Through Your Eyes (GBP)

A guest post from my Mom, Jessica Dils

Probably the greatest joy in becoming a parent is suddenly seeing the world anew—all of the little things that have slowly become muted take on new importance, new brightness, new focus, new light. The soft fur of a puppy, the sour bite of a lemon, the gentle cold of a snowflake, the ringing call of a bell. You hold your child’s hand and you teach him the world—or at least as much of the world that fits in his small grasp.

At each birthday there is more for him to discover, more bewildering things to teach and explain. The things you’ve had to learn for yourself once feel sharper—almost magnified—the second time through. Fevers and bruises, unfair teachers, unkind friends, heart-racing crushes. As a mom, I felt real fear for the first time—fear of the vast, dangerous, complicated, extraordinary world—one that would eventually have more power over my child than I knew I possibly could.

Little by little and then all of a sudden there is the growing up and the letting go.  The first babysitter, a morning at preschool, the bus ride to kindergarten, a field trip without you. Overnights and test grades and wins and losses—successes and failures and each new day. Somehow you have to learn to trust someone else to ensure that your boy is safe and kind. Camp for four weeks. Camp for eight weeks. Sunscreen instructions. Letters home. Without much warning he’s behind the wheel, taking the car out for the very first time, navigating away from you as you try to have faith in all that you’ve given him along the way.

I have never had more faith than I do this week, having spent Thanksgiving in Germany with Tom. Nobody tells you about this new stage of parenting, the part when instead of you holding his hand and seeing the world new through his young eyes, he reaches over and takes your hand and is perfectly capable of leading the way.

Tommy showed us things this week that we’ve never seen. Things he’s discovered all on his own over the past four months, finding them vast, and dangerous, and complicated, and extraordinary. Where to find the best croissant on his early morning walk into his new village home of Kirdorf. How to cook us a morning Weisswurst and serve it with warm pretzels and sweet tangy mustard—German style. How to ride his bike from one end of Bad Homburg to the other in order to get to school three days a week, and how to time the buses just right if the weather is too rainy or cold for pedaling. How to take the U-Bahn, the S-Bahn and the ICE trains into Frankfurt, Mainz, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Hanover, Bamberg, Nuremberg and home again. How to fly to Scotland, rent some clubs, play two rounds of golf on some of the world’s best courses and reach out to strangers who soon become friends. How to order a “Kölsch” beer completely in German and distinguish between the vast array of Alts and Lagers, keeping track of each one’s subtle complexities. How to join a “football” team, train with a second, and shout out German commands as a steady, poised back, and then huddle with his teammates at the end of a game and belt out the ritual of the feisty call-and-response cheer. How to plan a day trip by car to the city of Cologne (Köln) and steer his Dad smoothly past the vineyards and castles along the Rhine’s scenic route without one wrong turn. How to embrace a new family who has learned to love him as he has reached out to each special Judson member: Izzy, Alex, Sebastian, Luc, Simon, and his other mom, Nina. The part that makes me most proud as his Mom, the part that kindles that faith I have in him, is that for Tom, at the end of any given day—filled with travel, adventure, exploration and independence—the most cherished part of his four months away from home is the new home and family that’s always waiting for him.  

A family photo I forgot about from back in October

Sharing all of this with us has given Tom a whole new perspective—the kind a new parent might discover through her child—as he says in his most recent post: “Traveling and seeing the sights from their perspective opened up so many new things for me.”

We’ve somehow come full circle—launched him out into the world through trust and hope and faith and love. We’ve watched him take in the world for so long through his eyes; now he’s learned to take it all in through ours.

Thanks for all that you’ve shared with us, Tom. 

A Week with Mom & Dad

Back in August when I was preparing for my adventure, I never considered the possibility of my parents visiting Bad Homburg. I knew that the four months would fly by, and I'd be coming home for Christmas for some well-deserved family time. 

Fast forward to the present. I just spent an outstanding six days with my parents, and now I can't imagine my Germany experience without their visit. It's one thing to write blog posts and make FaceTime calls, both of which I've enjoyed immensely. However, there's been nothing I've valued more than having them here with me and being able to share the life I've lived since mid-August. 

