A Look Back on My Return North, From My New Home in Hamden CT

It was barely two weeks ago that I completed the final miles of my road trip. Exiting off of I-87 and heading west, then finally passing Jiminy Peak, Five Corners, and Mt. Greylock, I knew my time on the road was up. Departing Williamstown six weeks earlier in bitter cold with the promise of a month of Florida warmth felt so long ago, yet here I was arriving back home even before winter had blown its final breath. 

It's difficult to compare my Germany adventure to my road trip, because they were so very different. In Germany, I had the time and structure in place to take things slowly--to not only observe but learn; to not only meet people but build relationships that will last a life time. In my solo excursion down south and back, I took things at a faster pace--attempting to squeeze in as many experiences as time would allow. My focus was different, too. The South is a whole new world compared to New England, but at the same time, it's still America. There's no language barrier, no new system of government or social structure, and no thrill of being in Europe. I didn't have the desire to go out of my way to look at a church or a historical monument. Instead, I was interested in discovering a new golf course; visiting family, friends, or friends of friends; and getting a feel for the broad spectrum of life in a different part of my own country. And after accomplishing all of this, along with the many hours spent in the drivers seat of the Malibu, I arrived home, again. 

This time, it was much easier to answer the question, "How was Florida?" When I was asked the same thing about Germany, I rarely knew where to start. But most people in Williamstown are more familiar with Florida than anywhere in Europe. I could get by with something along the lines of: "The weather was gorgeous; I played a lot of golf; I spent a lot of time driving; it was a lot of fun." And above all, it was a ton of fun--certainly not a bad way to spend six weeks of winter. 

A Few Occurrences While Driving Home

With Dudleyite Rich Maxwell

I cannot be finished with my road trip without writing a bit about my trip home. Five days of slowly decreasing temperatures and a few notable stops later, I reached Williamstown from Dunedin, FL. I took a different and more direct route than on my way down, stopping to see family friends instead of buddies in college. My first destination was Seabrook Island to see a longtime Dudleyite Rich Maxwell. Though I wish I had time for golf on Seabrook (or on next door Kiawah Island), it was still a gorgeous place to stay. And I did find time for a final round of golf the next day in North Carolina, when I drove slightly out of my way to play a course called Tobacco Road. It was a unique course to say the least, and though I'm glad I don't have to play that style of golf every day, trying my hand at the extreme layout that is "the Road" was a ton of fun.

My favorite stop was in Washington D.C. I bypassed D.C. on my way down, but no East coast road trip would be complete without a visit to our nation's capital. I visited to see Charlie and Martha Johnson and received the bonus of seeing the Capitol. Charlie Johnson served an incredible tenure as the Parliamentarian of the House of Representatives. He worked in the Capitol building every day, and a quick glance at his "wall of fame" at their home in Bethesda, MD reveals his connection to the most powerful political figures of this country. Though he retired in the mid-2000s, he still has a small office in the basement of the building and still has access that few even dream of. My arrival included no visitor parking or tourist entrance; instead, I parked in the lot reserved for employees and "special guests" and got to sneak in one of the side doors, with Charlie leading the way, of course. It's an incredible place. I'm as big of a fan of American history as anyone, so I enjoyed walking around and seeing statues and paintings that triggered bits of knowledge stored up in my brain. But I won't go into any detail; simply walking where thousands of instrumental politicians have worked, debated, and compromised is the most important part of the experience.

With Charlie Johnson in Bethesda, MD

Getting a tour from Charlie Johnson does have its perks. Not only did Charlie introduce me to someone in every hallway, but he also made sure to take me to places where normal tours do not go. The photo above is the view from a private balcony on the front of the Capitol looking over the National Mall. The offices that have access to this balcony were property of the Speaker of the House and his cohorts. I know Charlie would like to think he set it up, but just a minute later when he was pointing out the Speaker's office, there was John Boehner walking towards us. Politics aside, it was neat to see someone like that in person. I could tell immediately that he really did respect Charlie, and when I was introduced, he took the extra second to say, "Hi Tom, John Boehner, nice to meet you." Of course I knew who he was from the second I saw him, but his humbleness made him really likable.

It was a tremendous stay with the Johnsons, and the next day, after a stop at the National Cathedral for a few pictures and a quick lunch at Potbelly's, I was off to Delaware to see the other Johnsons for my final stop before heading home. Drew is Charlie and Martha's son, and seeing Drew and his family one more time was a cool way to end the trip. I stood on the beach that day at sunset with Drew and Luke (a soon-to-be Cub at Camp Dudley) and watched the surfers in their wetsuits riding wave after crashing wave. It was beautiful there on the Delaware coast. I'd been going non-stop for weeks, and in that moment, I found it fitting to slow down and reflect on my trip. Phase two of the gap year was nearly over. Though nothing will ever compare to my time in Germany, six weeks on the road were about as good as it gets.

The Delaware shoreline at sunset

The Quintessential German Christmas Town

A Few Notes on Rothenburg ob der Tauber

It's Christmas Season here in Germany, and with my limited travel days remaining, I've planned my trips for the Christmas Markets and December scenery. While there are hundreds of Christmas Markets in Germany, all steeped in tradition, there may be no town more fitting for a winter carnival than Rothenburg ob der Tauber. 

