The Quintessential German Christmas Town

A Few Notes on Rothenburg ob der Tauber

It's Christmas Season here in Germany, and with my limited travel days remaining, I've planned my trips for the Christmas Markets and December scenery. While there are hundreds of Christmas Markets in Germany, all steeped in tradition, there may be no town more fitting for a winter carnival than Rothenburg ob der Tauber. 

I'm going to let the pictures do a lot of talking, but first, a bit about what I've discovered about the town.  Rothenburg hasn't changed much in half a millenium. The walled town kept its fortifications up and never really bothered to change the interior. Though the town has expanded outside the walls, stepping inside is as close as I've come to time travel. The buildings are uniformly unique--all constructed with half-timbered framework and pasteled siding. Cobblestones make the going interesting, though when the December snow fills in the cracks, walking the streets is even more fun. 

As I left home in the early hours of the morning a week ago, I was greeted by the first real snow of the year. Two inches covered the roads and coated the trees. The ride down was like racing through a black and white scrapbook--one of my favorite train journeys to date. 

I spent the day exploring the streets and snapping photos from covered walkways on top of the town walls. Each shop offered a new souvenir or local delicacy, and though the stores looked ancient from the outside, the insides offered all of the modern facets of the vibrant German lifestyle. The town's Christmas Market occupied the main square near the Town Hall and biggest church, and though not as massive as Frankfurt's or as lively as Heidelberg's, I found nearly every stall to be special. The style of the market certainly matched the atmosphere of the snowy town. From the top of the Rathaus Tower I could see the entire town, its roofs covered in snow. The perfect place to be during December.

With that, here are some photos. These should summarize Rothenburg ob der Tauber and my snowy experience there.

Rathaus Platz with the Christmas Market stalls surrounding the tree.

A decorative display in the market.

The picturesque from the Rathaus Tower, looking down on the centuries-old
houses of the walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

The year-round Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village--but only at it's best in December.

One of many idyllic Christmas sights inside Kathe Wohlfahrt.

The town wall, covered and walkable. To give a sense of size, I walked
ninety percent of it in just over half-an-hour, stopping for photos, of course! 

A perfect view from the wall. It always seems a church dominates the view,
and here the half-timbered houses make the sight even more impressive.

Looking down on the forested valley on the west side of town, which
marks the border between Bavaria and Baden-Wurttemberg. 

Some incredible buildings, the highest being the Rathaus Tower. 

Traditional German nutcracker dolls, found here in every color, shape, and size.

Click here to see all of my photos from Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

Bamberg: A True Bavarian City

I've finished most of my big travels, but with plenty of time left in Germany and some days still available on my Eurail train pass, it's time for a series of day trips. This past Friday, with the best weather November has offered so far, I rose early to make the trip to Bamberg. Located in Bavaria's northwest region called Franconia, Bamberg is a beautifully preserved city that exemplifies the German and more specifically Bavarian way of life.

Would you rather visit a city with enough Medieval buildings to merit a UNSECO World Heritage Site distinction, or a city featuring the most breweries per capita in the world? Fortunately for me, there was no decision necessary.

Starting With the Architecture... 

Even though Bamberg is only slightly bigger than Bad Homburg, it feels like a real city. Perhaps it's because the Altstadt is really an island in the Regnitz River. Everything is compact; the jumbled streets and riverfront houses squeeze into the river valley below the seven hills of Bamberg. I managed to capture two of my favorite photos of my entire time in Germany as I wandered through the Altstadt.

The first photo is of the Old Town Hall (Alt Rathaus). It's incredible how the half-timbered section of the building hangs over the river, and equally as impressive are the colorful murals and baroque sculpture on the sides. Walking down the river only a hundred meters or so, I found myself staring across at the most picturesque riverfront scene I've ever seen. It's no surprise that this stretch of town is called "Little Venice." The panorama I shot here is one of my favorite photos I've ever taken. (Click the photo for a bigger version). 

Though it was a quick-stop-here, quick-stop-there type of day, I was wowed by the city. The sights and atmosphere alone make me want to return. Some places have a certain timeless feel to them. Though I love United States history, we're lacking a bit on the age front. Everything in America tends to grow and expand, while a place like Bamberg feels like it has and never will change. I know I'm exaggerating, but it's the only way to describe the city.

The baroque-style New Palace; it's only been around for four hundred years. 

Bamberg's Brewing Tradition

I promised to get to the part about Bamberg's brewing tradition. First a few thoughts: almost all German beer fits into either the pilsner or weissbier categories. While I've found some great versions of those styles, the average German beer can be pretty underwhelming. Though Germans brew dozens of kinds of beer, it's often difficult to find variety.