Together, enjoying the sunset in Heidelberg

We packed six days with laughs, sights, long conversations, and plenty of good meals. The Judson kids took to my parents right away, and every morning it seemed Izzy or Alex had a new idea for a game with them. Both of them asked me this morning where my parents had gone, and it was a little sad for all of us when I said they had to fly home. 

Finally got a photo with Darryl

More and more, I've come to realize hom instrumental Nina and Simon have been to my experience. I hope that in our lengthy after-dinner conversations, my parents saw how kind they've been to me. Nina and Simon have given me freedom to explore and responsibility as part of the family. At the end of the day, having a home to sleep in is the greatest part of my Germany trip. 

I was able to show off more than just my home life; soccer, a tour of Accadis, and some walks around Bad Homburg were all slated in. We spent nearly an hour with Darryl touring my school and talking about sports, Germany, travel, and the work I've done. It's been my pleasure to help out with Darryl's sports classes and to be a part of the school community. 

They also saw me play soccer twice--once with the mens team and then during my junior team's Saturday match against Konigstein. Both turned out to be perfect examples of my playing experience here. During the past few weeks the mens trainer has unveiled some unique drills, and we did another on on Wednesday with my parents watching. We also scrimmaged full field for over half of practice, which is also typical of those sessions. Tired from a long week of travel, I played with mostly adrenalin in my junior team game. Everyone on my squad came out to play, as we looked to take points off Konigstein--one ahead of us in the table. We scored early, and though our opponents put pressure on, our breaks kept coming and theirs never quite worked. The score ended up being 7-0, and probably the closest 7-0 game I've ever been a part of. My team wanted it to be my evening, and they even gave me the captains band for the final twenty minutes (see photo above). I finally got some photos of me playing soccer. Despite the orange jerseys (normally we're red, white, or black--crazy Germans), I'll hold onto those photos forever. 

My mom told me that now when she reads my blog, she'll be able to picture everything I'm doing. My parents saw Bad Homburg, and though they'll never know it like me, they have a sense of my German home. Now my parents have such a stronger understanding of what I've been up to, and that's why I can't imagine my Germany experience without their visit. The planning allowed me to discover new places as I prepared for the visit. I've become so comfortable with travel in Germany that I often ignore some really cool things. As a solo wanderer I tend to walk fast and always have a destination in mind. Traveling and seeing the sights from their perspective opened up so many new things for me. It makes me realize that I will never be "done" with Germany; no matter what, there will always be more to enjoy. I also see how traveling with family and friends can be so amazing. Even though I've been living with my parents for seventeen-plus years, our week in Germany together brought us even closer. 

A pretty damn impressive tree in Bad Homburg. We hit (mostly) gorgeous weather  during
the week. Not bad for a month where every other week has been dreadfully grey and rainy. 

In my next post I'm going to list some of the high points of the week including our travels in and around Bad Homburg and the Frankfurt area, as well as our day trips to Heidelberg and Cologne. For now, I'm so thankful we got to share this experience. It's something we'll remember forever. I'm looking forward to coming home, but I'd be insane to look past my final three weeks here. 

Dusseldorf and Lofty Expectations

Is it fair to say that one of the highlights of my recent day trip to Dusseldorf was the transfer in Cologne? Let me explain.

Another Fast-Paced Day Trip

I've come to love the freedom and flexibility that comes with sitting down in the evening and pondering the question, "Where to next?" (Don't worry, I'm not day-tripping every day, and I'm certainly not skipping out on my teaching and soccer commitments). Not wanting to waste any of my allotted travel days on my Eurail pass, I decided half a day in Dusseldorf would be a reasonable adventure. 

The waterway separating the streets of the Konigsallee, Dusseldorf's upscale shopping street.
I felt out of place just walking it, and I received glares from security guards as I peered in the windows. 

Before I get to the city, I'll explain what I wrote in the opening line. I had a short transfer in Cologne (one that required some running), but pulling into the Hauptbahnhof we passed fewer than fifty yards from the Cologne Dom. I had researched the famous cathedral, and I've been patient enough to wait for my parents' visit to explore Cologne. Still, as we made the turn and the Dom came into view, I wanted to get out right then and there and cancel my Dusseldorf plans. Luckily I made my connecting train and was soon arriving at my intended destination, but the glimpse of Cologne's greatest monument was something special. My parents and I will make the trip this coming Friday. Seeing the Dom will be even better with them.