I'm going to let the pictures do a lot of talking, but first, a bit about what I've discovered about the town.  Rothenburg hasn't changed much in half a millenium. The walled town kept its fortifications up and never really bothered to change the interior. Though the town has expanded outside the walls, stepping inside is as close as I've come to time travel. The buildings are uniformly unique--all constructed with half-timbered framework and pasteled siding. Cobblestones make the going interesting, though when the December snow fills in the cracks, walking the streets is even more fun. 

As I left home in the early hours of the morning a week ago, I was greeted by the first real snow of the year. Two inches covered the roads and coated the trees. The ride down was like racing through a black and white scrapbook--one of my favorite train journeys to date. 

I spent the day exploring the streets and snapping photos from covered walkways on top of the town walls. Each shop offered a new souvenir or local delicacy, and though the stores looked ancient from the outside, the insides offered all of the modern facets of the vibrant German lifestyle. The town's Christmas Market occupied the main square near the Town Hall and biggest church, and though not as massive as Frankfurt's or as lively as Heidelberg's, I found nearly every stall to be special. The style of the market certainly matched the atmosphere of the snowy town. From the top of the Rathaus Tower I could see the entire town, its roofs covered in snow. The perfect place to be during December.

With that, here are some photos. These should summarize Rothenburg ob der Tauber and my snowy experience there.

Rathaus Platz with the Christmas Market stalls surrounding the tree.

A decorative display in the market.

The picturesque from the Rathaus Tower, looking down on the centuries-old
houses of the walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

The year-round Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village--but only at it's best in December.

One of many idyllic Christmas sights inside Kathe Wohlfahrt.

The town wall, covered and walkable. To give a sense of size, I walked
ninety percent of it in just over half-an-hour, stopping for photos, of course! 

A perfect view from the wall. It always seems a church dominates the view,
and here the half-timbered houses make the sight even more impressive.

Looking down on the forested valley on the west side of town, which
marks the border between Bavaria and Baden-Wurttemberg. 

Some incredible buildings, the highest being the Rathaus Tower. 

Traditional German nutcracker dolls, found here in every color, shape, and size.

Click here to see all of my photos from Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

Familiar Travels: Highlights From A Week With Mom & Dad

In my previous post, I wrote about the joy that was spending six days with my parents here in Germany. It was a tremendous effort on their part, and I was so proud to share my new home with them. I also featured a guest post from my mom on the blog, and she touched on just about everything that made the time together so special. Both posts allude to some of our travels, but I haven't divulged full details about our jam packed days and eye-opening trips. 

I haven't heard from my parents what their absolute favorite part of the trip was, but I'm going to venture out and offer my own highlights. I'm sure their opinions aren't too far off. The list goes in chronological order, and while there is a whole lot I can't fit in, these will make a pretty decent summary of our adventures. 

Monday

The delightful displays in my favorite Bad Homburg chocolate shop

As we walked from Kirdorf into the Bad Homburg Altstadt on the first evening, the grey skies opened up to unveil a glorious sunset. Though the sheer excitement of having them in Germany with me was the ultimate highlight, our best stop was at Chocolate Plus--a one-of-a-kind handcrafted chocolate shop near the center of the city. I definitely get my love of chocolate from my mom, but at store like this one, we all drooling over the chocolates and hot drinks. 

Tuesday

On a day where we shared our time between Frankfurt and Mainz--the two closest big cities--the grey skies couldn't stop us from seeing and eating to our hearts' content. My favorite stop in Mainz was our lunch spot, a brewery called Eisgrub-Brau. Located in an old vaulted ice cellar with arched ceilings, the pub served big plates of traditional German food and offered a warm atmosphere. My parents couldn't go to Germany and not try Bratwurst and Sauerkraut!  

My Dad's first real German meal

The highlight from Frankfurt was a new adventure for me. After a lovely dinner of Flammkuchen and soup on Frankfurt's Burger Strasse, we met Nina and Simon for an evening at the English Theater. The small performance center does, as you guessed, plays and musicals in English. We happened to see a musical called "Sweet Charity." I'd never heard of it, but without going into the details, I found it to be incredibly entertaining. I never really appreciated professional stage acting until I saw "Death of a Salesman" on Broadway last spring with my AP English class. While the English Theater in Frankfurt is a little different than Broadway, I enjoyed the play start to finish. Heck, I haven't seen a musical by anyone older than high school students since I saw "The Lion King" half-a-dozen years ago. "Sweet Charity" capped off a busy and successful Tuesday. 

Wednesday

As I mentioned in my last post, we were able to visit Accadis and spend some time with the head P.E. teacher Darryl Cromier. I have spent a lot of time helping Darryl in his sports classes and we've developed a bond that I know will continue even after I leave. When I visited with my parents on Wednesday morning, he took his whole break period to talk with us and give a tour of the school. They got to see how fortunate I am to have landed at Accadis and that I get to spend my days with Darryl. By the end of our tour, they loved the school, and I was even prouder to be a volunteer there. 

Thursday

We left for Heidelberg in foggy skies, but as soon as we drove south of Frankfurt, the sun started peeking out. Soon there was plenty of blue, and by the time we reached our destination, there was not a cloud in the sky. Though it was about thirty degrees colder than my last visit in early September, the clear blue skies hadn't changed a bit. 

