Time To Catch Up

Just like that, my Germany adventure is over. I tried to refrain from making a grand exit. I wanted to enjoy the things that I have cherished over the past four months. Nobody is “good” at saying goodbye; we simply take each situation as it comes. In this circumstance, I could only say goodbye with a smile and a hug. Why should I feel sad when I’ve just completed the greatest adventure of my life? There are so many things that I’ll miss, and I know that I’ll cover these in future blog posts. There are people whom I may never see again, and places that will change just as I change. But I know that I’ve found a home in Germany and it will be tough to keep me from coming back. I want to share this country that I know and love with others—go back and recount experiences, see faces and places, and reflect on my irreplaceable autumn of 2012.

With Sebastian and Luc at the Eintract Frankfurt staduim

On that note, I’m happy to be home. I flew over Edinburgh—a last glimpse of Scotland, at least until I return there. I made it safely to New York and felt that true sense of home as I returned to the Berkshires and Williamstown.

My blog certainly does not stop here. I have several posts still to about my final week in Germany, and I’m sure once I settle in here I’ll try to find a way to sum up the whole experience. I need to catch up a bit, just like I look forward to catching up with everyone here at home. I know I’ll be writing about Germany for the next few weeks, and I’ll certainly relate my next adventures to my time across the Atlantic. I’m stuck with these memories for the rest of my life, and they’ll continue to appear in my thoughts, conversations, writing, and my dreams.

For now, a brief thank you to all of those who made my gap year and trip to Germany possible, and to all who reached out to me while I was abroad. It was incredible, and it would’ve been nothing without the old friends and new friends I met along the way.

A final photo from my last snowy day in Bad Homburg

Retracing Memories in Munich

A You'll-Get-The-Point-Eventually Introduction

In 2009 I hadn't yet discovered the power of Google Maps. As I set off with my Dudley buddies for my first trip across the Atlantic, I knew little about where I was heading. My European and German geography skills were more than competent, as I always loved studying maps and answering those "where in the world" questions. For whatever reason, though, I hadn't bothered to zoom in on any of the German cities I'd be seeing. And why bother? My travels would be decided by the group's itinerary, and while racing around the country,  it seemed we didn't have time to remember every little place and street name.

I went back and read through my journal from that trip before flying here in August, and as I read, images and memories flooded back. I wish I had flipped through my photos from that trip, too. What didn't appear were the visual maps that I have accumulated throughout my travels this time around. Though I spent three full days in Berlin that summer--longer than nearly every trip I took over the past four months--I have absolutely no idea what a map of the city looks like. My memories from Berlin are still vivid (and some of my favorite from that summer), but I struggle to organize them geographically.

As a solo traveler, I've had to plan every adventure for myself, which means a lot of time studying Google Maps. When I think of the cities and places I've visited, I picture my favorite sights and unique discoveries. I can't help, though, in visualizing a map of the city. Perhaps I've forever moved on from the innocence of uninformed travel, and that's not all bad. My memories wouldn't be what they are without a little simple preparation prior to my trips.

Still, returning to Munich this past Friday felt like an homage to my former self. I wanted to retrace my steps from 2009, and hopefully uncover some forgotten memories. My glorious summer of tramping around Germany with my Dudley buddies was one of the best of my life. Without it I probably wouldn't be here right now. It felt only right to spend my final day trip in Munich, bringing everything full circle. Except this time, instead of merely being peeking into the beer halls, I'd have free reign to stroll right in.

I think I took a picture of the Rathaus from this exact spot in 2009--still just as impressive!

My Last Day Trip, My Last ICE Train Ride

I don't know if any trains in the US can get up to 320 kilometers-per-hour, but even if they can, I doubt I'll be riding them any time soon. The straight shot to Munich never fails to spark some excitement in me, as we pass through the hills of Wurtzburg, cross state borders, and pick up speed past Nuremberg as Bavaria's capitol draws ever closer. I realized it would be my final day riding the ICEs. German public transportation has treated me well--at least well enough to sip me down to Munich and back in a day. Without fail, I always arrived at my destination, and without fail, I always made it back home.

Though the Christmas Markets were in full swing throughout the city, I spent a shorter amount of time exploring them than any of the other cities' markets. And this had nothing to do with the quality of the stalls, food stands, and Christmas decorations. I wanted to feel the December atmosphere in Munich, but more so I went for the Bavarian atmosphere that I've come to love.

As I retraced my 2009 steps, first to the CVJM Youth Hostel and then towards Marienplatz and the heart of the city, I realized it was too cold to spend all day wandering outside. I would turn onto a street and think, I totally remember this, and then a few seconds later realize, Damn I'm cold. And what better way to warm up than to visit any of Munich's traditional restaurants.

I started my day's feast with a bratwurst, pretzel, and weissbier brunch at Augustiner. Only the Germans have figured out a way to make beer totally appropriate for breakfast. I followed that up a few hours later with a fried potato pancake dish from the market. There I met a couple from the US who have been traveling to Germany in December for over two decades. I haven't seen too many Christmas Markets, but you really have to love German nutcrackers and gluhwein to make these winter festivals a yearly destination.