Fresh produce at the farmers' market, even in November!

My expectations were not high, and there was no reason for them to be. I was attempting to squeeze in another adventure, with the chance that something memorable might unveil itself during the day. Dusseldorf is a nice city, but I could describe it just like many of the not-so-unique cities in Germany. For example: there's a big street with lots of places to buy things that are way too expensive for my budget; there's a small Altstadt area with cobblestone streets; a river (The Rhine) plays a predominant role in the city's layout; and there are lots of enticing places to eat. It all sounds nice, but nothing about those descriptions make Dusseldorf special.

What did make it special was meeting Kent Shultz, whom I bumped into while grabbing some lunch. I heard him struggling with a waiter who knew little English, and offered my limited assistance. My gesture turned out meaning more than I could have ever expected. Kent explained to me that it was his first time in Europe and that he had only landed in Dusseldorf a few hours ago. I didn't ask what he did or where he went to college (it was pretty clear that he was a fairly recent graduate), but those details didn't matter so much to me. I wanted to know why he was in Dusseldorf, and I soon found out.

Kent is a semi-obsessed home-brewer living in San Diego. He's only been at it for a few years, but he told me he's found a lot of success (with plenty of failures, too). He explained that he's been brewing a lot of English and German style beers, but he'd never traveled to try the authentic product. So, he jumped at the opportunity to spend two weeks in Europe--mostly in England but with a few days in Germany--in attempt to sample brews and learn more about the craft.

He spoke not a word of German, so I told him that though my Deutsch is still poor and my knowledge of Dusseldorf's breweries even poorer, I'd be happy to accompany him during the afternoon visiting the different breweries. I had already passed two that looked authentic--Uerige and Schumacher--so we set off.

A statue outside the Uerige Brewery, with the "U" carved into the base.

I found we complemented each other quite well. With three months of experience, I knew a fair amount about travel in Germany. By now I'm very confident with my navigation skills and understanding of the public transport system. Kent, as this was his first time in Germany, definitely looked a little lost. Once we sat down at a brewery, however, he was in his element. Most of what he said right over my head, but it was a good learning experience listening to someone who could pick up the nuances when comparing the different "altbier" brews. (Altbier is the style specific to Dusseldorf, and the city has four authentic breweries still in operation).

Since I had training back in Bad Homburg that evening, I didn't stay with Kent as long as I would've liked. Still, it was the type of random encounter that I've come to love about traveling in Europe. Meeting Kent made my brief Dusseldorf experience memorable, and that's all I can ask.

Click here to see all of my photos from Dusseldorf.

Back to Bad Homburg, Getting Ready

I passed through Cologne again on my way home. The expectations are certainly high for when I visit the city with my parents. I have high expectations for their entire visit, for that matter. And why wouldn't I? It'll be the first time I've seen them in over three months. By now I'm confident that I can be a decent tour guide as I show them my town, my soccer, my school, and our planned destinations. But no matter what we see and no matter how bad the November weather is, it will be an extraordinary week. We'll be together, in Germany, and we'll all love every minute of it. I'm so thankful that I get to share my life in Germany with them. And I'm not the only one who's excited. Not a day goes by when the Judson kids don't mention my "mommy and daddy" coming. Izzy is convinced that "Miwanda" is coming too--I guess we just have to wait until the Judsons visit Williamstown again. 

Bamberg: A True Bavarian City

I've finished most of my big travels, but with plenty of time left in Germany and some days still available on my Eurail train pass, it's time for a series of day trips. This past Friday, with the best weather November has offered so far, I rose early to make the trip to Bamberg. Located in Bavaria's northwest region called Franconia, Bamberg is a beautifully preserved city that exemplifies the German and more specifically Bavarian way of life.

Would you rather visit a city with enough Medieval buildings to merit a UNSECO World Heritage Site distinction, or a city featuring the most breweries per capita in the world? Fortunately for me, there was no decision necessary.