Panorama from the Heidelberg Castle in late afternoon

It's impossible to pick a favorite moment from the day, since our stops ranged from incredible stores along the Hauptstrasse to five different Christmas Markets to unforgettable breweries and eateries. I took my second trip to the famous Heidelberg Schoss (castle), this time via the steepest railway I've ever been on. We walked out to a lookout near the castle and enjoyed the full scope and beauty of the city in the orange sunset. 

I'm going to write about the different Christmas Markets I visit in another post, but for now, I loved the atmosphere and stalls in all of the Heidelberg markets. They gave wandering around the Altstadt a purpose, and between our meals we filled the time with stall-gazing and gift buying. I loved Heidelberg during my first visit, but that was back when I didn't know anything about German travel. Coming back with my parents confirmed my appreciation for the city and all of the big and not-so-big details that make it special.

Friday

I wrote earlier about our highly anticipated trip to Cologne. I'd never been to to city besides a transfer at the train station, but even the few glimpses I got left me yearning to spend a day there. We took the scenic route up--over the Taunus hills and down to Koblenz where we hit the Rhine. From there we chose the low road, which wound its way along the wide river. We saw the quaint German towns, steep hills lined with rows and rows of grapevines, and the occasional castle or palace. 

Cologne itself was a treat, despite the only rain of the entire week. There isn't the ancient feel of Heidelberg, but the tradeoff is incredible shopping streets, unique museums, and plenty of sights. One of the most jaw-dropping of these was the Hohenzollern Bridge and its locks. It's become a tradition for partners to engrave their names on a lock and attach it to the bridge's fencing. There's not an inch of space, and the bridge stretches 400 meters over the Rhine! 

And of course, there's the Dom. It was the single most impressive thing I've seen in Germany. I can say all I want about its size, design, and omnipresence, but it really has to seen to be believed. Considering that every inch of the cathedral was carved, sculpted, and arranged down to the tiniest details, I understand why it took so long to complete. (There were long breaks in the 600 years of building, though). I wish I had known a little bit more about the stained glass pictures and narratives described in the Dom's artwork, but at the very least, the time we spent there was unforgettable. 

Each arched doorway is decorated with the most intricate stone carvings

Lastly, despite some transportation issues, we reached the FC Koln stadium for an evening soccer match versus Bochum. Everyone came out for the Friday night football fest, and the big stadium was mostly filled by the 40,000 in attendance. We got to see a few goals, which each came with raucous celebration. I've now been to three games (in Stuttgart, Edinburgh, and Cologne) and the feel in the Koln stadium was the most fun. The match finished 3-1 to the home side, and though we got home late, it was well worth the effort. 

Saturday

I wrote about one of Saturday's highlights in my previous post, that being my soccer match. It was a fun game for my parents (and the whole Judson family) to see, and my teammates made me feel like it was my night. 

For our final evening together, we joined Nina and Simon for a goose dinner at a cozy restaurant in Bad Homburg's Altstadt. I'd seen hundreds of half-timbered buildings but had never been inside one. The inside looked just as old as the outside, but in an elegant way that made our final dinner special. The goose was one of the best meals I've had in Germany. Though we didn't celebrate Thanksgiving with turkey, the goose was a delectable substitute. 

Those were the moments I enjoyed most about the week: when all of us knew it was late in the evening, but we simply couldn't stop talking. Even though our families haven't spent too much time together, it feels like we've all been friends for years. I'm very lucky to have Nina and Simon looking out for me, and it certainly makes it easier on my parents. Still, there's nothing better than being with family. It was a week none of us will forget. 

Click here for all of the photos from my week in Germany with my parents.

Bamberg: A True Bavarian City

I've finished most of my big travels, but with plenty of time left in Germany and some days still available on my Eurail train pass, it's time for a series of day trips. This past Friday, with the best weather November has offered so far, I rose early to make the trip to Bamberg. Located in Bavaria's northwest region called Franconia, Bamberg is a beautifully preserved city that exemplifies the German and more specifically Bavarian way of life.

Would you rather visit a city with enough Medieval buildings to merit a UNSECO World Heritage Site distinction, or a city featuring the most breweries per capita in the world? Fortunately for me, there was no decision necessary.

Starting With the Architecture... 

Even though Bamberg is only slightly bigger than Bad Homburg, it feels like a real city. Perhaps it's because the Altstadt is really an island in the Regnitz River. Everything is compact; the jumbled streets and riverfront houses squeeze into the river valley below the seven hills of Bamberg. I managed to capture two of my favorite photos of my entire time in Germany as I wandered through the Altstadt.

The first photo is of the Old Town Hall (Alt Rathaus). It's incredible how the half-timbered section of the building hangs over the river, and equally as impressive are the colorful murals and baroque sculpture on the sides. Walking down the river only a hundred meters or so, I found myself staring across at the most picturesque riverfront scene I've ever seen. It's no surprise that this stretch of town is called "Little Venice." The panorama I shot here is one of my favorite photos I've ever taken. (Click the photo for a bigger version). 