Two photos of the Alps, looking south from the Munich Rathaus Tower. 

I was limited by hours and cold, but I still managed to see a lot. I made a trip up the Rathaus Tower (something I've become accustomed to) and was struck by a fabulous view of the Alps. Wild, twisted, and covered in snow, the mountains had a certain mystique and allure to them. I wanted to hop on a train heading south to see them up close, but I'll have to save that for another day. Looking out over Munich, I realized that my Dudley friends and I really didn't explore much of the city. It certainly felt like we walked all of the main streets, especially when we were allowed to roam around at night, but I was able to see nearly everything I remembered pretty easily. I guess we had our fun in other ways, like running through the fountain near our hostel. I returned to that spot for a photo and found it covered in a skating rink!

My final Bavarian meal came at the Weisses Brauhaus, where they serve wheat beers from one of my favorite breweries: Schneider Weisse. Somewhere over the course of my schweinhaxe (pork knuckle, you could call it) and my conversation with two older Germans, I discovered my favorite German beer to date. Straight from the source at one of the most traditional and soul-warming places in Munich--it doesn't get much better! I reaffirmed my loved for all things Bavarian, especially when it comes to food and drink.

Back Home, and Soon Really Back Home

Fresh images of Munich flashed through my mind as I thought back to 2009. That trip was one of the greatest adventures I've ever had, but it wasn't necessarily the country that made it so much fun. While I credit most of the fun on that trip to my Dudley leaders and peers, this time around, it's because of the country. After my 2009 summer I had no reason to believe I would return to Germany within three years, but I have come, and I have learned to appreciate so much more. Now, I know that I'll start dreaming about my next Germany trip the minute I arrive home. 

I made it safely home from Munich, and now, my last leg of the adventure draws near. It wasn't easy to write thank you cards on the train ride home, because I knew that once those were finished, my time would nearly be up. 

I fly back this coming Sunday, anticipating my month at home during the holiday season. But it's difficult to say goodbye. I've been touched by so many people and places that it will be hard to suddenly pull the plug. I sincerely hope that Germany doesn't change while I'm gone, for when I return, I want it to be exactly the way I remember it.

The Quintessential German Christmas Town

A Few Notes on Rothenburg ob der Tauber

It's Christmas Season here in Germany, and with my limited travel days remaining, I've planned my trips for the Christmas Markets and December scenery. While there are hundreds of Christmas Markets in Germany, all steeped in tradition, there may be no town more fitting for a winter carnival than Rothenburg ob der Tauber. 

I'm going to let the pictures do a lot of talking, but first, a bit about what I've discovered about the town.  Rothenburg hasn't changed much in half a millenium. The walled town kept its fortifications up and never really bothered to change the interior. Though the town has expanded outside the walls, stepping inside is as close as I've come to time travel. The buildings are uniformly unique--all constructed with half-timbered framework and pasteled siding. Cobblestones make the going interesting, though when the December snow fills in the cracks, walking the streets is even more fun. 

As I left home in the early hours of the morning a week ago, I was greeted by the first real snow of the year. Two inches covered the roads and coated the trees. The ride down was like racing through a black and white scrapbook--one of my favorite train journeys to date. 

I spent the day exploring the streets and snapping photos from covered walkways on top of the town walls. Each shop offered a new souvenir or local delicacy, and though the stores looked ancient from the outside, the insides offered all of the modern facets of the vibrant German lifestyle. The town's Christmas Market occupied the main square near the Town Hall and biggest church, and though not as massive as Frankfurt's or as lively as Heidelberg's, I found nearly every stall to be special. The style of the market certainly matched the atmosphere of the snowy town. From the top of the Rathaus Tower I could see the entire town, its roofs covered in snow. The perfect place to be during December.

With that, here are some photos. These should summarize Rothenburg ob der Tauber and my snowy experience there.

Rathaus Platz with the Christmas Market stalls surrounding the tree.

A decorative display in the market.

The picturesque from the Rathaus Tower, looking down on the centuries-old
houses of the walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

The year-round Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village--but only at it's best in December.

One of many idyllic Christmas sights inside Kathe Wohlfahrt.

The town wall, covered and walkable. To give a sense of size, I walked
ninety percent of it in just over half-an-hour, stopping for photos, of course! 

A perfect view from the wall. It always seems a church dominates the view,
and here the half-timbered houses make the sight even more impressive.

Looking down on the forested valley on the west side of town, which
marks the border between Bavaria and Baden-Wurttemberg. 

Some incredible buildings, the highest being the Rathaus Tower. 

Traditional German nutcracker dolls, found here in every color, shape, and size.