Starting With the Architecture... 

Even though Bamberg is only slightly bigger than Bad Homburg, it feels like a real city. Perhaps it's because the Altstadt is really an island in the Regnitz River. Everything is compact; the jumbled streets and riverfront houses squeeze into the river valley below the seven hills of Bamberg. I managed to capture two of my favorite photos of my entire time in Germany as I wandered through the Altstadt.

The first photo is of the Old Town Hall (Alt Rathaus). It's incredible how the half-timbered section of the building hangs over the river, and equally as impressive are the colorful murals and baroque sculpture on the sides. Walking down the river only a hundred meters or so, I found myself staring across at the most picturesque riverfront scene I've ever seen. It's no surprise that this stretch of town is called "Little Venice." The panorama I shot here is one of my favorite photos I've ever taken. (Click the photo for a bigger version). 

Though it was a quick-stop-here, quick-stop-there type of day, I was wowed by the city. The sights and atmosphere alone make me want to return. Some places have a certain timeless feel to them. Though I love United States history, we're lacking a bit on the age front. Everything in America tends to grow and expand, while a place like Bamberg feels like it has and never will change. I know I'm exaggerating, but it's the only way to describe the city.

The baroque-style New Palace; it's only been around for four hundred years. 

Bamberg's Brewing Tradition

I promised to get to the part about Bamberg's brewing tradition. First a few thoughts: almost all German beer fits into either the pilsner or weissbier categories. While I've found some great versions of those styles, the average German beer can be pretty underwhelming. Though Germans brew dozens of kinds of beer, it's often difficult to find variety.

Schlenkerla: Rauchbier has been brewed here for centuries

Getting to sample a city or region's beer is an awesome perk to traveling within the country. And what better place to stop than Bamberg. I've enjoyed learning about brewing history as much and if not more  than sampling drinks, so preparing for my Bamberg trip was a lot of fun. The city houses nine breweries, many of which sit in the long established quarters of the Old Town. In alphabetical order: Ambrausianum, Fassla, Greifenklau, Kaiserdom, Keesmann, Klosterbrau, Mahr's Brau, Spezial, and Schlenkerla. With so many options, the styles available cover the entire scope of German beers.

Brauerei zum Spezial: Bamberg's other Rauchbier brewer

I loved the unobtrusive building fronts and classic interiors. Small rooms, low ceilings, views of the tap from everywhere, stained glass windows--the restaurants fit their purpose beautifully. They connect to the main brewery operation, making supporting the local industry irresistible. And the breweries only sell their product within the confines of the city.

The city is any beer lover's paradise, and whats more, it's the home of an obscure and perhaps polarizing type of brew: Rauchbier. Literally, "smoke beer," it's deliciously unlike any other beer. Only Schlenkerla and Spezial produce the style. Some may be disgusted by the smoky aroma and slight bacon flavor, but I was not one of them.

A Few Thoughts About Bavaria

Bavaria is just a little different from the rest of the country. I would be lying if I said that the culture and lifestyle of, say, Frankfurt, does not differ from that of Hamburg or Berlin, but Bavaria and it's capitol of Munich stand out. It's kind of like the Texas of Germany, except with incredible scenery, picturesque old cities, and a strong beer culture. I can't really comment on Texas, though. 

I've been told that the people in Germany's largest state consider themselves to be Bavarians, not Germans. There's a certain laid back feeling that I get in Bavaria. The people seem to be casual, friendly, and liberal in their politics and the amount of beer they consume. 

The beer culture is apparent, even in a country where beer is the national drink. It's possible to get Bavarian beers all over Germany, but the true gems have to be sought out. That's why I will never see a Mahr's Brau beer being sold in Frankfurt. It's also why travel and beer in Germany go hand in hand. 

We'll see if I make it back to Bavaria during this trip. I'd never pass up the chance to go back, and I know I will return eventually. I've been to the most popular destinations and seen some of the best sights. Munich, Nuremberg, and Bamberg are all places where I would be happy to spend a week exploring the little details that are impossible to catch in a day or weekend trip. But for now, I've enjoyed every hour I've spent in Germany's biggest and possibly my favorite state. 