Though it was a quick-stop-here, quick-stop-there type of day, I was wowed by the city. The sights and atmosphere alone make me want to return. Some places have a certain timeless feel to them. Though I love United States history, we're lacking a bit on the age front. Everything in America tends to grow and expand, while a place like Bamberg feels like it has and never will change. I know I'm exaggerating, but it's the only way to describe the city.

The baroque-style New Palace; it's only been around for four hundred years. 

Bamberg's Brewing Tradition

I promised to get to the part about Bamberg's brewing tradition. First a few thoughts: almost all German beer fits into either the pilsner or weissbier categories. While I've found some great versions of those styles, the average German beer can be pretty underwhelming. Though Germans brew dozens of kinds of beer, it's often difficult to find variety.

Schlenkerla: Rauchbier has been brewed here for centuries

Getting to sample a city or region's beer is an awesome perk to traveling within the country. And what better place to stop than Bamberg. I've enjoyed learning about brewing history as much and if not more  than sampling drinks, so preparing for my Bamberg trip was a lot of fun. The city houses nine breweries, many of which sit in the long established quarters of the Old Town. In alphabetical order: Ambrausianum, Fassla, Greifenklau, Kaiserdom, Keesmann, Klosterbrau, Mahr's Brau, Spezial, and Schlenkerla. With so many options, the styles available cover the entire scope of German beers.

Brauerei zum Spezial: Bamberg's other Rauchbier brewer

I loved the unobtrusive building fronts and classic interiors. Small rooms, low ceilings, views of the tap from everywhere, stained glass windows--the restaurants fit their purpose beautifully. They connect to the main brewery operation, making supporting the local industry irresistible. And the breweries only sell their product within the confines of the city.

The city is any beer lover's paradise, and whats more, it's the home of an obscure and perhaps polarizing type of brew: Rauchbier. Literally, "smoke beer," it's deliciously unlike any other beer. Only Schlenkerla and Spezial produce the style. Some may be disgusted by the smoky aroma and slight bacon flavor, but I was not one of them.

A Few Thoughts About Bavaria

Bavaria is just a little different from the rest of the country. I would be lying if I said that the culture and lifestyle of, say, Frankfurt, does not differ from that of Hamburg or Berlin, but Bavaria and it's capitol of Munich stand out. It's kind of like the Texas of Germany, except with incredible scenery, picturesque old cities, and a strong beer culture. I can't really comment on Texas, though. 

I've been told that the people in Germany's largest state consider themselves to be Bavarians, not Germans. There's a certain laid back feeling that I get in Bavaria. The people seem to be casual, friendly, and liberal in their politics and the amount of beer they consume. 

The beer culture is apparent, even in a country where beer is the national drink. It's possible to get Bavarian beers all over Germany, but the true gems have to be sought out. That's why I will never see a Mahr's Brau beer being sold in Frankfurt. It's also why travel and beer in Germany go hand in hand. 

We'll see if I make it back to Bavaria during this trip. I'd never pass up the chance to go back, and I know I will return eventually. I've been to the most popular destinations and seen some of the best sights. Munich, Nuremberg, and Bamberg are all places where I would be happy to spend a week exploring the little details that are impossible to catch in a day or weekend trip. But for now, I've enjoyed every hour I've spent in Germany's biggest and possibly my favorite state. 

Future Teammates in Nuremberg

I'm catching up on posting about my October travels; here's the story of my trip to Nuremberg on the last weekend of the month. 

I haven't spent much time with my future Middlebury teammate Kirk Horton, but it feels like we've been friends for a long time. By coincidence we both ended up in Germany when we decided to take gap years, and both of us are playing soccer here. Next September we'll join the freshmen ranks at Middlebury and fight for roles on the soccer team. I was so excited to make the connection with Kirk, and our back and forth discussions throughout our time in Germany have been fun. More fun, however, was the chance to meet up at Oktoberfest. And best yet, I was able to travel my last free weekend in October to meet him in Nuremberg.

Half-timbered houses in Nuremberg's Altstadt

Kirk met me at the Nuremberg Hauptbahnhof late on Friday afternoon, and we made our way back to Furth where he lived. Furth is about double the size of Bad Homburg, and although there are plenty of things to do in the small city, Kirk said he makes the short trip to Nuremberg very often. He lives in an apartment on the sixth floor of a building--not an ideal location, but at least a huge grocery store sits across the street. While waiting for his roommate Wagner to return, we set out for a walk along the trails of a nearby park. It was the perfect chance to catch up, as the craziness of our Oktoberfest meeting wasn't ideal for conversation. I finally got the full explanation of Kirk's situation in Germany. He lives with Wagner, who is Brazilian but resides in Connecticut. They have connected with other Americans through Kirk's program, but they all play for different clubs. Kirk used this program to get situated in an apartment and with a soccer team, whereas I used my host family to communicate with my club.

By the time we got back it was dark, and we realized that with daylight savings coming soon, we would both have to get used the early nightfall. I soon met Wagner, and the three of us had an excellent evening in Nuremberg which included high quality burgers at Chong's restaurant. Despite the name, the place was as American as it gets. Later we met two Adidas employees--one who lives in Germany and the other who traveled from the States. Nuremberg is home to both Adidas and Puma--as the story goes, two brothers got in a fight and started rival companies in the city. Both of the guys we met have had the opportunity to travel the world recruiting players to wear Adidas gear, searching for the next Messi. It seemed like an awesome job.