Click here to see all of my photos from Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

LOVES & Hates, Part II

The days growing shorter, my time here nearly finished, 

my love for Germany ever growing

I love Germany. As my time here slips by ever faster, I'm reminded every hour that yes, Germany is incredible, and yes, I made the right choice. Deciding to spend four months away from home is a risk, and I realize now that I knew very little about what I was getting myself into. As my time here is drawing to a close, I really believe that I will forever look at Germany as a home. It's more to me than I even know. I've learned and changed here; I've grown and understood. When I'm home sitting in front of the fire on a chilly Williamstown evening, it will be nice to know that on the other side of the world, I have a place that I love so dearly.

There are many teenagers who get to travel, and many who have seen far more wondrous and exotic places than I. But not many of them have had the chance to live like me. I don't feel exceptional--only grateful for the opportunity I've been given.

I took Luc and Sebastian to the Frankfurt Christmas Market. They loved it. 

LOVES & Hates, Ten Days To Go

With that, I want to add to my LOVES & Hates list that I started back in September. I wish that I had updated it each month, because there are so many little pieces of Germany that I've fallen in love with. With these additions I will probably skip over things I love the most, because they've become obvious parts of my everyday routine. Still, these details are the ones I cherish, because they're the ones normal travelers rarely experience. I'm lucky to experience all that I have. I'm making the most of every day, because all too soon I won't have these things at the tips of my fingers. For now, that makes them all the more special.

Snowy rooftops in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the quintessential German town

LOVES

• HOT Hot Chocolate - I've found my favorite drink. Ever. It's not apple cider or orange juice or a latte or chai tea. It's not a smoothy or an Arnold Palmer (which I enjoyed discovering at a Frankfurt grocery store) or even one of the many fantastic German beers I've sampled. No, it's the hot chocolate with chili powder from Chocolate Plus (which happens to also be my favorite store in Bad Homburg). They serve the steaming drink with a complimentary truffel, which alone is mouthwatering. On the chilly, grey afternoons, I make a point to stop for a drink that warms my spirit.
• Biking in the Snow - Though I've biked in the rain plenty of times, I had my first snow-biking adventure this past Monday. We've received exactly two inches of snow two times, and during one of those I happened to be returning home on my bike. I could've placed this experience in either category, but since I'm in Germany and I'll look for the silver lining in any event, I officially love biking in the snow. At least that one time.
• Izzy's Facial Expressions - It's fun that the cutest and funniest in the Judson household is often the youngest. Izzy has a face for every mood, and no matter what she's conveying, I just have to laugh. 
• Reading on the Train - I love riding the trains. They're easy to figure out, usually timely, and fairly convenient. Plus, Germany isn't as flat as I thought it was, and whether it be the trees of the Black Forest, the hills of Lower Saxony, or the picturesque towns of Bavaria, there's always good scenery. But I've found the train rides useful for other things, too. This past week I finished two books, and the majority of my reading time was on the train. 
• The Other Kind of Football - From Monday to Saturday, I focus much of my time and energy on the German type of football, but come Sunday night, there's nothing I would rather be doing that watching the NFL. I know this is not exactly an aspect of German culture, but since I do devote late Sunday evenings to watching the Patriots and following my fantasy team, I thought I'd mention it. Also, I love being the only one awake at 4:34 EST on Thursdays when the weekly waivers go through, so I can jump on any player not grabbed on the waiver wire. 
• Spending Less Than I Thought I Would - I've been keeping pretty detailed records of my spending, and after entering the November totals into my spreadsheet, it was nice to see that a) my original budget was fairly accurate, and b) I'll spend less than I my predictions. 
• Anticipation of a Trip - I've made all sorts of journeys over the past four months, and still, there's nothing more exciting to me than waking up early and making my way to the train station. I enjoy planning for a trip and asking myself, "What does this city offer that interests me?" At the same time, I'm so comfortable with travel by now that I don't feel it necessary to plan my trips minute by minute. There's nothing better than exploring somewhere new, discovering what it's all about, and finding the little details that make it special. 
• Wheat Thins - My go-to snack cracker, I survived for over three months before my parents brought me a box when they visited. It was my only request from home, and over the course of last week, I savored the crackers, pairing them with a delicious gorgonzola cheese that we had purchased in Oberursel. 
• The Undeniable Christmas Feeling - With cold temperatures gracing central Germany and already a total of four inches of snow (gone by now, of course), December actually feels like winter. Couple that with the opening of Christmas Markets in nearly every town and city, and Germany has an palpable Christmas spirit in the air. 
• That I Still Have Ten Days to Do Everything I Love At Least One More Time - My love list could go on and on, and I'm sure that when I get back, I'll begin to generate a list of "things I miss the most." But for now, I still have time to enjoy my favorite parts of Germany, Bad Homburg, and living with the Judsons. It will, like the previous sixteen weeks, go by too fast,  but I'm going to stop as many times as I can along the way to have that final conversation or savor that final cup of hot chocolate. 