Soccer Manifesto: Part 4

After a stretch of weekends without games in October, I am back to my normal soccer schedule of daily training sessions and matches on Saturdays. And I am not complaining one bit; in fact, the past two weeks have been some of the most fun I've had on the soccer field during my time here. 

I realize I haven't given too many details about my games. For the longest time I still had no idea what to expect from game to game, but after two solid performances in early November, I feel our team is finally meshing. 

I've been anchoring the back line along with my co-centerback Christian, whose natural instinct on defense is second to none. It's been fun sharing the defensive responsibilities with him, although our goals against tally isn't all that great. The different style of play allows for more goals in general. It's less scrappy, more possession oriented, and in general a more attacking style of play. My team doesn't excel in the center of the park, so many goals get scored on us when our midfielders get beat, leaving an outnumbered defense. One other observation: the goals tend to be more beautiful and skillful here. I've seen long range blasts and vollies off of crosses scored more often than in your typical Berkshire County soccer game.

Though I have been held back on defense, I managed to bag a header goal on a corner kick in my most recent game. After falling down 2-0, we fought back to tie the game at half. They scored shortly into the second half, but I netted our third goal to tie the score again. Once more our opponents scored, but with five minutes left we got a lucky bounce and the ball trickled into the net. It ended a 4-4 draw--probably the best played match I've been a part of in Germany. 

I'm certainly improving. Even though I've always considered myself a smart player, I've learned so much as I've tried to fit my game to the German system. It's crazy to think I only have four matches left, and hopefully we continue to score goals and move up the table.

I'll post if we have any more exciting or fantastic results, and I'll definitely write a big summary  about my German soccer experience once I play my final match.

Future Teammates in Nuremberg

I'm catching up on posting about my October travels; here's the story of my trip to Nuremberg on the last weekend of the month. 

I haven't spent much time with my future Middlebury teammate Kirk Horton, but it feels like we've been friends for a long time. By coincidence we both ended up in Germany when we decided to take gap years, and both of us are playing soccer here. Next September we'll join the freshmen ranks at Middlebury and fight for roles on the soccer team. I was so excited to make the connection with Kirk, and our back and forth discussions throughout our time in Germany have been fun. More fun, however, was the chance to meet up at Oktoberfest. And best yet, I was able to travel my last free weekend in October to meet him in Nuremberg.

Half-timbered houses in Nuremberg's Altstadt

Kirk met me at the Nuremberg Hauptbahnhof late on Friday afternoon, and we made our way back to Furth where he lived. Furth is about double the size of Bad Homburg, and although there are plenty of things to do in the small city, Kirk said he makes the short trip to Nuremberg very often. He lives in an apartment on the sixth floor of a building--not an ideal location, but at least a huge grocery store sits across the street. While waiting for his roommate Wagner to return, we set out for a walk along the trails of a nearby park. It was the perfect chance to catch up, as the craziness of our Oktoberfest meeting wasn't ideal for conversation. I finally got the full explanation of Kirk's situation in Germany. He lives with Wagner, who is Brazilian but resides in Connecticut. They have connected with other Americans through Kirk's program, but they all play for different clubs. Kirk used this program to get situated in an apartment and with a soccer team, whereas I used my host family to communicate with my club.

By the time we got back it was dark, and we realized that with daylight savings coming soon, we would both have to get used the early nightfall. I soon met Wagner, and the three of us had an excellent evening in Nuremberg which included high quality burgers at Chong's restaurant. Despite the name, the place was as American as it gets. Later we met two Adidas employees--one who lives in Germany and the other who traveled from the States. Nuremberg is home to both Adidas and Puma--as the story goes, two brothers got in a fight and started rival companies in the city. Both of the guys we met have had the opportunity to travel the world recruiting players to wear Adidas gear, searching for the next Messi. It seemed like an awesome job.