Schlenkerla: Rauchbier has been brewed here for centuries

Getting to sample a city or region's beer is an awesome perk to traveling within the country. And what better place to stop than Bamberg. I've enjoyed learning about brewing history as much and if not more  than sampling drinks, so preparing for my Bamberg trip was a lot of fun. The city houses nine breweries, many of which sit in the long established quarters of the Old Town. In alphabetical order: Ambrausianum, Fassla, Greifenklau, Kaiserdom, Keesmann, Klosterbrau, Mahr's Brau, Spezial, and Schlenkerla. With so many options, the styles available cover the entire scope of German beers.

Brauerei zum Spezial: Bamberg's other Rauchbier brewer

I loved the unobtrusive building fronts and classic interiors. Small rooms, low ceilings, views of the tap from everywhere, stained glass windows--the restaurants fit their purpose beautifully. They connect to the main brewery operation, making supporting the local industry irresistible. And the breweries only sell their product within the confines of the city.

The city is any beer lover's paradise, and whats more, it's the home of an obscure and perhaps polarizing type of brew: Rauchbier. Literally, "smoke beer," it's deliciously unlike any other beer. Only Schlenkerla and Spezial produce the style. Some may be disgusted by the smoky aroma and slight bacon flavor, but I was not one of them.

A Few Thoughts About Bavaria

Bavaria is just a little different from the rest of the country. I would be lying if I said that the culture and lifestyle of, say, Frankfurt, does not differ from that of Hamburg or Berlin, but Bavaria and it's capitol of Munich stand out. It's kind of like the Texas of Germany, except with incredible scenery, picturesque old cities, and a strong beer culture. I can't really comment on Texas, though. 

I've been told that the people in Germany's largest state consider themselves to be Bavarians, not Germans. There's a certain laid back feeling that I get in Bavaria. The people seem to be casual, friendly, and liberal in their politics and the amount of beer they consume. 

The beer culture is apparent, even in a country where beer is the national drink. It's possible to get Bavarian beers all over Germany, but the true gems have to be sought out. That's why I will never see a Mahr's Brau beer being sold in Frankfurt. It's also why travel and beer in Germany go hand in hand. 

We'll see if I make it back to Bavaria during this trip. I'd never pass up the chance to go back, and I know I will return eventually. I've been to the most popular destinations and seen some of the best sights. Munich, Nuremberg, and Bamberg are all places where I would be happy to spend a week exploring the little details that are impossible to catch in a day or weekend trip. But for now, I've enjoyed every hour I've spent in Germany's biggest and possibly my favorite state. 

Scotland Trip, Part Four: Day in St. Andrews

Introduction

Weeks before my trip, I mentioned my golfing fascination to my hosts. I told them I was looking to play two courses and then spend the rest of time exploring Edinburgh. They told me it sounded like a great plan, but if I was really keen on golf, I had to get up to St. Andrews. I already knew plenty about St. Andrews and the Old Course--the birthplace of golf--but I had failed to realize it was such an easy trip from Edinburgh.

Looking upon the 18th green and the 1st hole running parellel to the right.
The Old Course Hotel sits just off the 17th hole in the background.

Fast-forward to the Saturday of my trip. I sat on a train heading around the Firth of Forth taking me to St. Andrews. Wishing I had clubs with me, I watched the morning brighten and the fog begin to lift. I had accomplished my goal of playing two rounds in Scotland, but I wanted more. And though getting a tee time at the Old Course is very difficult, there are six other courses in St. Andrews that are far less visited. Still, I had no clubs. Then I snapped out of my minor depression--I was going to the home of golf, and I had the chance to walk the Old Course. I started to get that warm feeling inside, growing every minute I drew closer to my destination.

The fescued landscape makes for true links golf and beautiful vistas

I played the Old Course on EA Sports' Tiger Woods golf video game dozens of times growing up. There are many parts of the St. Andrews experience that are impossible to get from a video game, and the first and most apparent is the location of the course. After passing by a handful of elegant golf shops and restaurants with golf words worked into their names, I approached the famous Royal & Ancient Clubhouse. It still felt like I was in the middle of the town, but in front of me I could see the first and eighteenth holes expanding outwards in front of me. It's fitting in a town where golf is so important that the Old Course starts and ends in the town. Cars line the narrow street to the left, and just behind the seventeenth--the famous "Road Hole"--looms the St. Andrews Hotel.

Walking Around the Old Course

There was nothing else to do but to start walking. I carried a brisk pace, heading right in front of the R&A Clubhouse, past the starter's and caddies' huts, and off on an eighteen hole sightseeing adventure. The sandy path runs along the entire outside of the course, but because the holes run mostly parellel in an out and back fashion, I could see nearly every tee box and green. I passed the famous Himalayas practice putting green, the Old Course's first green on my left, and then the New Course clubhouse on my right. Something else the video games don't show: the Old Course is smack in the middle of the peninsula, with the other St. Andrews courses running right next to it. A casual onlooker would be surprised that the Old Course doesn't take up the oceanfront space, but I guess when they began golfing centuries ago they weren't trying to attract visitors with ocean vistas.