Hates

• Daylight (Or Lack Thereof) - Even here in central Germany, we're farther north than any point in the Lower 48. The days have felt short since late October when we turned the clocks back, and now it feels like I barely see the sun. Late autumn weather in Germany isn't exactly splendid--lots of grey and lots of rain--and that just adds to the gloom. At least the Christmas Markets are gorgeous at dark, and at least I'm not in northern Scotland or Scandinavia right now. (Wouldn't mind going there in June though!)
• An Abrupt End to the Soccer Season - I actually feel a little bit strongly about this one. After having a men's team training canceled Monday because of the snow, I heard yesterday that the league has already called off all matches scheduled for this weekend. I don't know if they're looking to get an early start on Christmas travels or if they actually trust the long range weather forecast, but canceling a match four days in advance is ridiculous. And it's not just any match--it's my last game! So, my German soccer season ends in a terrible anticlimax. I will still train with both of my teams and have the chance to say goodbye, but I'm disappointed about the game. I thought the Germans were tougher than that!
• That I Have to Say Goodbye - Germany and it's sights, food, and traditions will always be here, but many of the people I've had the privilege of meeting will go their own ways over the course of the next few years. I have no idea when I'll come back, and even when I do, it will be difficult to see everyone. I will keep in touch with my closest friends, but for many others, saying goodbye this coming week might be the final goodbye. I've learned from all of them, and I can't thank them enough for making my time here so incredible. I'll miss many things about Germany, but ultimately, it's the people whom I'll miss most. 

Familiar Travels: Highlights From A Week With Mom & Dad

In my previous post, I wrote about the joy that was spending six days with my parents here in Germany. It was a tremendous effort on their part, and I was so proud to share my new home with them. I also featured a guest post from my mom on the blog, and she touched on just about everything that made the time together so special. Both posts allude to some of our travels, but I haven't divulged full details about our jam packed days and eye-opening trips. 

I haven't heard from my parents what their absolute favorite part of the trip was, but I'm going to venture out and offer my own highlights. I'm sure their opinions aren't too far off. The list goes in chronological order, and while there is a whole lot I can't fit in, these will make a pretty decent summary of our adventures. 

Monday

The delightful displays in my favorite Bad Homburg chocolate shop

As we walked from Kirdorf into the Bad Homburg Altstadt on the first evening, the grey skies opened up to unveil a glorious sunset. Though the sheer excitement of having them in Germany with me was the ultimate highlight, our best stop was at Chocolate Plus--a one-of-a-kind handcrafted chocolate shop near the center of the city. I definitely get my love of chocolate from my mom, but at store like this one, we all drooling over the chocolates and hot drinks. 

Tuesday

On a day where we shared our time between Frankfurt and Mainz--the two closest big cities--the grey skies couldn't stop us from seeing and eating to our hearts' content. My favorite stop in Mainz was our lunch spot, a brewery called Eisgrub-Brau. Located in an old vaulted ice cellar with arched ceilings, the pub served big plates of traditional German food and offered a warm atmosphere. My parents couldn't go to Germany and not try Bratwurst and Sauerkraut!  

My Dad's first real German meal

The highlight from Frankfurt was a new adventure for me. After a lovely dinner of Flammkuchen and soup on Frankfurt's Burger Strasse, we met Nina and Simon for an evening at the English Theater. The small performance center does, as you guessed, plays and musicals in English. We happened to see a musical called "Sweet Charity." I'd never heard of it, but without going into the details, I found it to be incredibly entertaining. I never really appreciated professional stage acting until I saw "Death of a Salesman" on Broadway last spring with my AP English class. While the English Theater in Frankfurt is a little different than Broadway, I enjoyed the play start to finish. Heck, I haven't seen a musical by anyone older than high school students since I saw "The Lion King" half-a-dozen years ago. "Sweet Charity" capped off a busy and successful Tuesday. 

Wednesday

As I mentioned in my last post, we were able to visit Accadis and spend some time with the head P.E. teacher Darryl Cromier. I have spent a lot of time helping Darryl in his sports classes and we've developed a bond that I know will continue even after I leave. When I visited with my parents on Wednesday morning, he took his whole break period to talk with us and give a tour of the school. They got to see how fortunate I am to have landed at Accadis and that I get to spend my days with Darryl. By the end of our tour, they loved the school, and I was even prouder to be a volunteer there. 

Thursday

We left for Heidelberg in foggy skies, but as soon as we drove south of Frankfurt, the sun started peeking out. Soon there was plenty of blue, and by the time we reached our destination, there was not a cloud in the sky. Though it was about thirty degrees colder than my last visit in early September, the clear blue skies hadn't changed a bit. 

Panorama from the Heidelberg Castle in late afternoon

It's impossible to pick a favorite moment from the day, since our stops ranged from incredible stores along the Hauptstrasse to five different Christmas Markets to unforgettable breweries and eateries. I took my second trip to the famous Heidelberg Schoss (castle), this time via the steepest railway I've ever been on. We walked out to a lookout near the castle and enjoyed the full scope and beauty of the city in the orange sunset. 