First snow flurries of the year, though many trees still have their golden leaves

Nuremberg has an extensive Old Town. As we walked through the cobblestone streets the next day amid snow flurries, I felt the slight whispering of Christmas. The markets in Nuremberg were a highlight, and I can only imagine what it's like when the Christmas Market time arrives. We all ate the traditional "three bratwursts on a roll" and some Bavarian style cookies. Bavaria truly feels different than the rest of Germany, and I'll explain more when I write about my recent trip to Bamberg.

A large market square in the center of Nuremberg

We spent a good chunk of time up at the Nuremberg Castle, which looks out over the city. It wasn't as spectacular as the views from the Heidelberg or Edinburgh castles, but it was beautiful on the snowy afternoon.

There was one part of the day, though, that I will remember for a long time. We tuned into the Middlebury versus Amherst NESCAC quarterfinal soccer game, and together watched our future team get crushed. As Midd's chances to mount a comeback dwindled, we started talking about the future--our future. Next year, we'll be out there; the next game that Middlebury soccer plays, our names will be on the roster. And we will be able to say to each other, "We were together in Germany when Middlebury last played--now it's our turn." 

It's the greatest of coincidences that we both get to experience Germany and European soccer. Not many teammates can say that they hung out in Europe before they ever played on the same field or attended the same school. Writing this makes me excited about my time at Middlebury. If my other teammates on the soccer team are as nice as Kirk, it will be an unbelievable career.

Click here to see all of my photos from Nuremberg. I apologize for not getting any pictures with Kirk. I guess those will have to wait until we see each other next--at Middlebury, most likely!

Scotland Trip, Part One: An Overview

I have just completed my biggest European adventure of my four months here. Up until last week, all of my travels were limited to Germany. Limited is not the right word, for in Germany alone the possibilities for travel are endless. Still, I wanted to do something a little bolder, a little grander. It was over a month ago when I conceived the idea of connecting with Ian and Lauren Clausen in Edinburgh. When they gave me the thumbs-up for a visit, I immediately began planning and dreaming about the trip. 

Airplane view

Arthur's Seat

Scotland is a beautiful country with plenty of sights and things to do, but I bought the plane ticket for more than just sight-seeing reasons. Yes, Scotland is the home of golf, and as an golf enthusiast--more specifically a golf history and architecture enthusiast--I planned my trip around the golf. I am breaking up my adventures into what will most likely be four posts. In this first one, I will refrain from talking about my rounds at Gullane (Part Two) and North Berwick (Part Three) and my day at St. Andrews (Part Four). I could write an essay about any new course I play, so when it comes to historic Scottish links, I at least need to dedicate a blog post to each. 

In this segment, I will give an overview of the trip, write about the city of Edinburgh, talk about my wonderful hosts, and conclude with a list of highlights other than the golf. And there's plenty to write about. Even if I wasn't focusing my trip on golf, I still would have had a blast in Edinburgh. I'm thankful I had time to explore the city and also spend evenings with my hosts. So here we go.

Edinburgh

The biggest and most vibrant city in Scotland, Edinburgh and its half-a-million people certainly enjoy a special location. Steeped in history, the city unfurls in all directions from the Royal Mile--a pedestrian street where the cobblestones climb upwards towards the Edinburgh Castle. Unlike all of the German cities I've visited, Edinburgh has plenty of hills. The castle is perched high up on a rocky mound and looks all the more impressive because of it. The Royal Mile separates the Old Town to the south from the New Town to the north. The windy streets of the Old Town feature many tourist attractions, old architecture, plenty of fantastic shops and restaurants, and a bit of a labyrinth feel with all of the closes (covered alleyways) leading down from the main streets. 

Edinburgh Castle

The New Town was considered an architectural and planning masterpiece when it was constructed in the late eighteenth century (and they call it the "New" Town!). It helped rescue the Old Town from filth and overpopulation, and now offers some of the best restaurants and shopping in the city. There is also a beautiful park in the shadow of the castle, as well as the Sir Walter Scott Monument (which I'll get to later) and the famous Balmoral Hotel. 

In the east sits Holyrood Park and and old volcano dubbed Arthur's Seat (which I'll also get to later). Leith is the district of the city on the shore, and going east from Edinburgh is East Lothian--the "golf coast." 

My Hosts, Ian and Lauren Clausen

Ian and Lauren were so gracious in taking me into their home for five nights. From Indiana, they married after college and moved to Scotland where Ian is finishing up his Ph.D in theology. They both love the city, but the plan is definitely to move back to the States within a year or two. They are expecting their first child this winter, however, which may complicate things a bit! I got the contact from Erica Maker--cross country coach at Williams and wife of Mike Maker, the Ephs' basketball coach. Ian is Erica's younger brother, and while Mike and Erica were up at Dudley with their young baby Jack this summer, we got talking about the chance for me to visit Scotland. I am so glad I made the effort; Ian and Lauren were great hosts and incredibly nice people.

