November 18, 2012

Dusseldorf and Lofty Expectations

Is it fair to say that one of the highlights of my recent day trip to Dusseldorf was the transfer in Cologne? Let me explain.

Another Fast-Paced Day Trip


I've come to love the freedom and flexibility that comes with sitting down in the evening and pondering the question, "Where to next?" (Don't worry, I'm not day-tripping every day, and I'm certainly not skipping out on my teaching and soccer commitments). Not wanting to waste any of my allotted travel days on my Eurail pass, I decided half a day in Dusseldorf would be a reasonable adventure. 

The waterway separating the streets of the Konigsallee, Dusseldorf's upscale shopping street.
I felt out of place just walking it, and I received glares from security guards as I peered in the windows. 
Before I get to the city, I'll explain what I wrote in the opening line. I had a short transfer in Cologne (one that required some running), but pulling into the Hauptbahnhof we passed fewer than fifty yards from the Cologne Dom. I had researched the famous cathedral, and I've been patient enough to wait for my parents' visit to explore Cologne. Still, as we made the turn and the Dom came into view, I wanted to get out right then and there and cancel my Dusseldorf plans. Luckily I made my connecting train and was soon arriving at my intended destination, but the glimpse of Cologne's greatest monument was something special. My parents and I will make the trip this coming Friday. Seeing the Dom will be even better with them.

Fresh produce at the farmers' market, even in November!
My expectations were not high, and there was no reason for them to be. I was attempting to squeeze in another adventure, with the chance that something memorable might unveil itself during the day. Dusseldorf is a nice city, but I could describe it just like many of the not-so-unique cities in Germany. For example: there's a big street with lots of places to buy things that are way too expensive for my budget; there's a small Altstadt area with cobblestone streets; a river (The Rhine) plays a predominant role in the city's layout; and there are lots of enticing places to eat. It all sounds nice, but nothing about those descriptions make Dusseldorf special.

What did make it special was meeting Kent Shultz, whom I bumped into while grabbing some lunch. I heard him struggling with a waiter who knew little English, and offered my limited assistance. My gesture turned out meaning more than I could have ever expected. Kent explained to me that it was his first time in Europe and that he had only landed in Dusseldorf a few hours ago. I didn't ask what he did or where he went to college (it was pretty clear that he was a fairly recent graduate), but those details didn't matter so much to me. I wanted to know why he was in Dusseldorf, and I soon found out.

Kent is a semi-obsessed home-brewer living in San Diego. He's only been at it for a few years, but he told me he's found a lot of success (with plenty of failures, too). He explained that he's been brewing a lot of English and German style beers, but he'd never traveled to try the authentic product. So, he jumped at the opportunity to spend two weeks in Europe--mostly in England but with a few days in Germany--in attempt to sample brews and learn more about the craft.

He spoke not a word of German, so I told him that though my Deutsch is still poor and my knowledge of Dusseldorf's breweries even poorer, I'd be happy to accompany him during the afternoon visiting the different breweries. I had already passed two that looked authentic--Uerige and Schumacher--so we set off.

A statue outside the Uerige Brewery, with the "U" carved into the base.
I found we complemented each other quite well. With three months of experience, I knew a fair amount about travel in Germany. By now I'm very confident with my navigation skills and understanding of the public transport system. Kent, as this was his first time in Germany, definitely looked a little lost. Once we sat down at a brewery, however, he was in his element. Most of what he said right over my head, but it was a good learning experience listening to someone who could pick up the nuances when comparing the different "altbier" brews. (Altbier is the style specific to Dusseldorf, and the city has four authentic breweries still in operation).

Since I had training back in Bad Homburg that evening, I didn't stay with Kent as long as I would've liked. Still, it was the type of random encounter that I've come to love about traveling in Europe. Meeting Kent made my brief Dusseldorf experience memorable, and that's all I can ask.

Click here to see all of my photos from Dusseldorf.

Back to Bad Homburg, Getting Ready


I passed through Cologne again on my way home. The expectations are certainly high for when I visit the city with my parents. I have high expectations for their entire visit, for that matter. And why wouldn't I? It'll be the first time I've seen them in over three months. By now I'm confident that I can be a decent tour guide as I show them my town, my soccer, my school, and our planned destinations. But no matter what we see and no matter how bad the November weather is, it will be an extraordinary week. We'll be together, in Germany, and we'll all love every minute of it. I'm so thankful that I get to share my life in Germany with them. And I'm not the only one who's excited. Not a day goes by when the Judson kids don't mention my "mommy and daddy" coming. Izzy is convinced that "Miwanda" is coming too--I guess we just have to wait until the Judsons visit Williamstown again. 

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