First snow flurries of the year, though many trees still have their golden leaves

Nuremberg has an extensive Old Town. As we walked through the cobblestone streets the next day amid snow flurries, I felt the slight whispering of Christmas. The markets in Nuremberg were a highlight, and I can only imagine what it's like when the Christmas Market time arrives. We all ate the traditional "three bratwursts on a roll" and some Bavarian style cookies. Bavaria truly feels different than the rest of Germany, and I'll explain more when I write about my recent trip to Bamberg.

A large market square in the center of Nuremberg

We spent a good chunk of time up at the Nuremberg Castle, which looks out over the city. It wasn't as spectacular as the views from the Heidelberg or Edinburgh castles, but it was beautiful on the snowy afternoon.

There was one part of the day, though, that I will remember for a long time. We tuned into the Middlebury versus Amherst NESCAC quarterfinal soccer game, and together watched our future team get crushed. As Midd's chances to mount a comeback dwindled, we started talking about the future--our future. Next year, we'll be out there; the next game that Middlebury soccer plays, our names will be on the roster. And we will be able to say to each other, "We were together in Germany when Middlebury last played--now it's our turn." 

It's the greatest of coincidences that we both get to experience Germany and European soccer. Not many teammates can say that they hung out in Europe before they ever played on the same field or attended the same school. Writing this makes me excited about my time at Middlebury. If my other teammates on the soccer team are as nice as Kirk, it will be an unbelievable career.

Click here to see all of my photos from Nuremberg. I apologize for not getting any pictures with Kirk. I guess those will have to wait until we see each other next--at Middlebury, most likely!

A Few Shout-outs

First off, on this Tuesday the sixth of November, I'd like to give a shout-out and wish the best of luck to my President, Barack Obama. Only one day away from four more years.

Next, a shout-out to Tampa Bay Buccaneers' rooking running back Doug Martin. Even though I still would've won my fantasy football matchup this past weekend without his incredible performance, it's pretty nice to have a guy drop 55.3 points. Four touchdowns and 251 yards--not a bad day on the job. 

My running back.

Lastly, a shout-out to the Mount Greylock boys soccer team, who have played with dominance in their first two playoff games. The Mounties topped Athol 3-0 and followed it up with a 4-1 win over Monson two nights later. Congrats to the seniors on finishing out their last two home games with victories. A special nod goes to Nathan Majumder, who added to his record-breaking regular season totals of 25 goals and 10 assists by scoring twice versus Athol and three times against Monson. And he did it with style--click here to watch Nathan's bicycle kick goal. 30 goals and 11 assists, and not done yet! To all the Mounties, best of luck going forward. I'll certainly be paying close attention.  

My boys.

A Change in Seasons

It's been an exhilarating and exhausting past six weeks. I'm still not quite caught up with the blog. Scotland was so amazing that I felt each day deserved a lengthy post. I traveled to Nuremberg the week following my trip to the UK, and though I'm jumping ahead a bit with this post, expect something about that weekend soon. 

For now, I want to ramble about my time in Germany and the transformations that I see and feel every day. I've had the grandest of adventures in the past six weeks, and I hope I've documented them to the fullest in the blog. With that, though, comes less time to write about the experience of simply being in a foreign country. To me, that is the most important. 

Germany, Finally a Home

My mindset has changed so much since I first arrived. Everything was new, and I had only the vaguest idea about what was in store for me. I remember walking around Bad Homburg and Frankfurt for the first time. It was the only way to get started on my travel, but I had no idea what I was doing. Then I jumped into longer trips, feeling slightly more comfortable with travel in Germany. Yet I look back now and I laugh at myself, and I realize that I've changed so much. It's all a learning process, and the best way to learn is to throw yourself into something and hope for the best. 

I've watched the summer slide into fall, formed bonds with my family, found friends on my soccer teams, learned the ways of German society, and saw the first glimpses of snow--and only now it feels like Bad Homburg is my home. It's taken me two-and-a-half months and trips all over Germany and to Scotland to truly feel this way about my town. 

As I've transitioned back into by normal soccer and teaching schedule, I'm beginning to see the town differently. I've reached my final phase, my final season, in Bad Homburg. Now when I walk up and down the streets, nothing sets my heart racing. I feel none of the juvenile excitement that often occurred when I first arrived, but despite it all, I love the town more and more every day. Now, instead of trying to see everything, I try to find something new. It's a completely different way of living. When you try to see everything, you miss so much. As I dig deeper, I find the most incredible details. It's taken me a long time to realize that finding is so much more rewarding than seeing. When I return home and think back to my time in Bad Homburg, those moments will stand out the most. 