They made sure I ate well, and most evenings I returned from an exhausting day to find a delicious dinner nearly ready. Even though I did all of the sightseeing and travel alone, they made sure to check in with me about my plans, answer any questions, and give suggestions. Even better, they listened with great interest each evening as I gave the details of my day. It couldn't have been more perfect; I stayed with the nicest people, right near the city center, and still had the flexibility to do everything I wanted.

Best Moments (Excluding Golf) of the Trip

I'll go through my trip chronologically and recall the highlights. First off--and I could make a new section for this--the weather was phenomenal. We all know image painted by stereotypical Scottish weather, but I experienced little to none of it. There had been intense rain and flooding the week before I arrived, and it was pouring when I made my way to Lauren and Ian's place on Wednesday night. But from Thursday onward, it didn't rain a drop. Thursday morning was spectacular, Friday was cloudy and windy but dry, Saturday's clouds lifted and it was gorgeous by noon, and Sunday was the best day of all--genuinely warm. The perfect weather definitely contributed to my overall enjoyment of Scotland. So, here we go with some highlights--photos are at the bottom.

• On my first morning (Thursday), I took the bus heading east to Gullane for my round of golf. The ride alone was a memory I'll not soon forget. First came the sights of Arthur's Seat, gleaming golden in the morning sun. Then we passed Musselburgh Old--a golf course that claims the longest continuous play on its grounds. St. Andrews will always be the home of golf, but Musselburgh is 1A in terms of history.  Soon after passing through the town, we turned left and ran straight into the coast. At low tide, the views down to the beaches and up to the windswept dunes were spectacular. In the distance I could see Gullane Hill sitting just off the coast. That was when my heart started racing--I was minutes away from getting the the club and playing my first round of Scottish golf!
• I thoroughly enjoyed the Scottish Heritage souvenir shops that seemed to line every street. I'm sure there are some Scots who don't love the kilts and bagpipes stereotype, but for cheesy tourist shops, these stores were pretty neat. There were a lot of cashmere and wool garments with traditional plaid designs. I think I liked them because they were so different than the tourist shops I've been seeing in Germany, and though I was not looking to pick up a kilt for myself, it was still fun poking around. 
• Friday Ian and Lauren went out to dinner and the theater to celebrate her birthday, so I had the evening to roam around the Old Town--which also gave me the choice of any restaurant for dinner. After stopping by a few shops and navigating the cobblestone streets, I settled on a dinner at Deacon Brodie's on the Royal Mile. The downstairs is strictly a bar, but in the upstairs restaurant area I managed to get a window seat looking down upon the pedestrians and lights. I ventured forth and tried the haggis served with "neeps and tatties" (turnips and mashed potatoes). Though the stuff may be illegal in the U.S. for health reasons, no one has a problem with it in Scotland. And the haggis was tasty. The wild boar burger was the star of that night's show; overall an incredibly enjoyable meal.
• More food stories: after a lot of walking Saturday and a successful trip to and from St. Andrews (I'll get to that in Part Four), I was craving a mid-afternoon meal. Thankfully, I found Oink--where they serve one thing and one thing only: pulled pork sandwiches. If you're not put off by the full roast pig sitting in the window (see photo below), it's a creation to be admired. The pork was not quite as sweet as what you find in America, but with haggis and barbecue sauce, my sandwich was one of the best things I've ever eaten. For desert, I stumbled upon an Italian pastry shop. The window display (see below) was quite a bit more beautiful than Oink's, and as far as chocolate cake goes, the piece I chose was exquisit. 
• Sunday I had the whole day to roam Edinburgh and hit the attractions high on my list. It began with the Edinburgh Castle. I had views of the imposing structure each day, but it wasn't until the beautiful Sunday morning that I got to go inside the walls. It's definitely aimed at tourists, but I appreciated the vast amount of historical information offered in the many small museums and exhibits inside the castle's many rooms. My favorite parts included seeing the Crown Jewels and the Scottish History of War museum. 
• Part two of a busy Sunday: while waiting for my bus to get out to Tynecastle Stadium for a Hearts FC match, I saw the Sir Walter Scott Monument down the street. I figured I could climb up the steps, get some photos, and climb back down, within fifteen minutes or so. It wasn't quite so easy, as the spiral staircase became narrower as it went upwards. I reached the second highest platform easily, but then I ran into a logjam going up the final stretch. The steps were so narrow that it was impossible for anyone going down to pass. Twice we nearly reached the top before having to back our way down. One the third attempt I made it. Though I only spent a minute up there, the views were worth it. 
• I raced back down the steps to catch the bus headed out to the stadium. I wouldn't say I was joining a flood of people going to the game, but there were plenty of fans sporting the maroon and white colors. Hearts is one of the more famous Scottish clubs, but compared to Celtic and Rangers they're not quite on the same level. The game was a lot of fun. The small stadium was probably two-thirds full; they announced 11,500 in attendance. The Motherwell fans apparently don't travel well, because their section was nearly empty. Hearts bagged a beautiful goal off a long left-footed strike from the outside back, and though the game was uptempo and entertaining for the rest of the time, no more goals were scored. I sat in the middle of the Hearts supporters right behind the net and loved the view for the whole match.
• My last and possibly favorite memory from Edinburgh came on that glorious Sunday afternoon. I mentioned Arthur's Seat earlier; after seeing the rocky hill on the first morning, I knew I had to climb it. A near staircase zigzags up the hill, due to the immense number of hikers. I started on the west and probably steepest side, but in no time I was near the top. To my left were the Crags of Salisbury; past them, the city of Edinburgh and the castle rising from the streets. The valley created between the Crags and Arthur's Seat offered an excellent view out towards the ocean and the Firth of Forth. I chatted with locals and visitors alike at the top, all enjoying the sun and the views. I could see the castle, the stadium, and out to North Berwick. It was cool looking back on my four days from the highest point in Edinburgh. 