I'm going to write about the different Christmas Markets I visit in another post, but for now, I loved the atmosphere and stalls in all of the Heidelberg markets. They gave wandering around the Altstadt a purpose, and between our meals we filled the time with stall-gazing and gift buying. I loved Heidelberg during my first visit, but that was back when I didn't know anything about German travel. Coming back with my parents confirmed my appreciation for the city and all of the big and not-so-big details that make it special.

Friday

I wrote earlier about our highly anticipated trip to Cologne. I'd never been to to city besides a transfer at the train station, but even the few glimpses I got left me yearning to spend a day there. We took the scenic route up--over the Taunus hills and down to Koblenz where we hit the Rhine. From there we chose the low road, which wound its way along the wide river. We saw the quaint German towns, steep hills lined with rows and rows of grapevines, and the occasional castle or palace. 

Cologne itself was a treat, despite the only rain of the entire week. There isn't the ancient feel of Heidelberg, but the tradeoff is incredible shopping streets, unique museums, and plenty of sights. One of the most jaw-dropping of these was the Hohenzollern Bridge and its locks. It's become a tradition for partners to engrave their names on a lock and attach it to the bridge's fencing. There's not an inch of space, and the bridge stretches 400 meters over the Rhine! 

And of course, there's the Dom. It was the single most impressive thing I've seen in Germany. I can say all I want about its size, design, and omnipresence, but it really has to seen to be believed. Considering that every inch of the cathedral was carved, sculpted, and arranged down to the tiniest details, I understand why it took so long to complete. (There were long breaks in the 600 years of building, though). I wish I had known a little bit more about the stained glass pictures and narratives described in the Dom's artwork, but at the very least, the time we spent there was unforgettable. 

Each arched doorway is decorated with the most intricate stone carvings

Lastly, despite some transportation issues, we reached the FC Koln stadium for an evening soccer match versus Bochum. Everyone came out for the Friday night football fest, and the big stadium was mostly filled by the 40,000 in attendance. We got to see a few goals, which each came with raucous celebration. I've now been to three games (in Stuttgart, Edinburgh, and Cologne) and the feel in the Koln stadium was the most fun. The match finished 3-1 to the home side, and though we got home late, it was well worth the effort. 

Saturday

I wrote about one of Saturday's highlights in my previous post, that being my soccer match. It was a fun game for my parents (and the whole Judson family) to see, and my teammates made me feel like it was my night. 

For our final evening together, we joined Nina and Simon for a goose dinner at a cozy restaurant in Bad Homburg's Altstadt. I'd seen hundreds of half-timbered buildings but had never been inside one. The inside looked just as old as the outside, but in an elegant way that made our final dinner special. The goose was one of the best meals I've had in Germany. Though we didn't celebrate Thanksgiving with turkey, the goose was a delectable substitute. 

Those were the moments I enjoyed most about the week: when all of us knew it was late in the evening, but we simply couldn't stop talking. Even though our families haven't spent too much time together, it feels like we've all been friends for years. I'm very lucky to have Nina and Simon looking out for me, and it certainly makes it easier on my parents. Still, there's nothing better than being with family. It was a week none of us will forget. 

Click here for all of the photos from my week in Germany with my parents.

Through Your Eyes (GBP)

A guest post from my Mom, Jessica Dils

Probably the greatest joy in becoming a parent is suddenly seeing the world anew—all of the little things that have slowly become muted take on new importance, new brightness, new focus, new light. The soft fur of a puppy, the sour bite of a lemon, the gentle cold of a snowflake, the ringing call of a bell. You hold your child’s hand and you teach him the world—or at least as much of the world that fits in his small grasp.

At each birthday there is more for him to discover, more bewildering things to teach and explain. The things you’ve had to learn for yourself once feel sharper—almost magnified—the second time through. Fevers and bruises, unfair teachers, unkind friends, heart-racing crushes. As a mom, I felt real fear for the first time—fear of the vast, dangerous, complicated, extraordinary world—one that would eventually have more power over my child than I knew I possibly could.

Little by little and then all of a sudden there is the growing up and the letting go.  The first babysitter, a morning at preschool, the bus ride to kindergarten, a field trip without you. Overnights and test grades and wins and losses—successes and failures and each new day. Somehow you have to learn to trust someone else to ensure that your boy is safe and kind. Camp for four weeks. Camp for eight weeks. Sunscreen instructions. Letters home. Without much warning he’s behind the wheel, taking the car out for the very first time, navigating away from you as you try to have faith in all that you’ve given him along the way.

I have never had more faith than I do this week, having spent Thanksgiving in Germany with Tom. Nobody tells you about this new stage of parenting, the part when instead of you holding his hand and seeing the world new through his young eyes, he reaches over and takes your hand and is perfectly capable of leading the way.