The eighteenth green with its "Valley of Sin" and the R&A Clubhouse

The third thing video games don't show you: the ground is as wrinkled and wavy as I have ever seen on a golf course. Perhaps the land near the beach is a bit more scenic, but the ground the Old Course covers certainly has the most character. As I passed by groups and snapped photos of the fairways and greens, I was mesmerized time and time again by the undulations of the land. Blind shots, hidden bunkers, and unpredictable bounces characterize the course, but nothing was more fascinating by the greens. The reason why the British Open continues to return to St. Andrews has a lot to do with the greens. Running fast, they could be deadly. Swales, slopes and bowls cover the large putting surfaces, many of which are double greens shared by two holes.

A view of some of the incredible undulating ground that houses the Old Course.
It's difficult to capture the subtlety of the fairways and greens with a camera.
The holes really do have to been seen to be believed.  

A Few Holes in Detail

It's impossible to get a full understanding of a course without playing it. You remember shots and associate them with the holes. Walking along the side of holes and only stopping to take photos isn't the best way to memorize a golf course. Even as I flip through my photos now, it's difficult to tell some of the holes apart. Many golfers say it takes more than a couple rounds at the Old Course to truly understand it's greatness. Hopefully I'll be one of the lucky ones who does get to walk the links many, many times.

Fairway bunkers on the par five 14th are hidden from view behind a dune.

Still, the Old Course is one of the most famous in the world. Without absolutely fantastic holes, it wouldn't be so highly esteemed. I was excited to see the famous holes, and a few others stood out such as the phenomenal par five fourteenth--"Long." Even without playing it, the long three-shotter is the finest par five I've ever seen. The strategy is endless.

The heavily sloped Eden green. This is the closest the Old Course plays to the water.

"Eden," the most famous par three, features an extreme green even for the Old Course standards, and plays with the Eden Estuary as the backdrop. The small Strath Bunker guards the front of the green, second only to the Road Hole bunker on seventeen as the most notorious on the course.

16-18 are three world class par fours. Though sixteen, "Corner of the Dyke," and eighteen, "Tom Morris," don't get enough credit because of the famous seventeenth, they would be signature holes anywhere else. Sixteen features the "Principal's Nose" fairway bunker complex, copied all over the world. Eighteen--with Swilcan Bridge, the "Valley of Sin" just before the green, and the backdrop of the R&A Clubhouse--is the perfect closing hole. I do want to note that North Berwick features a very similar closing hole--short, undulating fairway, deep swale in front of the green, and a finish right back in the middle of the town.

The Road Hole green and notorious green-side bunker

The best hole, however, has to be the "Road Hole." There simply is not a more unique, more testing hole in golf. The drive over the edge of the Old Course Hotel and the approach to a smallish, unreceptive green with the pot bunker and the road creating danger on all sides are two of the most thrilling shots in golf. When I play the Old Course some day, I would like nothing more than to make a par at seventeen.

Final Thoughts

I stood on Swilcan Bridge to get a photo. I don't know if I would've like to be photographed anywhere else, with the eighteenth hole and clubhouse in the background at the home of golf. I made sure, though, not to cross the bridge. That is for another day, when I return to St. Andrews with my clubs to savor a round on the Old Course. When that day comes, I will cross the bridge to play my final shots, with memories to last a lifetime already stored away. I'll finish my round and enjoy the rest of the day in the town, which certainly highlights the best that Scotland has to offer. And I know on that day, I will think back countless times to my first trip to Scotland and the town of St. Andrews. I've given myself a pretty amazing start, and I know that when the opportunity arises, I won't hesitate to return.

Standing on Swilcan Bridge at the home of golf. Can't beat it!

Click here to see all of my photos from St. Andrews. Be sure to read Part One, Part Two, and Part Three of my Scotland Trip series if you missed them.

Scotland Trip, Part Three: North Berwick Golf Club

I thought, after my gloriously entertaining round at Gullane, that I knew what to expect heading to North Berwick. After finishing my round, however, I believe it is impossible for anyone to truly understand links golf without playing North Berwick. Let me explain, starting from the beginning.

North Berwick Golf Club

I found grey skies, cool air, and a stiff breeze when I arrived in the lovely town of North Berwick--a thirty-minute train ride east of Edinburgh. The town descends towards the sea from the base of North Berwick Law. This conical hill is not tall but is visible from almost anywhere in the town and on the golf course. As I made my way towards the coast, I could see Bass Rock looming far out in the cold  ocean waters. 