Deacon Brodie's Restaurant

Oink's hog roast--they close up for the day once the pig is gone!

Some fantastic pastries and cakes

Large cannon at the Edinburgh Castle

Sir Walter Scott Monument--287 steps to the top

From the top of the Sir Walter Scott Monument--the Balmoral to the left,
Waverley Train Station below, and Arthur's Seat in the back left.

Hearts FC match at Tynecastle Stadium

Arthur's Seat

Salisbury Crags, the city to the left, ocean to the right

At the top of Arthur's Seat

Click here for all of my photos from Scotland.

Life is Good When Life is Simple

Three Days in Karlsruhe and the Black Forest

For the second leg of my five-day journey, Lukas Ebeler and I jumped on a train heading south to Karlsruhe. The city is home to the Karlsruhe Institute of Technology, where Lukas's older brother Moritz and a close friend from Hannover named Leo study. Exhausted from the previous evening and early wake up, I lugged my suitcase through the city--the handle had fallen off the night before. We met Leo and went to his apartment where we would be staying for the next three nights. I soon found out that Leo was a master at fixing things, and his apartment had all of the tools one could ever need. Within five minutes he pulled out a drill for me, and I worked on making new holes for the suitcase handle. So far my craftsmanship has held up!

Leo was the nicest of hosts. A long time friend of Lukas's, he wanted to make sure we enjoyed ourselves--and the food. We explored the campus a bit on the afternoon of our arrival and snacked on Doner Pizza (two of Germany's favorite fast-foods combined into one). It was the type of slow day I needed, and it was especially nice to go home in the evening and cook dinner for ourselves. Lukas and I did the shopping, mainly several packs of Maultaschen--a mix between a dumpling and ravioli. Sliced up and sauteed with onions, bacon, and cheese, it was delicious. 

In front of the Karlsruhe Palace with Lukas and Leo

I got to meet some of Leo's university friends. Jimbo and his Italian girlfriend came over after dinner (the only way for them to communicate is using English) with a big Italian salami for everyone to share. The next morning I met Connor and squared off agains him in Fifa. Let's just say I was a bit rusty. 

Friday we cooked a feast for brunch and slowly eased into the day. The skies were threatening rain, but we decided to make an attempt to see the royal palace. The city was planned so that the palace was the hub, with the main streets fanning out in a circle. Though it was raining by the time we finished our walk, we still managed to see the sights and snap a few pictures.

By far the highlight of my trip, however, was the hike on Saturday. We left on an S-Bahn heading out of the city, and soon the hills of the Black Forest rose around us. The hike was a fifteen kilometer, A-to-B day trip, from the small town of Gernsbach to the slightly smaller town of Bad Herrenalb. Thankfully I  had borrowed a pair of boots from Leo, because soon we left the streets and were moving upwards. After a few breaks for kohlrabi and some photos, we reached the summit. It was a solid effort of almost eight kilometers, and we were all pleased to see that the restaurant on top had not yet closed for the winter.

Looking down on the small Black Forest towns

Walking into the warm restaurant, sitting down next to the wood stove, and ordering some Black Forest Ham felt that much better after the hike up. We took a long break and enjoyed the food, playing cards all the while. It was hard to get up to leave, but we wanted to make it back to Karlsruhe to go to dinner at Lukas's brother's flat. The walk down wasn't quite as scenic as the one up. Upon reaching our final destination of Bad Herrenalb, though, we encountered a sight that made us all stop and stare. The quaint and old-fashioned spa town featured a church dating back to the thirteenth century. Outside the church was an archway, and on top of it grew a tree that must have been forty feet high. The roots ran down either side of the arch, all the way to the ground. The idea, the design, the execution--all flawless.

Never seen anything like it--the tree growing
from the top of the arch in Bad Herrenalb

A tree growing from the top of an arch? Just one of the little details that my extended stay has allowed me to discover. Those are the best moments--when something makes you say "wow." And more times than not, it's a little detail that I would have easily missed had I just been city-hopping around Europe. I am trying to see as much as I can, but the memories I take home will undoubtedly come from those times when I slowed down and found something simple to appreciate.

Lukas and Leo were so nice to me over the few days we spent together. I loved my stay in Karlsruhe, and I am glad we decided to go for the hike--no reason to sit around on a beautiful Saturday! It's getting a bit colder now, and rainy too. If that was the last glorious day of autumn, then at least we made the most of the warm air and beautiful German countryside.

Stuttgart, Courtesy of Blake Little

I'm a bit behind on posting about my travels, but I hope to catch up before I leave for Scotland on Wednesday. Last weekend I spent two days in Stuttgart, and I can infer it’s the type of city that takes a little bit of inside information to truly appreciate. Some cities or famous locations have a handful of attractions that are impossible to miss--enough to keep uninformed tourists content for a weekend. Others, like Stuttgart, are a little different. Maybe it was because I arrived in a downpour or that the train station is undergoing major construction, but I was initially a bit unimpressed.