Tommy showed us things this week that we’ve never seen. Things he’s discovered all on his own over the past four months, finding them vast, and dangerous, and complicated, and extraordinary. Where to find the best croissant on his early morning walk into his new village home of Kirdorf. How to cook us a morning Weisswurst and serve it with warm pretzels and sweet tangy mustard—German style. How to ride his bike from one end of Bad Homburg to the other in order to get to school three days a week, and how to time the buses just right if the weather is too rainy or cold for pedaling. How to take the U-Bahn, the S-Bahn and the ICE trains into Frankfurt, Mainz, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Hanover, Bamberg, Nuremberg and home again. How to fly to Scotland, rent some clubs, play two rounds of golf on some of the world’s best courses and reach out to strangers who soon become friends. How to order a “Kölsch” beer completely in German and distinguish between the vast array of Alts and Lagers, keeping track of each one’s subtle complexities. How to join a “football” team, train with a second, and shout out German commands as a steady, poised back, and then huddle with his teammates at the end of a game and belt out the ritual of the feisty call-and-response cheer. How to plan a day trip by car to the city of Cologne (Köln) and steer his Dad smoothly past the vineyards and castles along the Rhine’s scenic route without one wrong turn. How to embrace a new family who has learned to love him as he has reached out to each special Judson member: Izzy, Alex, Sebastian, Luc, Simon, and his other mom, Nina. The part that makes me most proud as his Mom, the part that kindles that faith I have in him, is that for Tom, at the end of any given day—filled with travel, adventure, exploration and independence—the most cherished part of his four months away from home is the new home and family that’s always waiting for him.  

A family photo I forgot about from back in October

Sharing all of this with us has given Tom a whole new perspective—the kind a new parent might discover through her child—as he says in his most recent post: “Traveling and seeing the sights from their perspective opened up so many new things for me.”

We’ve somehow come full circle—launched him out into the world through trust and hope and faith and love. We’ve watched him take in the world for so long through his eyes; now he’s learned to take it all in through ours.

Thanks for all that you’ve shared with us, Tom. 

A Week with Mom & Dad

Back in August when I was preparing for my adventure, I never considered the possibility of my parents visiting Bad Homburg. I knew that the four months would fly by, and I'd be coming home for Christmas for some well-deserved family time. 

Fast forward to the present. I just spent an outstanding six days with my parents, and now I can't imagine my Germany experience without their visit. It's one thing to write blog posts and make FaceTime calls, both of which I've enjoyed immensely. However, there's been nothing I've valued more than having them here with me and being able to share the life I've lived since mid-August. 

Together, enjoying the sunset in Heidelberg

We packed six days with laughs, sights, long conversations, and plenty of good meals. The Judson kids took to my parents right away, and every morning it seemed Izzy or Alex had a new idea for a game with them. Both of them asked me this morning where my parents had gone, and it was a little sad for all of us when I said they had to fly home. 

Finally got a photo with Darryl

More and more, I've come to realize hom instrumental Nina and Simon have been to my experience. I hope that in our lengthy after-dinner conversations, my parents saw how kind they've been to me. Nina and Simon have given me freedom to explore and responsibility as part of the family. At the end of the day, having a home to sleep in is the greatest part of my Germany trip. 

I was able to show off more than just my home life; soccer, a tour of Accadis, and some walks around Bad Homburg were all slated in. We spent nearly an hour with Darryl touring my school and talking about sports, Germany, travel, and the work I've done. It's been my pleasure to help out with Darryl's sports classes and to be a part of the school community. 

They also saw me play soccer twice--once with the mens team and then during my junior team's Saturday match against Konigstein. Both turned out to be perfect examples of my playing experience here. During the past few weeks the mens trainer has unveiled some unique drills, and we did another on on Wednesday with my parents watching. We also scrimmaged full field for over half of practice, which is also typical of those sessions. Tired from a long week of travel, I played with mostly adrenalin in my junior team game. Everyone on my squad came out to play, as we looked to take points off Konigstein--one ahead of us in the table. We scored early, and though our opponents put pressure on, our breaks kept coming and theirs never quite worked. The score ended up being 7-0, and probably the closest 7-0 game I've ever been a part of. My team wanted it to be my evening, and they even gave me the captains band for the final twenty minutes (see photo above). I finally got some photos of me playing soccer. Despite the orange jerseys (normally we're red, white, or black--crazy Germans), I'll hold onto those photos forever. 

My mom told me that now when she reads my blog, she'll be able to picture everything I'm doing. My parents saw Bad Homburg, and though they'll never know it like me, they have a sense of my German home. Now my parents have such a stronger understanding of what I've been up to, and that's why I can't imagine my Germany experience without their visit. The planning allowed me to discover new places as I prepared for the visit. I've become so comfortable with travel in Germany that I often ignore some really cool things. As a solo wanderer I tend to walk fast and always have a destination in mind. Traveling and seeing the sights from their perspective opened up so many new things for me. It makes me realize that I will never be "done" with Germany; no matter what, there will always be more to enjoy. I also see how traveling with family and friends can be so amazing. Even though I've been living with my parents for seventeen-plus years, our week in Germany together brought us even closer. 