In these last six weeks, I want to make every day count. I think differently now, and I feel differently. Every day I want to go out of my way to find something new or strengthen a friendship with someone. It's because of this that I know my last stretch in Germany will be spectacular. Though I won't be traveling to Oktoberfest or golfing in Scotland, I have so much still to do. It doesn't have to be big or noteworthy, but if I keep that sense of discovery with me, it will be special. 

And I have plenty to look forward to. My parents arrive two weeks from today, and I'll get to play the role of tour guide during their stay. I'm so glad they're coming at the end of my trip instead of the beginning, because only now do I feel ready to show them everything Bad Homburg and Frankfurt have to offer. We'll take our day trips, too. I'm excited to get back to Heidelberg during the Christmas Market season, and we'll also head up to Cologne, which has been on my bucket list since day one. 

Speaking of Christmas...

Here's a bit of fun to close out the post. This past week was Halloween as everyone knows. Here in Germany it's not quite as big of a deal, but at Accadis all of the kids showed up in costume. Here are a few photos. 

I went into a department store the following day, November 1st, and was surprised by the scenery. I guess since the Germans don't have a Thanksgiving holiday to look forward to, all efforts from the beginning of November onwards are directed towards Christmas. And as I walked around Nuremberg in the snow a week ago, I could feel the faintest Christmas spirit in the air. It is a BIG deal in Germany, and I'm looking forward to the festivities. And who ever complained about an extra month of Christmas Season?

So, check back soon for my post about Nuremberg (an awesome city, I should add). I'm also going to try to write about soccer, teaching, and perhaps add to my LOVE/Hate list. All in good time. 

Scotland Trip, Part Four: Day in St. Andrews

Introduction

Weeks before my trip, I mentioned my golfing fascination to my hosts. I told them I was looking to play two courses and then spend the rest of time exploring Edinburgh. They told me it sounded like a great plan, but if I was really keen on golf, I had to get up to St. Andrews. I already knew plenty about St. Andrews and the Old Course--the birthplace of golf--but I had failed to realize it was such an easy trip from Edinburgh.

Looking upon the 18th green and the 1st hole running parellel to the right.
The Old Course Hotel sits just off the 17th hole in the background.

Fast-forward to the Saturday of my trip. I sat on a train heading around the Firth of Forth taking me to St. Andrews. Wishing I had clubs with me, I watched the morning brighten and the fog begin to lift. I had accomplished my goal of playing two rounds in Scotland, but I wanted more. And though getting a tee time at the Old Course is very difficult, there are six other courses in St. Andrews that are far less visited. Still, I had no clubs. Then I snapped out of my minor depression--I was going to the home of golf, and I had the chance to walk the Old Course. I started to get that warm feeling inside, growing every minute I drew closer to my destination.

The fescued landscape makes for true links golf and beautiful vistas

I played the Old Course on EA Sports' Tiger Woods golf video game dozens of times growing up. There are many parts of the St. Andrews experience that are impossible to get from a video game, and the first and most apparent is the location of the course. After passing by a handful of elegant golf shops and restaurants with golf words worked into their names, I approached the famous Royal & Ancient Clubhouse. It still felt like I was in the middle of the town, but in front of me I could see the first and eighteenth holes expanding outwards in front of me. It's fitting in a town where golf is so important that the Old Course starts and ends in the town. Cars line the narrow street to the left, and just behind the seventeenth--the famous "Road Hole"--looms the St. Andrews Hotel.

Walking Around the Old Course

There was nothing else to do but to start walking. I carried a brisk pace, heading right in front of the R&A Clubhouse, past the starter's and caddies' huts, and off on an eighteen hole sightseeing adventure. The sandy path runs along the entire outside of the course, but because the holes run mostly parellel in an out and back fashion, I could see nearly every tee box and green. I passed the famous Himalayas practice putting green, the Old Course's first green on my left, and then the New Course clubhouse on my right. Something else the video games don't show: the Old Course is smack in the middle of the peninsula, with the other St. Andrews courses running right next to it. A casual onlooker would be surprised that the Old Course doesn't take up the oceanfront space, but I guess when they began golfing centuries ago they weren't trying to attract visitors with ocean vistas.