Looking back towards the town, the clubhouse on the right, and North Berwick Law

I was not as jittery about arriving at the course as the previous day, though I knew I was in for an even bigger treat. When I rounded the bend and finally saw the course, I was a little surprised. Was this St. Andrews? Just like the famed Old Course, the first and eighteenth holes at North Berwick share an immense fairway, and the eighteenth green sits directly in front of the clubhouse and very near the streets. It will be easy to see the comparison when I write about St. Andrews in Part Four.

I took in the views--the coastal town visible in its full splendor to my right, and the rocky islands sitting off shore in front of me. To my left, the first and eighteenth holes running parellel before the course veers left and out of town. It seemed the most innately perfect place for a golf course--I can see why the grounds have been used for this very purpose for so many years.

I received a warm introduction and shared a few words with the man stationed in the clubhouse. He was there for that very purpose: to brief the visitors on the club's rules and make them feel welcomed. I certainly did, and I'm sure he enjoyed talking to a high school graduate rather than a retiree. 

Dunes, beach, rocks, ocean--golf on Scotland's coast

In the small starter's house, I found myself standing in line next to two Americans. Not wanting to play alone, I asked the starter if there were any groups I could join. Before he could answer, one of the guys in line jumped in and invited me to pair up with his twosome. He was named Scott, and he introduced me to his long time golfing buddy Tony. They were in their mid-fifties, huge golfers back home in New Mexico, and big fans of playing in Scotland. Both had played in the British Isles before, but on their current trip they were hitting many of the big name courses.

After a few putts and a gear check to make sure all of my extremities were covered, I joined Tony and Scott on the first tee. A tame first shot--"Hit it 175 yards and no farther," the starter told us--and we were off.

North Berwick West Links

It's not every day that one plays the third oldest course in the world. The West Links at North Berwick has housed the game of golf since 1832. The course, carved out of the dunes by Mother Nature and decades of foot traffic well over a century ago, plays parellel to the ocean on nearly every hole. Because the course was discovered rather than built, many of the holes possess a certain quirkiness that cannot be constructed on modern courses. It's impossible to find a bad course with strong par fours, and North Berwick's par fours were the best collection I've ever played. Each hole was unique, making the journey along the ocean and between the dunes a true golfing adventure.

Holes to Note

2nd Hole - "Sea" - Par 4 - 429 Yards

The ocean views hit you from the first tee and continue throughout the round, but no hole plays closer to the beach than the second. A "cape" style hole, the dogleg challenges the golfer to bit off as much of the beach as possible. It shows that risk-reward golf has been at the heart of course design since the game began. 

Cut off as much as you like on the drive over the beach on Hole #2

The fairway undulates and plays through waves of dunes. Unlike most of the fairways at Gullane, at North Berwick and especially the second hole, a flat lie is hard to find. 

Incredible fairway undulations; typical at links courses but very prevalent at North Berwick

11th Hole - "Bos'ns Locker" - Par 5 - 546 Yards

One of only three par fives (which coincidentally are holes 8, 9, and 11), this slight dogleg left plays close to the ocean. The views from the elevated tee box are incredible, as the golfer has just made the turn back towards the town. The fairway hides below the large dunes on the left, eliminating some of the wind and offering the option of going for the green in two. Like many of the holes, the severe sloping of the green makes an accurate approach even more necessary.

Avoid getting caught by the views as you drive right of the dunes on the par five 11th

13th Hole - "Pit" - Par 4 - 387 Yards

One of the most famous and quirkiest holes on the course,  the "Pit" is a medium-length par four playing down a narrow fairway chute, though it's the second shot that grabs all of the attention. An old stone wall runs parellel to the hole on the left side. On the opposite side, squeezed between the wall and the dunes, sits the sunken green. A drive down the left challenging the wall offers a better angle into the green, though hitting it is no easy task. I've never played an approach shot like the one over the wall on thirteen.

Looking back on the sunken green and the fairway separated to the left by the wall 

15th Hole - "Redan" - Par 3 - 190 Yards

Is is the best par three I've ever played? The uneducated golfer might not think much of the hole at first, because of the initially unimpressive view. The green hides behind a large dune and two cop bunkers, but fortunately, I knew what sat just out of view. "Redan" comes from a military formation, and this hole--the most copied in the world--has a formidable structure in its green site. The typical Redan design has a deep angled bunker flanking the left of a green that slopes from fron to back and right to left. One can attack the pin directly or play to the safer right side and let the slope take the ball towards the pin. Though I missed my par putt by an inch, I left the hole asking myself, "Does this hole deserved to be copied all over the world? The more I think about it, the more I believe that the fifteenth lives up to the hype. And though I've yet to decide whether it's my favorite short hole or not, it is without a doubt the best designed par three I've played. 

The famous Redan bunker and green configuration; though it's the most
copied par three in the world, only one has Bass Rock in the background. 

