizing type of brew: Rauchbier. Literally, "smoke beer," it's deliciously unlike any other beer. Only Schlenkerla and Spezial produce the style. Some may be disgusted by the smoky aroma and slight bacon flavor, but I was not one of them.

A Few Thoughts About Bavaria

Bavaria is just a little different from the rest of the country. I would be lying if I said that the culture and lifestyle of, say, Frankfurt, does not differ from that of Hamburg or Berlin, but Bavaria and it's capitol of Munich stand out. It's kind of like the Texas of Germany, except with incredible scenery, picturesque old cities, and a strong beer culture. I can't really comment on Texas, though. 

I've been told that the people in Germany's largest state consider themselves to be Bavarians, not Germans. There's a certain laid back feeling that I get in Bavaria. The people seem to be casual, friendly, and liberal in their politics and the amount of beer they consume. 

The beer culture is apparent, even in a country where beer is the national drink. It's possible to get Bavarian beers all over Germany, but the true gems have to be sought out. That's why I will never see a Mahr's Brau beer being sold in Frankfurt. It's also why travel and beer in Germany go hand in hand. 

We'll see if I make it back to Bavaria during this trip. I'd never pass up the chance to go back, and I know I will return eventually. I've been to the most popular destinations and seen some of the best sights. Munich, Nuremberg, and Bamberg are all places where I would be happy to spend a week exploring the little details that are impossible to catch in a day or weekend trip. But for now, I've enjoyed every hour I've spent in Germany's biggest and possibly my favorite state.