The eighteenth green with its "Valley of Sin" and the R&A Clubhouse

The third thing video games don't show you: the ground is as wrinkled and wavy as I have ever seen on a golf course. Perhaps the land near the beach is a bit more scenic, but the ground the Old Course covers certainly has the most character. As I passed by groups and snapped photos of the fairways and greens, I was mesmerized time and time again by the undulations of the land. Blind shots, hidden bunkers, and unpredictable bounces characterize the course, but nothing was more fascinating by the greens. The reason why the British Open continues to return to St. Andrews has a lot to do with the greens. Running fast, they could be deadly. Swales, slopes and bowls cover the large putting surfaces, many of which are double greens shared by two holes.

A view of some of the incredible undulating ground that houses the Old Course.
It's difficult to capture the subtlety of the fairways and greens with a camera.
The holes really do have to been seen to be believed.  

A Few Holes in Detail

It's impossible to get a full understanding of a course without playing it. You remember shots and associate them with the holes. Walking along the side of holes and only stopping to take photos isn't the best way to memorize a golf course. Even as I flip through my photos now, it's difficult to tell some of the holes apart. Many golfers say it takes more than a couple rounds at the Old Course to truly understand it's greatness. Hopefully I'll be one of the lucky ones who does get to walk the links many, many times.

Fairway bunkers on the par five 14th are hidden from view behind a dune.

Still, the Old Course is one of the most famous in the world. Without absolutely fantastic holes, it wouldn't be so highly esteemed. I was excited to see the famous holes, and a few others stood out such as the phenomenal par five fourteenth--"Long." Even without playing it, the long three-shotter is the finest par five I've ever seen. The strategy is endless.

The heavily sloped Eden green. This is the closest the Old Course plays to the water.

"Eden," the most famous par three, features an extreme green even for the Old Course standards, and plays with the Eden Estuary as the backdrop. The small Strath Bunker guards the front of the green, second only to the Road Hole bunker on seventeen as the most notorious on the course.

16-18 are three world class par fours. Though sixteen, "Corner of the Dyke," and eighteen, "Tom Morris," don't get enough credit because of the famous seventeenth, they would be signature holes anywhere else. Sixteen features the "Principal's Nose" fairway bunker complex, copied all over the world. Eighteen--with Swilcan Bridge, the "Valley of Sin" just before the green, and the backdrop of the R&A Clubhouse--is the perfect closing hole. I do want to note that North Berwick features a very similar closing hole--short, undulating fairway, deep swale in front of the green, and a finish right back in the middle of the town.

The Road Hole green and notorious green-side bunker

The best hole, however, has to be the "Road Hole." There simply is not a more unique, more testing hole in golf. The drive over the edge of the Old Course Hotel and the approach to a smallish, unreceptive green with the pot bunker and the road creating danger on all sides are two of the most thrilling shots in golf. When I play the Old Course some day, I would like nothing more than to make a par at seventeen.

Final Thoughts

I stood on Swilcan Bridge to get a photo. I don't know if I would've like to be photographed anywhere else, with the eighteenth hole and clubhouse in the background at the home of golf. I made sure, though, not to cross the bridge. That is for another day, when I return to St. Andrews with my clubs to savor a round on the Old Course. When that day comes, I will cross the bridge to play my final shots, with memories to last a lifetime already stored away. I'll finish my round and enjoy the rest of the day in the town, which certainly highlights the best that Scotland has to offer. And I know on that day, I will think back countless times to my first trip to Scotland and the town of St. Andrews. I've given myself a pretty amazing start, and I know that when the opportunity arises, I won't hesitate to return.

Standing on Swilcan Bridge at the home of golf. Can't beat it!

Click here to see all of my photos from St. Andrews. Be sure to read Part One, Part Two, and Part Three of my Scotland Trip series if you missed them.