16th Hole - "Gate" - Par 4 - 378 Yards

The spectacular (and one-of-a-kind) green sites just keep on coming. Sixteen is the most diabolical hole on the course, and might just have been my favorite. The drive plays over a deceiving burn, but the water is the least of the worries. The green sits at a forty-five degree angle to the fairway, with a four foot swale running through the middle. The swale cuts the green on a diagonal, making the back section even smaller and harder to reach. All three of us failed to find the correct section and had fun putts up the slope. With the condition that the pin is in the back, this may be my favorite hole of the whole trip. 

The deep swale separating the sixteenth green into two sections;
it's nearly impossible to attack the back pin position.

Final Observations

Is there a more fun golf course out there? Though I hope to play golf for my whole life and take my clubs wherever I travel, I doubt few courses I find will best North Berwick in the fun category. The collection of drastically varied holes coupled with incredible views on nearly every hole makes the West Links a special place to play golf. Add in perhaps the most interesting set of eighteen greens I have ever seen, and the result is a day of pure golf, as fun as it comes. 

This sign has seen plenty of action, and the wall has
blocked many approach shots on the par four third.

I loved the out-and-back routing. On most courses having hole after hole play in the same direction is boring, but at North Berwick it felt only fitting. A round of golf should be a journey, and I can say that no journey has been more exhilarating for me than this one along the East Lothian coast. After turning back towards the town, hole after hole on the back nine wowed me. Standing on the tenth tee box, I felt so far away from the clubhouse and town. It's a purposeful challenge, daring the golfer to attack each of the incredibly unique back nine holes one shot at a time in order to get home. I started the homeward journey by chipping in (for bogey) on the tenth, and though no easy pars were out there, each swing was thrilling. I could have reviewed every hole on the back nine alone--they were that different and that much fun. 

I didn't even have room to mention some excellent holes. The third, playing over a stone wall; the fourth, a beautiful double-plateau green set among the dunes; the twelfth, my favorite of the non-famous holes, the fourteenth, dubbed "perfection" due to the blind second shot; and eighteen, finishing right in front of the clubhouse, remarkably similar to the final hole at St. Andrews. The variety in the holes gave the West Links an immeasurable amount of character. 

Tony and Scott and I settled ourselves in the upstairs dining room of the clubhouse, and we had a lot to talk about. In that moment, looking down upon the eighteenth green and out over the dunes to the Firth of Forth, the pure golf scenery was impossible to match. They were wrapping up a two week Scotland trip, which included rounds at the Old Course, Muirfield, Cruden Bay, the new Trump course, and many other links gems. I asked about each course, seeking their recommendations and experiences. I loved hearing the first hand account of Scotland's best courses, but though they played over a dozen and I only two, we all agreed that North Berwick was one of the most fun places to play. 

Happy as can be among the fairway dunes of North Berwick

I fulfilled my dream of golfing in Scotland, and immediately I began wishing for more. If I have any say in it, I'll be back to the British Isles soon, clubs in tow, excited for all of the courses slated for play. I know one thing, however: I must make it back to North Berwick some day.

Click here to see all of my photos from North Berwick.

Scotland Trip, Part Two: Gullane Golf Club

With my rented TaylorMade clubs in tow, I boarded the X24 bus heading east from Edinburgh. It was my first morning in Scotland--a glorious one at that--and I was just hours away from my first round of golf on the historic links of the British Isles. I always anticipate a round of golf with excitement; for one in Scotland, my heart was racing well before we reached Gullane.

This post may be a bit heavy on golf course details and could fringe on golf nerdiness. Though my individual experience will always remain in the forefront, I want to write about the course as if I was reviewing it for a golfing audience that cares about the details at least half as much as I do. 

Gullane Golf Club

Gullane Golf Club, with the first and second holes in the background

Located in the heart of the East Lothian "golf coast," Gullane Golf Club features three eighteen hole courses. The clubhouse sits on south side of the town of Gullane, and Gullane Hill separates it from the ocean. 

It felt only right that this spectacular location was home to so many golf courses. I passed several on the way in, and I knew that just beyond Gullane lies Muirfield--top ten in the world--and North Berwick, where I would be headed the next day. 

My excitement grew as Gullane Hill drew closer, and as I would discover, it's the true centerpiece of No. 1. Gullane No. 1 is named because it's the oldest, dating back to 1884. As with some of the oldest courses in Scotland, the design is attributed to Mother Nature, though Willie Park Jr. had his hand in the evolution of the course when he designed the No. 2 in 1898. Willie Park was one of the most influential of the original golf course architects, and he happened to also build one of my favorite courses, New Haven Country Club. 

The red holes make up No. 1, beginning and ending in the town
and following a routing all the way out to the ocean.