A pretty damn impressive tree in Bad Homburg. We hit (mostly) gorgeous weather  during
the week. Not bad for a month where every other week has been dreadfully grey and rainy. 

In my next post I'm going to list some of the high points of the week including our travels in and around Bad Homburg and the Frankfurt area, as well as our day trips to Heidelberg and Cologne. For now, I'm so thankful we got to share this experience. It's something we'll remember forever. I'm looking forward to coming home, but I'd be insane to look past my final three weeks here. 

Dusseldorf and Lofty Expectations

Is it fair to say that one of the highlights of my recent day trip to Dusseldorf was the transfer in Cologne? Let me explain.

Another Fast-Paced Day Trip

I've come to love the freedom and flexibility that comes with sitting down in the evening and pondering the question, "Where to next?" (Don't worry, I'm not day-tripping every day, and I'm certainly not skipping out on my teaching and soccer commitments). Not wanting to waste any of my allotted travel days on my Eurail pass, I decided half a day in Dusseldorf would be a reasonable adventure. 

The waterway separating the streets of the Konigsallee, Dusseldorf's upscale shopping street.
I felt out of place just walking it, and I received glares from security guards as I peered in the windows. 

Before I get to the city, I'll explain what I wrote in the opening line. I had a short transfer in Cologne (one that required some running), but pulling into the Hauptbahnhof we passed fewer than fifty yards from the Cologne Dom. I had researched the famous cathedral, and I've been patient enough to wait for my parents' visit to explore Cologne. Still, as we made the turn and the Dom came into view, I wanted to get out right then and there and cancel my Dusseldorf plans. Luckily I made my connecting train and was soon arriving at my intended destination, but the glimpse of Cologne's greatest monument was something special. My parents and I will make the trip this coming Friday. Seeing the Dom will be even better with them.

Fresh produce at the farmers' market, even in November!

My expectations were not high, and there was no reason for them to be. I was attempting to squeeze in another adventure, with the chance that something memorable might unveil itself during the day. Dusseldorf is a nice city, but I could describe it just like many of the not-so-unique cities in Germany. For example: there's a big street with lots of places to buy things that are way too expensive for my budget; there's a small Altstadt area with cobblestone streets; a river (The Rhine) plays a predominant role in the city's layout; and there are lots of enticing places to eat. It all sounds nice, but nothing about those descriptions make Dusseldorf special.

What did make it special was meeting Kent Shultz, whom I bumped into while grabbing some lunch. I heard him struggling with a waiter who knew little English, and offered my limited assistance. My gesture turned out meaning more than I could have ever expected. Kent explained to me that it was his first time in Europe and that he had only landed in Dusseldorf a few hours ago. I didn't ask what he did or where he went to college (it was pretty clear that he was a fairly recent graduate), but those details didn't matter so much to me. I wanted to know why he was in Dusseldorf, and I soon found out.

Kent is a semi-obsessed home-brewer living in San Diego. He's only been at it for a few years, but he told me he's found a lot of success (with plenty of failures, too). He explained that he's been brewing a lot of English and German style beers, but he'd never traveled to try the authentic product. So, he jumped at the opportunity to spend two weeks in Europe--mostly in England but with a few days in Germany--in attempt to sample brews and learn more about the craft.

He spoke not a word of German, so I told him that though my Deutsch is still poor and my knowledge of Dusseldorf's breweries even poorer, I'd be happy to accompany him during the afternoon visiting the different breweries. I had already passed two that looked authentic--Uerige and Schumacher--so we set off.

A statue outside the Uerige Brewery, with the "U" carved into the base.

I found we complemented each other quite well. With three months of experience, I knew a fair amount about travel in Germany. By now I'm very confident with my navigation skills and understanding of the public transport system. Kent, as this was his first time in Germany, definitely looked a little lost. Once we sat down at a brewery, however, he was in his element. Most of what he said right over my head, but it was a good learning experience listening to someone who could pick up the nuances when comparing the different "altbier" brews. (Altbier is the style specific to Dusseldorf, and the city has four authentic breweries still in operation).

Since I had training back in Bad Homburg that evening, I didn't stay with Kent as long as I would've liked. Still, it was the type of random encounter that I've come to love about traveling in Europe. Meeting Kent made my brief Dusseldorf experience memorable, and that's all I can ask.

Click here to see all of my photos from Dusseldorf.

Back to Bad Homburg, Getting Ready

I passed through Cologne again on my way home. The expectations are certainly high for when I visit the city with my parents. I have high expectations for their entire visit, for that matter. And why wouldn't I? It'll be the first time I've seen them in over three months. By now I'm confident that I can be a decent tour guide as I show them my town, my soccer, my school, and our planned destinations. But no matter what we see and no matter how bad the November weather is, it will be an extraordinary week. We'll be together, in Germany, and we'll all love every minute of it. I'm so thankful that I get to share my life in Germany with them. And I'm not the only one who's excited. Not a day goes by when the Judson kids don't mention my "mommy and daddy" coming. Izzy is convinced that "Miwanda" is coming too--I guess we just have to wait until the Judsons visit Williamstown again. 