But then, I met my host Blake Little.

Blake is a family friend through Dudley, and he was at camp when my mom was a staff member and my uncle was a camper. Like my uncle, he went to St. Lawrence. He’s always been involved in the teaching and athletic training world, but half-a-dozen years ago he left his home state of Ohio to teach at DODS (Department of Defense School) in the north of Italy. After a successful five years there, he moved to Stuttgart and is doing the same thing in a new country.

I had never met Blake before, but within a few minutes I knew he was going to be an excellent host. When you have Dudley as a common denominator, it’s easy to become quick friends. We talked as we made our way back to his (awesome) flat, and thought it was still raining when we got there, I could tell I was in good hands for my time in the city. I was with someone who had the inside information about Stuttgart, and that made all the difference. 

A quick run through of what we did 

Traditional German architecture in Esslingen

First off we hopped on the S-Bahn heading east out of the city to visit the historical town of Esslingen no more than ten minutes away. Would I have known that the small village contained some of the most fascinating and classic examples of traditional German architecture? Blake took me down the windy cobblestone streets and beside the small canals. Vineyards covered the steep hills on either side of the town--it’s amazing how every bit of available space is utilized.

We returned for lunch at Calwer-Eck-Brau--perhaps Stuttgart’s finest microbrewery. The second-story restaurant was near the center of the city, and some fascinating interior woodwork separated the main room into distinct sections. It turned out they serve an all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays, so I filled myself with the German, and more specifically Schwaben, style food. From what I know, Stuttgart is the benefactor of Black Forest heritage, which lends itself to the region’s unique food and beverage. I, for one, really enjoyed it.

After biking through the city for a while (the clouds had separated while we were eating lunch and the sun had come out), we prepared for the evening game. Stuttgart was matched up against Bayer Leverkusen in a Bundesliga tilt--and I was going to see it! The Mercedes Benz Arena finished a long-term renovation a few years ago, and now the stadium is spectacular. There’s room for over 60,000 spectators, and while it wasn’t sold out for this match, it’s still pretty loud when 50,000 cheer for a goal. Our seats were in the upper and left section of the Cannstatter Kurve--behind the net where the true fans sit. Below us was standing room only--packed with the club’s most loyal (and inebriated) supporters. Men on platforms held microphones, megaphones, and drums; they insured that the noise did not stop for one moment.

Stuttgart currently sits near the bottom of the tables, and when Leverkusen scored a easy goal off of a goalie mistake, I wondered whether the team and the fans would let down. We found out soon after that this would not be the case. The home side earned a penalty kick and promptly buried it to tie the score at one apiece. As the cold air set in the stadium stayed warm with the energy of the fans. I must have heard the cheer "Scheisst Ein Tor! Scheisst Ein Tor! Auf Geht Stuttgart, Scheisst Ein Tor!" about a hundred times. Following halftime, Stuttgart came out and scored one of the nicer goals I have seen live. The left wing beat two defenders going down the sideline before taking it to the end-line and sliding it across for an easy finish. Though Leverkusen tied it soon after on a nice header goal, the energy remained high until the final whistle. Not a bad experience at all. I feel very fortunate that the game lined up with my trip to Stuttgart and that Blake was so willing to help with tickets.

Three-story statue at the Cannstatter Volksfest

The fun didn't just end there. It also happened that I visited during Stuttgart's Cannstatter Volksfest. The fairgrounds are located right next door to the stadium, so along with nearly every other fan in attendance, Blake and I walked over to the festival. At half the size of Oktoberfest, it feels a little less touristy. Still, the party can still get pretty wild at the second biggest of Germany's fall festivals. Blake knew one of the bands playing in a smaller tent, so we listened to them sing anything from traditional German songs to "Sweet Caroline" for an hour. It wasn't like Oktoberfest where every square inch was packed, which made walking around easier. We saw some of the bigger tents before heading away from the grounds to get dinner.

We took the S-Bahn to one of Blake's favorite pubs, which served delicious local cuisine and specialty beer brewed in the Black Forest to the south of Stuttgart. I tried Flammkuchen--the form of pizza found in Germany's southwest. It has no tomato sauce; instead, a "creme fraiche" coats the crust, with the cheese, onions, and mushrooms or meat on top. It was delicious--certainly a well earned dinner. 

Monday was all about seeing the city--from the highest points possible. Blake drove me around in the morning to both of the hill spines that frame the city. The sun was out, and it was prefect to enjoy a casual morning in a beautiful place. Blake talked as we explored, and it's that type of tour guide which I enjoy most. Blake took time to show me around and make sure I enjoyed myself. I'm finding more and more that people are willing to go out of their way to make me feel comfortable--helping me to make the most out of my time here. 

I closed out my Stuttgart trip with a hike up to the top of the train station tower. The old stone staircase spiraled upwards for ten floors. I was sweating (a lot) by the time I reached the opening to roof lookout. It was a cool way to say goodbye to the city, one which definitely made a big impact me over my short stay.