I checked in at the Visitors' Clubhouse, changed in the locker room, and made my way to the practice grounds for a much needed warm up. It had been over two months since I'd last touched a club, but after hitting a few dozen balls I felt great. I picked up some souvenirs at the Pro Shop near the first tee, and then introduced myself to the starter. I was slated to play alone, but I asked to be paired up with a group if possible. Soon, I met Gary and Arti on the first tee--a father and son visiting from Finland for a week of golf. Like me, they had a strong appreciation for the game, and as we teed off and worked our way up Gullane Hill and then back down towards the ocean, I began to enjoy their company more and more. 

Gullane No. 1 - Holes to Note

2nd Hole - "Windygate" - Par 4 - 379 Yards

My first experience with real dunes. The second hole is a straight shot up Gullane Hill, flanked on both sides by massive, fescued dunes. The flanking hills were imposing, demanding only straight shots up to the subtly bunkered green. 

Approach shot uphill on Hole #2

3rd Hole - "Racecourse" - Par 5 - 496 Yards

Chosen by one golf publication as one of the best 500 holes in the world, the third owes as much to its views as it does to its design. The tee shot downhill towards the ocean is spectacular, and though bunkers discourage an agressive second shot, reaching the green in two is possible. I would agree it is a top level par five, but the fifteenth hole can certainly challenge for the best on the course as well. 

Approach towards the ocean on Hole #3

7th Hole - "Queen's Head" - Par 4 - 398 Yards

One of the few spectacular par fours on the course. To be considered elite, in my opinion a course needs its strongest holes to be par fours. Whereas this is true with North Berwick and my favorite course, Taconic, Gullane has many good but few great par fours. Seven was one of the great ones. Playing down from the highest point on the course, the views may distract from the quality of the hole. Bunkers are strategically placed so that they can stop misplayed shots, but they also create channels that feed the ball towards the green.

Looking down Hole #7. Parts of course No. 1 and No. 2 in the background,
followed by the beach at low tide, the Firth of Forth, and Edinburgh in the distance

9th Hole - "Corbie" - Par 3 - 151 Yards

A gorgeous short par three playing towards the ocean. Much of the green slopes inward in a punchbowl fashion to collect shots, though anything left, right, or long is bound to find a bunker or kick off a slope into the fescue. From the green you can look down the beach and shoreline to the right and see Muirfield. 

Arti on the green, with the best tee shot of the group.

13th Hole - "Hole Across" - Par 3 - 170 Yards

Another stellar par three, the thirteenth featured the most prolific bunkering of any hole at Gullane. Playing across the valley made the hole seem long, and because the green is built into the upslope of a hill, many come up short. The best shot clears the high lip of the bunkers on the left and feeds towards the hole. The green collects shots towards the middle, but it is a hard one to hit. 

This picturesque par three has everything to do with the bunkers.
See the bottom for another picture of the thirteenth.

15th Hole - "Pumphouse" - Par 5 - 537 Yards

Though not as stunning as the par five third hole, the design of the fifteenth--especially its green--makes it a top level golf hole. Playing uphill past a white she--the "pumphouse"--the drive needs to favor the left side of the fairway, while the second shot needs to end up on the right. When the pin is in the back of what was the craziest green on the course, it's impossible not to come up short with the third shot. My putt from the front of the green rolled past the hole, stopped, and trickled back down the slope two within two feet. 

The first set of bunkers are a factor on the drive, the second set influence the approach.

Gary standing at the top of the steep and undulating fifteenth green.

Final Notes

The round closed out heading down Gullane Hill and back towards the town. After a series of emotional high points throughout the round, the eighteenth offered a calming, picturesque end. I wished Gary and Arti good luck, and walked back to the Visitors' Clubhouse for a drink and a bite to eat. The restaurant overlooked the eighteenth green of Course No. 2, and though the afternoon had turned cloudy, it was still a treat to watch groups finish. 

My first round in Scotland was nothing short of amazing, and more importantly, I had fun from the moment I woke up to the moment I left the town of Gullane. One round of true links golf will change the way you think about the game. I sat on the bus remembering the round, and it was the consistent stream of quality holes that impressed me the ocean. Playing on the ocean on a beautiful autumn day didn't hurt, either. It was a treat, and I couldn't have imagined my first round of Scottish golf going any better. The club was beautiful and classy, and the people I met were all kind and quick to share their golfing backgrounds. I would play No. 1 again in a heartbeat, though if (and hopefully when) I return, it would be fun to get a 36 hole day in with a round on No. 2. A great course with great people in a ideal location--it doesn't get much better.

On the thirteenth tee box. Couldn't have been happier.

Click here to see all of my photos from Gullane. Check back soon for Part Three of my Scotland adventure, where I will detail my day at North Berwick. 