Bamberg: A True Bavarian City

I've finished most of my big travels, but with plenty of time left in Germany and some days still available on my Eurail train pass, it's time for a series of day trips. This past Friday, with the best weather November has offered so far, I rose early to make the trip to Bamberg. Located in Bavaria's northwest region called Franconia, Bamberg is a beautifully preserved city that exemplifies the German and more specifically Bavarian way of life.

Would you rather visit a city with enough Medieval buildings to merit a UNSECO World Heritage Site distinction, or a city featuring the most breweries per capita in the world? Fortunately for me, there was no decision necessary.

Starting With the Architecture... 

Even though Bamberg is only slightly bigger than Bad Homburg, it feels like a real city. Perhaps it's because the Altstadt is really an island in the Regnitz River. Everything is compact; the jumbled streets and riverfront houses squeeze into the river valley below the seven hills of Bamberg. I managed to capture two of my favorite photos of my entire time in Germany as I wandered through the Altstadt.

The first photo is of the Old Town Hall (Alt Rathaus). It's incredible how the half-timbered section of the building hangs over the river, and equally as impressive are the colorful murals and baroque sculpture on the sides. Walking down the river only a hundred meters or so, I found myself staring across at the most picturesque riverfront scene I've ever seen. It's no surprise that this stretch of town is called "Little Venice." The panorama I shot here is one of my favorite photos I've ever taken. (Click the photo for a bigger version). 

Though it was a quick-stop-here, quick-stop-there type of day, I was wowed by the city. The sights and atmosphere alone make me want to return. Some places have a certain timeless feel to them. Though I love United States history, we're lacking a bit on the age front. Everything in America tends to grow and expand, while a place like Bamberg feels like it has and never will change. I know I'm exaggerating, but it's the only way to describe the city.

The baroque-style New Palace; it's only been around for four hundred years. 

Bamberg's Brewing Tradition

I promised to get to the part about Bamberg's brewing tradition. First a few thoughts: almost all German beer fits into either the pilsner or weissbier categories. While I've found some great versions of those styles, the average German beer can be pretty underwhelming. Though Germans brew dozens of kinds of beer, it's often difficult to find variety.

Schlenkerla: Rauchbier has been brewed here for centuries

Getting to sample a city or region's beer is an awesome perk to traveling within the country. And what better place to stop than Bamberg. I've enjoyed learning about brewing history as much and if not more  than sampling drinks, so preparing for my Bamberg trip was a lot of fun. The city houses nine breweries, many of which sit in the long established quarters of the Old Town. In alphabetical order: Ambrausianum, Fassla, Greifenklau, Kaiserdom, Keesmann, Klosterbrau, Mahr's Brau, Spezial, and Schlenkerla. With so many options, the styles available cover the entire scope of German beers.

Brauerei zum Spezial: Bamberg's other Rauchbier brewer

I loved the unobtrusive building fronts and classic interiors. Small rooms, low ceilings, views of the tap from everywhere, stained glass windows--the restaurants fit their purpose beautifully. They connect to the main brewery operation, making supporting the local industry irresistible. And the breweries only sell their product within the confines of the city.

The city is any beer lover's paradise, and whats more, it's the home of an obscure and perhaps polarizing type of brew: Rauchbier. Literally, "smoke beer," it's deliciously unlike any other beer. Only Schlenkerla and Spezial produce the style. Some may be disgusted by the smoky aroma and slight bacon flavor, but I was not one of them.

A Few Thoughts About Bavaria

Bavaria is just a little different from the rest of the country. I would be lying if I said that the culture and lifestyle of, say, Frankfurt, does not differ from that of Hamburg or Berlin, but Bavaria and it's capitol of Munich stand out. It's kind of like the Texas of Germany, except with incredible scenery, picturesque old cities, and a strong beer culture. I can't really comment on Texas, though. 

I've been told that the people in Germany's largest state consider themselves to be Bavarians, not Germans. There's a certain laid back feeling that I get in Bavaria. The people seem to be casual, friendly, and liberal in their politics and the amount of beer they consume. 

The beer culture is apparent, even in a country where beer is the national drink. It's possible to get Bavarian beers all over Germany, but the true gems have to be sought out. That's why I will never see a Mahr's Brau beer being sold in Frankfurt. It's also why travel and beer in Germany go hand in hand. 

We'll see if I make it back to Bavaria during this trip. I'd never pass up the chance to go back, and I know I will return eventually. I've been to the most popular destinations and seen some of the best sights. Munich, Nuremberg, and Bamberg are all places where I would be happy to spend a week exploring the little details that are impossible to catch in a day or weekend trip. But for now, I've enjoyed every hour I've spent in Germany's biggest and possibly my favorite state.