Scotland Trip, Part One: An Overview

I have just completed my biggest European adventure of my four months here. Up until last week, all of my travels were limited to Germany. Limited is not the right word, for in Germany alone the possibilities for travel are endless. Still, I wanted to do something a little bolder, a little grander. It was over a month ago when I conceived the idea of connecting with Ian and Lauren Clausen in Edinburgh. When they gave me the thumbs-up for a visit, I immediately began planning and dreaming about the trip. 

Airplane view

Arthur's Seat

Scotland is a beautiful country with plenty of sights and things to do, but I bought the plane ticket for more than just sight-seeing reasons. Yes, Scotland is the home of golf, and as an golf enthusiast--more specifically a golf history and architecture enthusiast--I planned my trip around the golf. I am breaking up my adventures into what will most likely be four posts. In this first one, I will refrain from talking about my rounds at Gullane (Part Two) and North Berwick (Part Three) and my day at St. Andrews (Part Four). I could write an essay about any new course I play, so when it comes to historic Scottish links, I at least need to dedicate a blog post to each. 

In this segment, I will give an overview of the trip, write about the city of Edinburgh, talk about my wonderful hosts, and conclude with a list of highlights other than the golf. And there's plenty to write about. Even if I wasn't focusing my trip on golf, I still would have had a blast in Edinburgh. I'm thankful I had time to explore the city and also spend evenings with my hosts. So here we go.

Edinburgh

The biggest and most vibrant city in Scotland, Edinburgh and its half-a-million people certainly enjoy a special location. Steeped in history, the city unfurls in all directions from the Royal Mile--a pedestrian street where the cobblestones climb upwards towards the Edinburgh Castle. Unlike all of the German cities I've visited, Edinburgh has plenty of hills. The castle is perched high up on a rocky mound and looks all the more impressive because of it. The Royal Mile separates the Old Town to the south from the New Town to the north. The windy streets of the Old Town feature many tourist attractions, old architecture, plenty of fantastic shops and restaurants, and a bit of a labyrinth feel with all of the closes (covered alleyways) leading down from the main streets. 

Edinburgh Castle

The New Town was considered an architectural and planning masterpiece when it was constructed in the late eighteenth century (and they call it the "New" Town!). It helped rescue the Old Town from filth and overpopulation, and now offers some of the best restaurants and shopping in the city. There is also a beautiful park in the shadow of the castle, as well as the Sir Walter Scott Monument (which I'll get to later) and the famous Balmoral Hotel. 

In the east sits Holyrood Park and and old volcano dubbed Arthur's Seat (which I'll also get to later). Leith is the district of the city on the shore, and going east from Edinburgh is East Lothian--the "golf coast." 

My Hosts, Ian and Lauren Clausen

Ian and Lauren were so gracious in taking me into their home for five nights. From Indiana, they married after college and moved to Scotland where Ian is finishing up his Ph.D in theology. They both love the city, but the plan is definitely to move back to the States within a year or two. They are expecting their first child this winter, however, which may complicate things a bit! I got the contact from Erica Maker--cross country coach at Williams and wife of Mike Maker, the Ephs' basketball coach. Ian is Erica's younger brother, and while Mike and Erica were up at Dudley with their young baby Jack this summer, we got talking about the chance for me to visit Scotland. I am so glad I made the effort; Ian and Lauren were great hosts and incredibly nice people.

They made sure I ate well, and most evenings I returned from an exhausting day to find a delicious dinner nearly ready. Even though I did all of the sightseeing and travel alone, they made sure to check in with me about my plans, answer any questions, and give suggestions. Even better, they listened with great interest each evening as I gave the details of my day. It couldn't have been more perfect; I stayed with the nicest people, right near the city center, and still had the flexibility to do everything I wanted.

Best Moments (Excluding Golf) of the Trip

I'll go through my trip chronologically and recall the highlights. First off--and I could make a new section for this--the weather was phenomenal. We all know image painted by stereotypical Scottish weather, but I experienced little to none of it. There had been intense rain and flooding the week before I arrived, and it was pouring when I made my way to Lauren and Ian's place on Wednesday night. But from Thursday onward, it didn't rain a drop. Thursday morning was spectacular, Friday was cloudy and windy but dry, Saturday's clouds lifted and it was gorgeous by noon, and Sunday was the best day of all--genuinely warm. The perfect weather definitely contributed to my overall enjoyment of Scotland. So, here we go with some highlights--photos are at the bottom.

• On my first morning (Thursday), I took the bus heading east to Gullane for my round of golf. The ride alone was a memory I'll not soon forget. First came the sights of Arthur's Seat, gleaming golden in the morning sun. Then we passed Musselburgh Old--a golf course that claims the longest continuous play on its grounds. St. Andrews will always be the home of golf, but Musselburgh is 1A in terms of history.  Soon after passing through the town, we turned left and ran straight into the coast. At low tide, the views down to the beaches and up to the windswept dunes were spectacular. In the distance I could see Gullane Hill sitting just off the coast. That was when my heart started racing--I was minutes away from getting the the club and playing my first round of Scottish golf!
• I thoroughly enjoyed the Scottish Heritage souvenir shops that seemed to line every street. I'm sure there are some Scots who don't love the kilts and bagpipes stereotype, but for cheesy tourist shops, these stores were pretty neat. There were a lot of cashmere and wool garments with traditional plaid designs. I think I liked them because they were so different than the tourist shops I've been seeing in Germany, and though I was not looking to pick up a kilt for myself, it was still fun poking around. 
• Friday Ian and Lauren went out to dinner and the theater to celebrate her birthday, so I had the evening to roam around the Old Town--which also gave me the choice of any restaurant for dinner. After stopping by a few shops and navigating the cobblestone streets, I settled on a dinner at Deacon Brodie's on the Royal Mile. The downstairs is strictly a bar, but in the upstairs restaurant area I managed to get a window seat looking down upon the pedestrians and lights. I ventured forth and tried the haggis served with "neeps and tatties" (turnips and mashed potatoes). Though the stuff may be illegal in the U.S. for health reasons, no one has a problem with it in Scotland. And the haggis was tasty. The wild boar burger was the star of that night's show; overall an incredibly enjoyable meal.
• More food stories: after a lot of walking Saturday and a successful trip to and from St. Andrews (I'll get to that in Part Four), I was craving a mid-afternoon meal. Thankfully, I found Oink--where they serve one thing and one thing only: pulled pork sandwiches. If you're not put off by the full roast pig sitting in the window (see photo below), it's a creation to be admired. The pork was not quite as sweet as what you find in America, but with haggis and barbecue sauce, my sandwich was one of the best things I've ever eaten. For desert, I stumbled upon an Italian pastry shop. The window display (see below) was quite a bit more beautiful than Oink's, and as far as chocolate cake goes, the piece I chose was exquisit. 
• Sunday I had the whole day to roam Edinburgh and hit the attractions high on my list. It began with the Edinburgh Castle. I had views of the imposing structure each day, but it wasn't until the beautiful Sunday morning that I got to go inside the walls. It's definitely aimed at tourists, but I appreciated the vast amount of historical information offered in the many small museums and exhibits inside the castle's many rooms. My favorite parts included seeing the Crown Jewels and the Scottish History of War museum. 
• Part two of a busy Sunday: while waiting for my bus to get out to Tynecastle Stadium for a Hearts FC match, I saw the Sir Walter Scott Monument down the street. I figured I could climb up the steps, get some photos, and climb back down, within fifteen minutes or so. It wasn't quite so easy, as the spiral staircase became narrower as it went upwards. I reached the second highest platform easily, but then I ran into a logjam going up the final stretch. The steps were so narrow that it was impossible for anyone going down to pass. Twice we nearly reached the top before having to back our way down. One the third attempt I made it. Though I only spent a minute up there, the views were worth it. 
• I raced back down the steps to catch the bus headed out to the stadium. I wouldn't say I was joining a flood of people going to the game, but there were plenty of fans sporting the maroon and white colors. Hearts is one of the more famous Scottish clubs, but compared to Celtic and Rangers they're not quite on the same level. The game was a lot of fun. The small stadium was probably two-thirds full; they announced 11,500 in attendance. The Motherwell fans apparently don't travel well, because their section was nearly empty. Hearts bagged a beautiful goal off a long left-footed strike from the outside back, and though the game was uptempo and entertaining for the rest of the time, no more goals were scored. I sat in the middle of the Hearts supporters right behind the net and loved the view for the whole match.
• My last and possibly favorite memory from Edinburgh came on that glorious Sunday afternoon. I mentioned Arthur's Seat earlier; after seeing the rocky hill on the first morning, I knew I had to climb it. A near staircase zigzags up the hill, due to the immense number of hikers. I started on the west and probably steepest side, but in no time I was near the top. To my left were the Crags of Salisbury; past them, the city of Edinburgh and the castle rising from the streets. The valley created between the Crags and Arthur's Seat offered an excellent view out towards the ocean and the Firth of Forth. I chatted with locals and visitors alike at the top, all enjoying the sun and the views. I could see the castle, the stadium, and out to North Berwick. It was cool looking back on my four days from the highest point in Edinburgh. 

Deacon Brodie's Restaurant

Oink's hog roast--they close up for the day once the pig is gone!

Some fantastic pastries and cakes

Large cannon at the Edinburgh Castle

Sir Walter Scott Monument--287 steps to the top

From the top of the Sir Walter Scott Monument--the Balmoral to the left,
Waverley Train Station below, and Arthur's Seat in the back left.

Hearts FC match at Tynecastle Stadium

Arthur's Seat

Salisbury Crags, the city to the left, ocean to the right

At the top of Arthur's Seat

Click here for all of my photos from Scotland.